Do not use race pads on the street. They need heat to work, heat that won't be developed with street riding.
Your the man thanks bro teflon tape is a mustFail proof bleeding. ........... TRUST ME
Get some teflon tape.
Get some clear aquarium hose.
Get a catch bottle for the fluid
Get a wrench to fit bleeders (8mm on most)
Get a phillips screw driver to remove reservoir lid
Get a NEW UNOPENED BOTTLE of QUALITY brake fluid. IMPORTANT!!.
Only takes one person
Put tape on the threads of the bleeders, being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them. The teflon tape is important to keep air from seeping past the threads on the bleeders and into the system, as well as keeping the bleeder in place while you pump the lever. The tape is one of the critical parts here. If you wish to not use tape, another option is thread sealant by speed bleeder http://compare.ebay.com/like/390486839094?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar. The thread sealant is what makes speedbleeders work really. The hose I am attaching to the nipple of the bleeder once it has fluid in it (after first pump) acts just like the check valve in speedbleeders. Since you need the hose anyway to not make a mess, the check valve is pointless. The key is the sealant on the threads to prevent air seeping past the threads.
Forget the "Pump pump pump, crack.... close... repeat" method. It sucks.
Attach the hose to the bleeders. Run that hose to a catch bottle well above the nipple you are bleeding, so you keep a column of fluid in the hose on top of the bleeder. This column of fluid in the hose on top of the nipples is very important to keep air from going back in the system
Crack the master cylinder bleeder, just enough that you still have some pressure on the lever as you pull it, but fluid is coming out of it also. pump until you get clean clear fluid out of the MC bleeder. I usually run one entire reservoir of fluid through the bleeder. I have also found that letting the lever "snap" back out helps. I am not sure why. It may knock stuck bubbles loose, or cause small bubbles to make bigger bubbles. But it sometimes helps, especially when trying to prime a new system. Re-fill reservoir and move to lower right caliper.
Tap lines lightly with something
Crack bleeder on lower right caliper (with teflon tape on it) again just enough that fluid will pass out of it, but there is some effort at the lever. Run an entire reservoir through it. Close bleeder.
tap on lines again
Repeat with left caliper.
Repeat at all three bleeders, (meaning do this TWICE at EACH bleeder) using about one full reservoir at each bleeder.
remove all hoses and catch bottles. Clean up and ride.
Trust me, you will thank me later. Assuming you dont have a mechanical issue, you will now have the most firm lever you have ever felt in your life.
Some people argue going through that much fluid is "a waste". Truth is once a bottle of fluid is opened it is garbage anyway. So with that said, might as well run it through the system to flush out old fluid and bubbles before you throw the bottle away. Once it is opened it has started absorbing water from the atmosphere and is GARBAGE