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great write up man I have a tank with two dents one on each side of the tank, is there anyway that I can pull or maybe pop those out to gain a lil more fuel capacity,
 

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Discussion Starter #22
yes you can if you can post a pick I can direct you a lil bit better no how to do it. Also depending on where it is you use a stud welder ( a special tool that does not creat a hole) or dill a hole and use a dent puller then weld the hole up be sure there is no gas or fumes when welding
 

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That is awesome man, thanks for te class..
 

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Do you sand, prime then paint???
 

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Thanks for that write up - answered several questions I had and showed me a lot. Cheers Si.
 

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Good write up :)

Can i add that if you can, after using filler in a dent try and leave it for a day or so as filler can shrink. If you paint to soon over fresh filler you can get what we call in britain a shrink line appearing.
This is when the outside ring of the repair starts to show through the finished coat of paint.
Also a shrink line may not appear till a few months after painting, but when it does it always catches your eye :sad

I myself usually paint at around 30 p.s.i Depending on what type of repair i'm doing. :)
 

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I'm going to start out by saying that for an average do-it-yourselfer this might work fine. However, I do custom paint & body for a living so there are some things I don't agree with completely. My rant is as follows.

I don't understand the point of filling the dent with duraglass when you are just going to cover it with bondo anyways. Why waste the money on the duraglass?

I also have a few points about the write-up. If you are going to prime the bondo and/or bare metal then there is no reason why you can not use 80 grit to cut those areas down quicker. Any good 2K primer will cover and fill 80 grit scratches well enough to paint over.

Additionally there is no reason to prime the entire tank unless you are trying to fill nicks and minor imperfections. The primer does not need to be wet-sanded if you are using a good brand of sandpaper and 320 grit is widely used in the automotive paint & body field to knock down the primer. No additional attention is needed after DRY 320 sanding the primer and you can blow the piece of and go straight to paint.

I also agree with Andy gsxr on the "shrink line" as this is very common on quick paint jobs. I would recommend giving the bondo a few days to do what it needs to do and then do 2-4 coats of primer over the bondo to make sure that there is no "suck-back" as we call it.

If anyone has any questions on any of this I am more than willing to help out as much as I can.
 

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... there are some things I don't agree with completely....

Additionally there is no reason to prime the entire tank unless you are trying to fill nicks and minor imperfections. The primer does not need to be wet-sanded if you are using a good brand of sandpaper and 320 grit is widely used in the automotive paint & body field to knock down the primer. No additional attention is needed after DRY 320 sanding the primer and you can blow the piece of and go straight to paint.
+1

The best undercoat is a good topcoat. If the previous color/clear coat is in good shape (no crows or shrinking, solvent pop, etc) it's already providing the same function that a primer will accomplish. A quick scuff and you're ready to shoot.

Additionally, if you spend quality time on the prep work, a primer-sealer rather than a primer-filler (2K) provides the same finish with less sanding and ultimately less paint thickness.

Also, I skimmed this quickly and didn't notice any mention of a prep solvent. Parts should be THOROUGHLY cleaned with a wax & grease remover prior to body work- otherwise you run the risk of contaminants embedded in your parts.

But a decent writeup nonetheless. My major suggestion for those reading- If don't feel comfortable doing it on your own remember most places charge around $800 for a complete full fairing paint job.

Cheers,
 

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+1

The best undercoat is a good topcoat. If the previous color/clear coat is in good shape (no crows or shrinking, solvent pop, etc) it's already providing the same function that a primer will accomplish. A quick scuff and you're ready to shoot.

Additionally, if you spend quality time on the prep work, a primer-sealer rather than a primer-filler (2K) provides the same finish with less sanding and ultimately less paint thickness.

Also, I skimmed this quickly and didn't notice any mention of a prep solvent. Parts should be THOROUGHLY cleaned with a wax & grease remover prior to body work- otherwise you run the risk of contaminants embedded in your parts.

But a decent writeup nonetheless. My major suggestion for those reading- If don't feel comfortable doing it on your own remember most places charge around $800 for a complete full fairing paint job.

Cheers,
I agree with everything this guy says. In addition to the prep solvent I would also recommend using a "tack-cloth" to remove any dust that might have landed on the piece between prep-solving the tank and the first coat of base or sealer.
 

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do you do any wet sanding or buffing of the plastics? im just learning some painting and the guy teaching me only does older cars all metal. said he doesnt think you can wet sand or buff the plastic pieces...we just sprayed another guys bike the other day and looks pretty good but slight orange peel effect...
 

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There is no problem wet sanding plastic pieces. You just need to be careful when buffing that you don't get the plastic too hot and cause the paint to lift. We do LOTS of bikes and most of them get the wet sand and buff process.
 

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Great thread.

Q: When you are doing the graphrics.....how long do you wait to tape off the freshly painted areas?

Q: What type of tape do you use to tape off for the graphics?

Q: Do you sand between coats of paint or is primer sanding the last bit of sanding for the bike?

Thanks in advace.

Ryan
 
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