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· Douchebag with false sense of racial superiority
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No, that seems pretty much right to me. I used to use my middle and ring finger on the brake, which made me always grab the brake harder when blipping. Reason for that is I would have to tighten my grip to get my index finger to hold onto the throttle.
I have got myself using the index and middle now, and it is a lot easier. Keep the two fingers kinda relaxed and they move with the rest of my hand when blipping, so my brakes stay constant.

On the open road I only use the front brake for entering corners, only use the rear brake sometimes to "steady" things going into a corner.
In town I pretty much only use the rear brake. Use a lot of engine braking too, so I only have to brake the last few metres-ish.
i'll have to try it. appreciate the inputs as always (not to thread jack ofc, since it is on topic ;) )
 

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interesting... this makes more sense to me than grabbing front while blipping. it just seems counter intuitive and might be more trouble than needed. then again, if it came down to a point where i NEEDED front + rear braking matching the revs on the blipped downshifts would be the last thing on my mind lol.

thanks for the inputs :thumbup
what ever floats your boat
 

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no front brake WHAT!?!?

no. anytime you are braking hard you are going to be hard on the FRONT. you should already know, thats where most of your stopping power is.

(in racing/time trial aspect) for the fastest times, if your not braking hard, you are on the gas-generally, of course there are exceptions.

SO, yes you should be practicing as much as possible anywhere and everywhere, on the street or on track. knowing how to control that front brake WHILE blipping and downshifting only becomes natural with practice.
 

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quick question about the downshift, blip thing. After watching that guy blipping that quickly and one after another it got me thinking. Under HEAVY or RACE pace breaking, are you supposed to get all of your braking out of the way then downshift to appropriate gear to match speed. Or are you supposed to blip/downshift during the heavy breaking?
 

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I downshift and brake at the same time then once Im in the gear I want to be in I continue to brake until I get to the desired speed at which I want to enter the corner.That being said I am new to the track and so Im sure this is only 1 way of doing it.
 

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I blip while breaking and down shifting its easy when you practice i did it when i started riding my gixxer without even thing thats the best was dont think just do as with braking i generally only use front 70% of breaking is done on front just use pointer and middle practice makes perfect
 

· BoredzWhore
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once you have it down well it will be one fluid movement. Definitely helpful at the track for hard breaking or if you find yourself in a sticky situation.

Just experiment and find out what works best for you. Find an empty parking lot or a long straight to practice on.
 

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I have tre on mine n I don't notice a difference because ur controlling the amount of rpm change u want because ur giving it throttle with the clutch pulled in then releasing the clutch so its not like ur releasing the clutch without reving it first if this answers ur question.
 

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all you're really trying to do is match the revs in the next gear down to decrease wear on the clutch and have smoother downshifts. you can do it on the brakes or not. it's just like in a car. you're not really trying to just "blip" the throttle, but more match the revs for the next gear (obviously you'll be turning more revs at the same speed in 2nd vs. 3rd for example). of course the faster you do this, the more it appears to be just a "blip".

it gets kind of dicey if you go to downshift under hard braking without rev matching. it just takes practice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
I think I'm beginning to get the hang of it slowly but surely. Basically, in neutral gear on bike stands, I practiced pulling in the clutch just prior to blipping the throttle quickly about 0.5k to 1k rpm, and then releasing the clutch and off the throttle at the same time. Once I started to get a feel of the motion, while riding I began preloading the shifter for the downshift so that when I pull in the clutch it will naturally downshift while keeping the same blipping/clutch motion. Because you are rev matching on the downshift, if you time it right it shouldn't surge forward.

I think my concern before was that bad timing would pop a wheelie (not going to happen unless you WOT when you release the clutch lever, lol) or lock up the rear (no slipper clutch but again not going to happen if you remember to blip at all and shift one gear at a time at mid to low revs) but practice helped a lot. Just found some open road without too much traffic and just continued to upshift, downshift, upshift, downshift, etc. And this is with a smart TRE, -1/+2, and GP shift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Also, I found that adjusting the tension on the clutch and throttle cables helped a lot with my ability to blip. Turns out that my throttle cable had too much slack (the locking nuts were freely rotating) which I believe contributed to inconsistent blips and poor shifts in general.
 
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