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Discussion starter · #81 ·
It wont get firm until everything is full, so that is no surprise. Why one line and not the other... you did something different on one and not the other :dunno. Do you have the OEM routing of lines? Or do you have two lines from the MC?
 
It wont get firm until everything is full, so that is no surprise. Why one line and not the other... you did something different on one and not the other :dunno. Do you have the OEM routing of lines? Or do you have two lines from the MC?

I have 2 lines from the M/C now...spiegler lines if that matters
 
Discussion starter · #83 ·
Line type does not matter. Check to make sure the washers are right on the banjo, and you have the right bolt. That is the only thing I can see mechanically wrong. Should be Master cylinder, washer, banjo, washer, banjo, washer, bolt. And be sure the bolts holes line up with the banjos, and even make sure the bolts holes are clear.

If all those things are done, you just need to keep at it. You can try doing it "old school" if need be to get it started too. Pump pump pump, crack-close, repeat. Once you get fluid swap to this way, and it shoudl work
 
Then you are doing something wrong, and there is still air in the lines or something. Make sure you have a good thread seal if you are trying to do the bleed the way outlined here, and also make sure you keep some pressure at the lever when pumping. It should not flop around, It should feel just a bit softer than actually applying the brakes.
Ok so I did it again and the brakes are 100 times better but for some reason I still have the problem where it goes soft every now and then.While I was bleeding it it had constant pressure and there was no air coming through the tubes just fluid.Let it stand for awhile and went to feel and it was fine still.Took the bike for a ride and very first attempt the lever hit the handlebar, second attempt the pressure was back and everytime there after.Got home and left it to stand for awhile and on the fist pull no pressure again but every pull after that had pressure.Cant see it leaking anywhere and the reservoir stays full.Dont know what else to try.
 
Line type does not matter. Check to make sure the washers are right on the banjo, and you have the right bolt. That is the only thing I can see mechanically wrong. Should be Master cylinder, washer, banjo, washer, banjo, washer, bolt. And be sure the bolts holes line up with the banjos, and even make sure the bolts holes are clear.

If all those things are done, you just need to keep at it. You can try doing it "old school" if need be to get it started too. Pump pump pump, crack-close, repeat. Once you get fluid swap to this way, and it shoudl work
I actually stacked 2 washers between the banjos at the M/C. The way the bolt was contoured I thought it made sense to do it that way. With 2 washers it lifts the top line banjo above the "indent" in the bolt. I'm assuming I needed the second one to get the upper banjo above that step on the bolt??? Maybe I'm wrong???? I used all the parts in the kit so I figured it was right. Everything else is as you said. I tried the pump pump crack method for a couple hours and got nothing. Who knows at this point. I'm missing an entire race weekend because of this. I don't want to miss anymore.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
Put the washers in the order I said. The holes in the line and banjo probably are not lined up and you are not getting fluid to one line properly.
 
Put the washers in the order I said. The holes in the line and banjo probably are not lined up and you are not getting fluid to one line properly.

Word...so only one washer between the banjo's? What's the extra washer for then? Just an extra?

Thanks for your help.
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
There should be a washer on each side of every banjo.

So at the MC, it is MC, washer, banjo, washer, banjo, washer bolt

At the calipers it is Caliper, washer, banjo, washer, bolt.

If it is not like that it is wrong. If it is, and you have washers left, then they accidentally sent you an extra.
 
Trackday was rained out today so I came home and did this.........lever feels about the same as before maybe slightly harder.
Hopefully it helps with the horrible brake fade that I always get after about 4-5 hot laps.
I know my arms got a good pump from putting through a whole bottle front & back.:cheers
 
There should be a washer on each side of every banjo.

So at the MC, it is MC, washer, banjo, washer, banjo, washer bolt

At the calipers it is Caliper, washer, banjo, washer, bolt.

If it is not like that it is wrong. If it is, and you have washers left, then they accidentally sent you an extra.

Ok thank you man, I really appreciate it...I have everything like you said except I have 2 washers between the banjos so I'll take one out and give it a shot...I'll put teflon on too. Standby...
 
Sorry to keep this thread going with crappy questions but I am confused on something at the MC. I will be attempting this procedure of bleeding tomorrow morning but will also be switching my lines out to Speiglers as well. When removing the fluid from the lines, I saw in the STG vids, do I, completely empty the MC through the caliper, unhook all lines, connect new lines, fill reservoir, bleed the MC, fill reservoir, bleed calipers, fill reservoir, repeat bleeding procedure, refill reservoir? I'm confused because you guys are saying not to comepletely empty the MC but the STG vids show them emptying the MC. :dunno If this is how I do it then this will be cake walk, but if not, please enlighten me on what to do differently. Also the entire system needs new fluid, so I am trying to remove as much old fluid as possible before entering any new fluid to the system. :cheers
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
I said not to empty the reservoir. The MC will empty the very small amount of fluid it holds when you take the lines off.

Dont over think it. Remove the lines, and dont get fluid everywhere. Put new lines on with the washers and everything properly. Bleed as I said.

The new fluid when you bleed will push all the old fluid out, especially if you do run a couple reservoirs full of fluid through each bleeder, and do the entire round twice.

Once you have the new lines on, and fluid is really flowing well into the lines (getting them started takes some patience sometimes), do each bleeder with about TWO reservoirs full, and do each bleeder twice. So put two reservoirs through MC bleeder. Then put two through right caliper, then two through left caliper, then repeat all three bleeders with at least one reservoir full unless there is still air then I will do two. Keep doing it until you see ZERO air in the lines. If you do more than what I just said and still see air, you might be introducing air around the bleeder screws. Check them
 
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