great write up man I have a tank with two dents one on each side of the tank, is there anyway that I can pull or maybe pop those out to gain a lil more fuel capacity,
+1... there are some things I don't agree with completely....
Additionally there is no reason to prime the entire tank unless you are trying to fill nicks and minor imperfections. The primer does not need to be wet-sanded if you are using a good brand of sandpaper and 320 grit is widely used in the automotive paint & body field to knock down the primer. No additional attention is needed after DRY 320 sanding the primer and you can blow the piece of and go straight to paint.
I agree with everything this guy says. In addition to the prep solvent I would also recommend using a "tack-cloth" to remove any dust that might have landed on the piece between prep-solving the tank and the first coat of base or sealer.+1
The best undercoat is a good topcoat. If the previous color/clear coat is in good shape (no crows or shrinking, solvent pop, etc) it's already providing the same function that a primer will accomplish. A quick scuff and you're ready to shoot.
Additionally, if you spend quality time on the prep work, a primer-sealer rather than a primer-filler (2K) provides the same finish with less sanding and ultimately less paint thickness.
Also, I skimmed this quickly and didn't notice any mention of a prep solvent. Parts should be THOROUGHLY cleaned with a wax & grease remover prior to body work- otherwise you run the risk of contaminants embedded in your parts.
But a decent writeup nonetheless. My major suggestion for those reading- If don't feel comfortable doing it on your own remember most places charge around $800 for a complete full fairing paint job.