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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In addition to brake bleeding and caliper cleaning, many brake issues are from misalignment of the front end.

This is going to be based off the 06+ 600 "axle and bolt" style axle setup. Other styles will vary a little.

You will need a steering stem lift stand or another way to lift front end without pressure on the forks.

Alignment starts with fork alignment vertically. Remove the front wheel. Using the axle as a guide pin, move the right fork up or down in the triples until the two forks are aligned perfectly vertically so that the axle slides in smoothly. This later will allow the left fork to self align on the axle.

Torque top and bottom triple pinch bolts once aligned.

Set and torque clipons once aligned.


Note: the fork heights as viewed at the caps/ top triple may look uneven. This is due to slight variations in the internal assembled fork lengths.

Now install front wheel and axle. Using axle holder hex tool and torque wrench, torque axle and bolt to spec.

Install calipers, torque to spec, pump up brakes.

Drop front end off stand, and while holding brakes bounce front forks a few times. This sets the left forks position on the axle.

Lift bike back up

Check axle torque

Torque left pinch bolts.

Torque right pinch bolts.

Spin front wheel and be amazed at how free front wheel spins.
 

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If the left and right pinch bolts are tight, you can't check the axle torque. It would just seem an unnecessary step.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes you can. And should

Fine. Do it before torquing pinch bolts but after lifting bike back up.

Thing is lowering it to align left fork also puts forces on the right fork and wheel spacers where the entire assembly is indexed to. It is best to recheck it. ;).

In reality most people don't even actually "torque" the axle anyway... they use good enough as their setting. And the truth is that will work. But I'm writing this as the most proper way. Torques should be used.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For racers... the internal fork length variance is why geometry needs to be checked from axle center to lower triple with no preload, as apposed to using the fork caps at the top triple.
 

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okay.. I can normally picture stuff like this in my head well enough to figure out when I'm actually doing it. But some parts of this have me confused. Mind clarifying?
I just had the forks refreshed and want to make sure I do a good job of putting them back on before I get to barber in a couple of weeks. This is on an 05-600 stock forks, except for .95springs. Last year I just used a tape measurer at the top triple to make sure they were at the same mark as before.

Install left fork, measure height from top triple, tighten triples
install right fork, use the axle as a guide to level, then tighten right side triples?
remove axle, install wheel, tighten axle. drop the front and bounce the front end while holding the brakes on
THEN torque calipers, pump brakes :lol
lift the front, torque axle, pinch bolts, triple bolts.
 

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For the love of god, install your wheel before you torque the calipers and pump the brakes!

Install one leg at a measured height and torque it down.
Install the other leg using the axle to match height and torque it down.
Remove axle, install wheel, and torque the axle.
Install calipers and torque them.
Lower the bike, pump the brakes, roll the bike back and forth, bounce it a little.
Lift the bike back up, torque the right side pinch bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Don't use top triple to measure. It is meaningless unless just tracking a few mm change mid day (move both forks the same amount). But your geometry is set on the bottom. Both forks may not be the same length so notate that. Your forks may be a slightly different length after your rebuild so if you measured before by the top your geometry will likely be a little bit different.

I'll have to check an 05 axle to see if the sequence is the same. The y2k is a bit different I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK. 05 is different.

For 01-05 600 and 00-05 750 (and maybe even Srad gen) everything is indexed to the left fork instead of the right.

I don't recall if the left sleeve has the hex hole on 04/05. Almost positive 01-03 don't.

On all of them align forks vertically first...

Install wheel and axle. All pinch bolts loose. Tighten axle. If collar has hex hold the collar and torque axle to left fork. If collar doesn't have hex tighten axle best you can, then tighten pinch bolts on the collar, then torque the axle.

Axle and collar are now torqued and indexed to left leg.
Install and torque calipers.
Pump brakes.
Lower front end. Bounce with brakes.
Raise front end
check axle torque
torque right pinch bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
On the bikes with the collar, you are lucky in that once you've done this once, and assuming nothing changes (crash etc) you don't have to mess with the collar anymore once set the first time.
 

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For the love of god, install your wheel before you torque the calipers and pump the brakes!

Install one leg at a measured height and torque it down.
Install the other leg using the axle to match height and torque it down.
Remove axle, install wheel, and torque the axle.
Install calipers and torque them.
Lower the bike, pump the brakes, roll the bike back and forth, bounce it a little.
Lift the bike back up, torque the right side pinch bolts.
:spit That's what I meant in my head, I swear

OK. 05 is different.

For 01-05 600 and 00-05 750 (and maybe even Srad gen) everything is indexed to the left fork instead of the right.

I don't recall if the left sleeve has the hex hole on 04/05. Almost positive 01-03 don't.

On all of them align forks vertically first...

Install wheel and axle. All pinch bolts loose. Tighten axle. If collar has hex hold the collar and torque axle to left fork. If collar doesn't have hex tighten axle best you can, then tighten pinch bolts on the collar, then torque the axle.

Axle and collar are now torqued and indexed to left leg.
Install and torque calipers.
Pump brakes.
Lower front end. Bounce with brakes.
Raise front end
check axle torque
torque right pinch bolts.
It all makes sense now. Thanks to the both of you for drawing it out so clearly!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I missed he said calipers then wheel :facepalm :lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Anyone want to chime in on what style axle srads have, and what the 1000s have please do. Been a long time since I messed with either
 

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Moto Joe,
Thank you for this write up. I've always done something similar to this but i'll use this way from now on. I always put the calipers on after i had the front tire buttoned back up.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I used to as well. I noticed brake drag was less once doing them first.... so I tested a bit and it works. Not much difference but some.

Combine this with a caliper cleaning and ceramic bearings and the tire will rotate on the stand just from vibration revving the motor lol
 

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Wish i could afford some ceramics, i can't justify $400 for bearings :/ I don't race, just track days. I got my bike back from the dealer this winter after getting the master cylinder recall done and i couldn't even spin my front tire freely. I mean when i spun it it stopped right away. This is why i'm rebuilding calipers, getting new brake pads and i'm giong to align front tire like you mentioned. I hope this solves all my problems. Thanks again for these write ups!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don't have ceramics either. Buddy of mine does. We noticed his doing it lol. Rev the bike and front wheel turned... I was like "you goddamn cheater, you have two wheel drive on that thing?" :blink :lol
 

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"Alignment starts with fork alignment vertically. Remove the front wheel. Using the axle as a guide pin, move the right fork up or down in the triples until the two forks are aligned perfectly vertically so that the axle slides in smoothly. This later will allow the left fork to self align on the axle."

So after this step, both your upper and lower triples are torqued down yes?

"Drop front end off stand, and while holding brakes bounce front forks a few times. This sets the left forks position on the axle."

What do you mean left fork positions on the axle? At this point, if the triples are torqued, there is no more vertical movement, so do you mean just the axle holes will spin into place?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Once aligned vettically yes triples and clipons need torquing down Shouldn't need saying but I'll add it.

And you are setting the fork on the axle. There is some flex left to right. By aligning vertically you allow it to have as little friction as possible on the axle where the fork clamps. If the forks are not aligned vertically the axle can be pulled inward on installation putting the forks and the brakes in a bind.

Dropping the bike to set the axle will negate and free up any bind. It will allow the fork to self align on the axle. Then torque pinch bolts in its natural alignment.


Not sure what you are talking about "axle holes"
 
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