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Discussion Starter #41
How much new fluid do you actually go threw by using this method to bleed?

Once you open a bottle, it is garbage. So use an entire bottle regardless of how much it "takes". It ensures you get a thorough bleed.
 

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Loves MASSIVE CASCADES of jizz on his face
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I've switched to ATE Blue brake fluid. When flushing out the old fluid, it makes it a doddle to tell when you're done...the fluid is blue, duh. :lmao

And when you do the next flush, simply use the amber colored fluid...no more blue = job complete.
 

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Fail proof bleeding. ........... TRUST ME

Get some teflon tape.
Get some clear aquarium hose.
Get a catch bottle for the fluid
Get a wrench to fit bleeders (8mm on most)
Get a phillips screw driver to remove reservoir lid
Get a NEW UNOPENED BOTTLE of QUALITY brake fluid. IMPORTANT!!.
Only takes one person

Put tape on the threads of the bleeders, being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them. The teflon tape is important to keep air from seeping past the threads on the bleeders and into the system, as well as keeping the bleeder in place while you pump the lever.

Forget the "Pump pump pump, crack.... close... repeat" method. It sucks.

Attach the hose to the bleeders. Run that hose to a catch bottle well above the nipple you are bleeding, so you keep a column of fluid in the hose on top of the bleeder. This column of fluid in the hose on top of the nipples is very important to keep air from going back in the system

Crack the master cylinder bleeder, just enough that you still have some pressure on the lever as you pull it, but fluid is coming out of it also. pump until you get clean clear fluid out of the MC bleeder. I usually run one entire reservoir of fluid through the bleeder. Re-fill reservoir and move to lower right caliper.

Tap lines lightly with something

Crack bleeder on lower right caliper (with teflon tape on it) again just enough that fluid will pass out of it, but there is some effort at the lever. Run an entire reservoir through it. Close bleeder.

tap on lines again

Repeat with left caliper.

Repeat at all three bleeders, (meaning do this TWICE at EACH bleeder) using about one full reservoir at each bleeder.

remove all hoses and catch bottles. Clean up and ride.



Trust me, you will thank me later. Assuming you dont have a mechanical issue, you will now have the most firm lever you have ever felt in your life.


Some people argue going through that much fluid is "a waste". Truth is once a bottle of fluid is opened it is garbage anyway. So with that said, might as well run it through the system to flush out old fluid and bubbles before you throw the bottle away. Once it is opened it has started absorbing water from the atmosphere and is GARBAGE
Followed these instructions to the letter and pumped all the old Dr. Pepper from my brakes that was in it when I got it and wow. Amazing difference and probably the easiest brake bleed I have ever done. Thanks for this Joe! Worked like a charm! :biggrin
 

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I would just like to say thank you, that did make it SOOO much easier on myself!!

Awesome How To
 

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Rusty Trumpeter
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ok, im new to brakes and pretty mechanically stupid. take the bleeders out and tape the threads. put the bleeders back in. loosen a little. attach hose to bleeder. then what exactly? im talkin barney style here. in not comprehending where the old fluid goes out and new comes in. i mean, i got the old out, but where is the new comin it?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
ok, im new to brakes and pretty mechanically stupid. take the bleeders out and tape the threads. put the bleeders back in. loosen a little. attach hose to bleeder. then what exactly? im talkin barney style here. in not comprehending where the old fluid goes out and new comes in. i mean, i got the old out, but where is the new comin it?
Pump, and as your reservoir gets empty, keep it full. Dont let it get empty. Old fluid is going into the cup that the hoses are ran into. New is coming from a brand new bottle of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Yes, make sure your reservoir is never empty :cheers
 

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Rusty Trumpeter
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thats what i was thinkin, but you didnt mention it in the write up (or im totally blind and missed it which is entirely possible thanks to wag and some of the other red r threads.) so it just wasnt clicking and i wanted to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
yeah, I probably didnt, and sortof assumed that was common knowledge if you were going that far. :cheers. Ill see if I can fix it.

FWIW, if you dont have NEW pads in there as well, when you are done bleeding you dont want the reservoir more than about halfway full. If the pads are new, you can go up to about the full line though, but be careful not to over fill when putting the cap back on and complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
No. you dont have to drain the reservoir, nor the calipers. You will want to take the lower banjo loose where the hose attaches to the calipers (if you have OEM, do the left side [single] first). Then the right, Then the top. Be carefull as you do this, as you do not want to spill fluid on anything painted. It eats paint. If it does spill, clean it up immediately to avoid paint damage. The calipers will stay full. The MC and reservoir will stay mainly full too.
 

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Birdman
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So I did this Saturday morning, and let me tell you, I didn't ever think my back brake could get this tight.
(The previous owner put this on there: http://www.roadczar.com/1000K5Gcraft.htm and I thought maybe that's why I could never get a solid rear brake)

I use my back brake quite a bit when I have to stop quickly or even just slowing down. It's great how nice my back brake is now.
For the front, I had a lot of air come out of the MC, which I really didn't expect because I bled them about a month or so ago using the old open/close method. I did not have any air come out of either of the front, though.

And FYI, when I took out the back bleeder to put the tape on, there was no fluid that leaked out. The front 2 on the other hand, those were gushing pretty good. I think I did a good job keeping it off the pads/rotors but some did get on the outside of the calipers which I wiped of right away. I also spilled some on the frame/right fairing but wiped that up too :shifty (I think I'm safe)

I just hope it stays like this. Last time, my front were tight (not this tight) but it seemed they went squishy pretty quick.
 

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Rusty Trumpeter
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i was gonna do mine this weekend, but didnt get around to it. may be a after work project this week. i dont know, for some reason i am not feelin comfortable about doin it, even though i know once i do it, ill realize its not half as bad as i thought it was :lol
 

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Birdman
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it's way easy man. just be careful of the front bleeders. it comes out pretty quick :giggity
 

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Birdman
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oh, well good luck with that :lol
 

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Crack the master cylinder bleeder, just enough that you still have some pressure on the lever as you pull it, but fluid is coming out of it also. pump until you get clean clear fluid out of the MC bleeder. I usually run one entire reservoir of fluid through the bleeder. Re-fill reservoir and move to lower right caliper.
Hi Moto_Joe,

Just a lil confused and have a question. My master cylinder doesn't have an actual bleeder like the ones on the front calipers. Rather, it has like a banjo bolt. Do i just crack that open and let the fluid(entire reservoir) come out from there? So i would need lotsa dirty rags to catch the fluid as it is corrosive, correct? Please advice when you get a chance.

cheers,
Dano
 

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Hi Moto_Joe,

Just a lil confused and have a question. My master cylinder doesn't have an actual bleeder like the ones on the front calipers. Rather, it has like a banjo bolt. Do i just crack that open and let the fluid(entire reservoir) come out from there? So i would need lotsa dirty rags to catch the fluid as it is corrosive, correct? Please advice when you get a chance.

cheers,
Dano
I don't know if your 03 has a bleeder on it or not, but you do NOT want to try and bleed it through the banjo bolt. If you don't have a bleeder, bypass the master cylinder part and just bleed through the calipers.
 
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