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Brake bleeding problems? Look here, fail proof bleeding

246K views 374 replies 144 participants last post by  craigfer63 
#1 · (Edited)
Fail proof bleeding. ........... TRUST ME

Get some teflon tape.
Get some clear aquarium hose.
Get a catch bottle for the fluid
Get a wrench to fit bleeders (8mm on most)
Get a phillips screw driver to remove reservoir lid
Get a NEW UNOPENED BOTTLE of QUALITY brake fluid. IMPORTANT!!.
Only takes one person

Put tape on the threads of the bleeders, being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them. The teflon tape is important to keep air from seeping past the threads on the bleeders and into the system, as well as keeping the bleeder in place while you pump the lever. The tape is one of the critical parts here. If you wish to not use tape, another option is thread sealant by speed bleeder http://compare.ebay.com/like/390486839094?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar. The thread sealant is what makes speedbleeders work really. The hose I am attaching to the nipple of the bleeder once it has fluid in it (after first pump) acts just like the check valve in speedbleeders. Since you need the hose anyway to not make a mess, the check valve is pointless. The key is the sealant on the threads to prevent air seeping past the threads.

Forget the "Pump pump pump, crack.... close... repeat" method. It sucks.

Attach the hose to the bleeders. Run that hose to a catch bottle well above the nipple you are bleeding, so you keep a column of fluid in the hose on top of the bleeder. This column of fluid in the hose on top of the nipples is very important to keep air from going back in the system

Crack the master cylinder bleeder, just enough that you still have some pressure on the lever as you pull it, but fluid is coming out of it also. pump until you get clean clear fluid out of the MC bleeder. I usually run one entire reservoir of fluid through the bleeder. I have also found that letting the lever "snap" back out helps. I am not sure why. It may knock stuck bubbles loose, or cause small bubbles to make bigger bubbles. But it sometimes helps, especially when trying to prime a new system. Re-fill reservoir and move to lower right caliper.

Tap lines lightly with something

Crack bleeder on lower right caliper (with teflon tape on it) again just enough that fluid will pass out of it, but there is some effort at the lever. Run an entire reservoir through it. Close bleeder.

tap on lines again

Repeat with left caliper.

Repeat at all three bleeders, (meaning do this TWICE at EACH bleeder) using about one full reservoir at each bleeder.

remove all hoses and catch bottles. Clean up and ride.



Trust me, you will thank me later. Assuming you dont have a mechanical issue, you will now have the most firm lever you have ever felt in your life.


Some people argue going through that much fluid is "a waste". Truth is once a bottle of fluid is opened it is garbage anyway. So with that said, might as well run it through the system to flush out old fluid and bubbles before you throw the bottle away. Once it is opened it has started absorbing water from the atmosphere and is GARBAGE
 
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#3 ·
I have worse luck with a mityvac. mine is rotting in a corner somewhere. I never use it. I think I tried to use it maybe 5times, and every time ended up doing it "my way" in the end
 
#4 ·
Subscribed for future referance.........:thumbup
 
#8 ·
I was going to try this technique.

"Put tape on the threads of the bleeders, being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them."

Can you explain this some more? Is it simply a case of wrapping the teflon tape around the threaded part of the bleed nipple and what do you mean by being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them?
 
#11 ·
I was going to try this technique.

"Put tape on the threads of the bleeders, being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them."

Can you explain this some more? Is it simply a case of wrapping the teflon tape around the threaded part of the bleed nipple and what do you mean by being careful not to get it so low on the bleeders as to get under them?
yes its that simple. he means you don't want it so low that the teflon gets underneath the bleeder and gets stuck there. probably has to do with the teflon disintegrating
 
#10 ·
I always hated the vacuum too. It'd suck air in around the bleeder, even with teflon tape. Heavy grease would work, but made a big mess of things.

I just get my son involved now. I've done it by myself the way you're talking about and it works great. But a little father and son time is good too. He loves sitting on the bike an pumping the brake for me.
 
#12 ·
The bleeder works by pressing on a seat when you screw it down. If the teflon gets into the seat (the cone shaped part inside the bleeder) it can cause them to leak ever so slightly. Make sure to use only enough that it covers the threads, but not so much that it will get into the seat area
 
#24 ·
agree

MityVacs basically suck, and rarely get it done as well as a good bleeding can. It might be good enough for street use, but track use I have never had a mity vac provide fade free bleeding
disagree

and i close the bleeders wile the mity-vac is still under vacuum. if you have a vacuum on the system and pull the hose off then, well, you are going to suck air into the bleeder. think about it.

i remove the bleeder screw, and teflon tape the threads. re install the screw, and i just loosen the bleeder screw a 1/4 turn with an 8mm box wrench and then zip-tie (small zip ties) a clear hose to the bleeder nipple. i leave the wrench on the bleeder screw. pull a vacuum...then i close the bleeder screw wile still pulling a slight vacuum. no air.
 
