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Discussion Starter #1
Help!
I'm getting desperate!
The clutch on my '86 1100 was engaging with the lever right near the grip, so I started checking stuff out. After replacing the fiber discs and finding no improvement, I checked the master cylinder.
I know, wrong order, but what can I say?
BTW, 29,950 miles total.
Anyway: no fluid in master. I filled it, then thought I'd try to bleed it. Nothing would come out the slave cylinder bleed screw, so I rebuilt the master cylinder. Fluid still wouldn't come out until I had shortened up the M/C actuator rod (that plugs into the barrel in the lever) by about 1/16". Now when I go through the bleed procedure, fluid comes out the bleed screw, but I never get a firm grip feel, and the clutch doesn't release.
After pumping about a quart of brake fluid through this thing yesterday, I'm about at my wits' end. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Robert

[ 09-30-2002, 02:48 PM: Message edited by: Rob45 ]
 

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You may need to rebuild the slave-cylinder.

I don't know what the 16th of an inch on the m/c actuator was about, you may want to figure on replacing that with a long one again... 1/16" there translates into a lot more at the end of the lever itself because of the mechanical advantage. ...in other words, shortening that shaft removed some more of your available travel and moves everything closer to the grip.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Originally posted by FastCat:
...shortening that shaft removed some more of your available travel and moves everything closer to the grip.

Good luck.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Thanks. You're right of course about the rod, and I'm making a shim to replace the lost length, but I was not able to get the cylinder to charge - the piston wasn't moving back far enough on the return stroke to uncover the fill port in the bottom of the master - or at least that's what appeared to be happening.

What I did, though, to solve the problem was to get a "Mityvac" vacuum pump and vacuum-bleed the system. Got incredible amounts of air out even after having run a large amount of new fluid through prior to vacuuming. And when I was done, I mysteriously had excess lever free-travel, that wasn't there before bleeding.
Any excuse to buy a new tool is a good one!

Problem solved.
Thanks again, Fastcat!
Rob
 

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first mod I did was to switch to a cable clutch.
get the parts from a 88-92 Katana 600, bolts right on, no more hydraulic issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Karl:
Thanks for the tip about the cable clutch; I'd been wondering about that, and along about 10 o'clock Sunday night I was ready to change to anything - cable, gears, lever, electro-mechanical actuator - anything!
As long as we're on the subject of clutches: do you have any recommendation concerning clutch friction plates and/or pressure plate springs?
My original clutch, 30K miles of one-up riding, no dragstrip (but I weigh 230 with helmet, boots and all), was slipping under max power - like full throttle, cool morning, 4th gear. Not a huge problem, but...
So when I disassembled it, using the Suzuki shop manual for reference, I found that the friction plates looked perfect, and they miked at the low-limit dimension for NEW plates - .101" Since I had new plates on-hand, I replaced them anyway.
The steel plates also looked perfect, and checked out to be flat, too.
I since bought a set of Barnett springs, but haven't installed them.
Any recommendations?
Thanks again,
Robert
 
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