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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Hi Moto_Joe,

Just a lil confused and have a question. My master cylinder doesn't have an actual bleeder like the ones on the front calipers. Rather, it has like a banjo bolt. Do i just crack that open and let the fluid(entire reservoir) come out from there? So i would need lotsa dirty rags to catch the fluid as it is corrosive, correct? Please advice when you get a chance.

cheers,
Dano
No. disregard that part since you do not have a radial master cylinder :cheers
 
I just want to throw my $.02 in here. I did this last night and holy crap! This works perfectly! I just followed each step and went through the each bleeder twice. Piece of cake and flawless results. I took the bike out for a test ride last night and my brakes are rock solid. This morning I rode it into work. It's like a new bike. The brakes have never been this good. I'm so pumped about them now I want to get my new lines and pads ordered. Thanks a million Moto Joe!
 
Hi guys.I did this the weekend and changed pads and my brakes on my k7 600 are alot better but every now and again if I pull the brake its as if there is no pressure, leave it and pull again and it feels fine.Cant see any fluid leaks anywhere.One of the shops suggested changing the lines to steel braided.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
The lines wont cause you to lose pressure. Their is either air in the lines, or a bent rotor. Does it lose pressure ever sitting still? Or only after you roll it a bit?
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
Then you are doing something wrong, and there is still air in the lines or something. Make sure you have a good thread seal if you are trying to do the bleed the way outlined here, and also make sure you keep some pressure at the lever when pumping. It should not flop around, It should feel just a bit softer than actually applying the brakes.
 
So this thread got me looking at my stuff, and I noticed the rear brake resivior looks like the damn thing is empty:dunno. So when I pull the cap off it tomorrow and fill it do I basically do it the same way as the way you have it outlined for the fronts? Ive never worked on a bike before and want to do simple stuff myself just dont want to screw nothing up... would I pump the rear brake with my hand as I bleed? And do I need a special bottle with a pointy nose to fill that up or do I have to take the plastics off as its hard to get to?
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
Easiest thing to do on the rear usually is to taket he reservoir loose from its mount.

And yes, it should work fine the same way.
 
I am trying... When i pump and hold brake lever in I crack the bleeder.... do I wait till I see air come out before closing or do I open close open close? Shit I got a ton of air in the line.. the rubber hose feeding the MC was full of air. I squezed it and big air bubbles came out. What I did wrong was empty the resivior to much. So easy a monkey could do it guess Im dumber then a monkey. Something that sould have took a few minutes is taking hours now...
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
I am trying... When i pump and hold brake lever in I crack the bleeder.... do I wait till I see air come out before closing or do I open close open close? Shit I got a ton of air in the line.. the rubber hose feeding the MC was full of air. I squezed it and big air bubbles came out. What I did wrong was empty the resivior to much. So easy a monkey could do it guess Im dumber then a monkey. Something that sould have took a few minutes is taking hours now...

Did you read the directions? :lmao

You open the bleeder ONCE (with tape on it to make sure the threads stay sealed) and keep it just closed enough to keep pressure at the lever, and pump the lever until you see no more air. You dont open and close the bleeder.

the only thing I did not add was that sometimes it is best to actually pump the lever, then let go for a second or two, then pump again, rather than trying to pump fast.
 
Yeah I understand that joe. What Im trying to say is 1) I fucked up from the begining and empted the old shit out of the resivior causing a ton of air to go in the system. 2) I have No presure at the lever AT ALL. NONE . I dont know why I emptyed the damn thing ... I didnt empty the back one and they are great. But my dumb ass emptyed the front one totally. So now I have no pressure at the lever at all and a ton of air in the line. Go ahead and tell me that I fucked up
 
:lol
You're so mad! Don't be mad at Joe cause you done fucked it up :spit
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
:lol

To get fluid moving, you might need to try "old school" way, THEN go my way just to get fluid in the lines again. Bleed MC first, then go to the calipers.
 
My bike dont have an MC bleeder. I had to end up pulling the brake lever off and tilting it so the air would come out of the MC, the way it is mounted the air was trapped inside. Just a dumb rookie mistake and I didnt follow instructions but hey I got it they are tighter then shit and I learned something so thanks Joe, its a great way to bleed them without a mess even though I made a mess lol.
 
Is the teflon tape critical? I tried this method without the tape today (before I found this post) and I couldn't get the M/C bleed nipple to puke anything really - just a few ml's. The right side caliper line filled and puked out solid fluid but the left side had nothing. And I couldn't get any "firmness" on the lever. Is my M/C bad?
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
It is not absulutely needed if you keep enough tension at the screw that air can't get past the threads. But that takes a bit of feel and experience imo so the tape is the best bet. I doubt the Mc is bad.
 
It is not absulutely needed if you keep enough tension at the screw that air can't get past the threads. But that takes a bit of feel and experience imo so the tape is the best bet. I doubt the Mc is bad.

I hear ya......but why would it fill one line and not the other AND never get firm at all. I mean it was still as loose as it was when empty. It doesn't make any sense:scratch????????? Its sucked enough out of the reservoir to fill the right line and caliper but that's it and after that the reservoir level wouldn't change. Also keep in mind that I seperated each of the front caliper halves to inspect the seals but couldn't get the pistons out to replace them so I just replaced the small o-ring in between the caliper halves and called it good. Overkill i know, but I figured I'd take a look while I replaced the pads and lines. The seals (what I could see anyway) looked good around the pistons, no leaking. Sorry for the newbie questions but this is keeping me off the track right now. Sooooooo pissed!!! Ready to light the sumbitch on fire!!!!:cursing
 
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