#13 ·
There is another way it can be done.

1) Use a large syringe. Fill with fresh fluid.
2) Empty master cylinder.
3) Put syringe on caliper bleed nipple.
4) Open nipple and pump fresh fluid into caliper bleed nipple. Close nipple while still pumping.
5) Empty excess fluid from master reservoir.
6) Do other caliper same as in 4) above.
7) Check for bubbles in the master reservoir as it fills. Repeat procedure until no bubbles are seen. I get a hard lever first time everytime with this method.

Bubbles like to float upwards so reverse bleeding works with gravity. Although the lines are pretty thin so I don't know how much difference it makes.

Better than suction IMO due to the air leaks around the nipples causing bubbles which confuses detection of where the air is coming from.

Make sure the nipples are clean internally before pumping fluid into them so as to not contaminate the brake system.
 
#172 · (Edited)
This is pretty much the method I've used in the shop for 20+ years... What I use though is a pump type oil can - the metal can with a nozzle and a pump trigger, put your feed hose on that and it will hold 2-3 reservoirs worth of fluid. (you'll spend a lot of time unhooking/refilling/reconnecting a syringe, and you'll get air in the feed every time too)

I also make it a habit to push the caliper pistons all the way in before bleeding, this minimizes the amount of fluid space, which is also potentially airspace, which gets you the best possible bleed.

Also look at how your master cylinder is positioned on the handlebar - it very likely sits so the reservoir inlet is not the highest point - this can trap air in the master.

Last tip - if your fluid in the reservoir looks dark/cloudy or if there's any sediment in the bottom - mop it out with paper towels or tissue before filling and bleeding, you don't want the muck getting pumped through the system.

OP - great post, good method!

EDIT - LOL! I just saw by my user name "novice" LMFAO! I've been here 10 years...Back when we had free webpages with membership even... Ran shops going back to the '80's... post count only 95? that can't be right...
 
#17 ·
most MC shops carry the automatic vaccuum bleeder for around $45....hook up hose, pull trigger...vaccuum sucks air out. Yea kind of expensive...but to bleed your breaks withOUT having to read 50 write ups to find the best one or take longer than 5 minutes to do it is awesome :punk

pays for itself pretty much the first time you use it...especially at the track when time is crucial between sessions.
 
#18 ·
MityVacs basically suck, and rarely get it done as well as a good bleeding can. It might be good enough for street use, but track use I have never had a mity vac provide fade free bleeding
 
#19 ·
my breaks had been feeling spongy but i kept putting off the bleeding process. your thread inspired me and it worked a treat. goo post
 
#20 ·
Interesting write up. I will try this method when I get my new (old) 600 k1. When you say:

Crack bleeder on lower right caliper (with teflon tape on it) again just enough that fluid will pass out of it, but there is some effort at the lever. Run an entire reservoir through it. Close bleeder.
I am a little confused, so to clarify, you open the bleeder just a fraction so there is resistance to pull the brake lever, and then you just pump away without opening/closing the nipple?(while topping up the reserviour of course)

Sorry to be a pain happy riding.
 
#21 ·
Interesting write up. I will try this method when I get my new (old) 600 k1. When you say:



I am a little confused, so to clarify, you open the bleeder just a fraction so there is resistance to pull the brake lever, and then you just pump away without opening/closing the nipple?(while topping up the reserviour of course)

Sorry to be a pain happy riding.
Yes. Exactly. As long as you have the teflon tape on the threads, and the hose on the nipple, there is no reason to close the nipple every time. The reason the "old fashion" way requires closing the nipple is to avoid introducing air into the system when releasing the lever. That cant happen with this method.
 
#25 ·
Tried many different variations of how to use the mityvac.

Still prefer my variation of old school bleeding bar none. :dunno
 
#30 ·
So can you just keep the teflon tape on the threads permanently, or do you change it every time?

I was also wondering, when you said attach the hose to the bleeders, does this mean run 3 hoses at once from each bleeder to the catch bottle and then run through the process?

Thanks for the help, I've always done it with the traditional method -- excited to try this out.
 
#31 ·
I leave the teflon in, but when it gets "loose" feeling, I clean it off and replace it. I do my brakes pretty damn often, so it is way more often for me than it would be for most.

As for the hoses, you can run three at once, or just move the setup.

If you move the setup though, be aware that brake fluid is corrosive, so be careful not to spill it, or drip it, and if you do clean it up ASAP.
 
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