[Carterbaumk9]

I have a 2009 GSX-1000R with 7,000 miles its all stock besides after market exhaust on it, I bought it and it runs great at idle when the bike is cold when it reads around 90° to 95° on the temp gauge it starts to lose rpm and the 10 seconds later is shutdown, and when I was able to ride it, at the higher rpm I would hit the throttle and the bike would be sluggish and bog out for a little bit then it would wake up an put down the power, I have replaced the air filter spark plugs I was told it's has a new fuel pump and still dose the same thing can someone help me with this one I'm lost.

 

[Bat-1]

Sounds like it's not getting fuel consistently. Is this new fuel pump OEM? Was it installed correctly? Check for pinched or misrouted lines.

 

[Carterbaumk9]

Sounds like it's not getting fuel consistently. Is this new fuel pump OEM? Was it installed correctly? Check for pinched or misrouted lines.

I don't know if the new fuel pump is oem he had just told me that he put in a new fuel pump, I had read that if you put on a after market exhaust then your gonna need to do a fuel remapping to run properly but idk if that involves turning the bike or just fuel pump and injectors

 

[SparkyMJ]

This sounds like a vacuum leak to me. At cold start, the secondary throttles move wide open, and the mixture is rich. As the bike comes up in temp, the fast idle circuit stops, and it slowly begins leaning out the mixture. So the reason it may be working well at cold start is because the mixture needs to be rich anyway, and once the engine starts to warm, it is staying way too rich.

I know this from experience too, because the first time I was learning to do the throttle valve sync, you have to remove the vacuum lines, and I forgot to unplug the vacuum pressure sensor. So the bike ran so rich it filled my street with smoke and smelled like strong exhaust fumes, and it wouldn't idle unless I raised the heck out of the idle RPM adjuster.

If you have a vacuum leak where the lines run on the throttle bodies, it will force your bike to run super rich, and fail to idle, like mine did. There won't be an FI light for the vacuum leak I don't think, but you can test for the leak easily. You can easily verify or rule out this issue by trying some of these things:

• unplug the vacuum pressure sensor, and try running the bike. By doing this, you force the ECU to guess at a normal vacuum pressure, and the FI light will come on. Don't worry, nothing is wrong, but if you do this and the bike suddenly runs normal again, you almost certainly have a vacuum leak, or less likely, a faulty vacuum pressure sensor. This is usually on or around the airbox.
• Check and clean the vacuum hoses. Sometimes they wear through when the rubber gets old and hard, or they get kinked, or they fall off the throttle bodies. I would suggest removing the vacuum hoses, clean them off in a sink with water, and verify there is no cracks in them or broken T fittings, and that the sensor input where the hose connects isn't clogged or damaged. It has to have an air-tight seal to work. But again, do the first thing I mentioned first, it's easier, and this is more of the fix or subsequent test.

Refer to the shop manual, be careful with the small bits in there, parts can be fragile and sensitive. Don't use pliers to pull the vacuum lines off the throttles, you can damage the hoses.

Hope this helps. A free test to see if this is your problem is worth your time.

-Mike

 

[Carterbaumk9]

This sounds like a vacuum leak to me. At cold start, the secondary throttles move wide open, and the mixture is rich. As the bike comes up in temp, the fast idle circuit stops, and it slowly begins leaning out the mixture. So the reason it may be working well at cold start is because the mixture needs to be rich anyway, and once the engine starts to warm, it is staying way too rich.

I know this from experience too, because the first time I was learning to do the throttle valve sync, you have to remove the vacuum lines, and I forgot to unplug the vacuum pressure sensor. So the bike ran so rich it filled my street with smoke and smelled like strong exhaust fumes, and it wouldn't idle unless I raised the heck out of the idle RPM adjuster.

If you have a vacuum leak where the lines run on the throttle bodies, it will force your bike to run super rich, and fail to idle, like mine did. There won't be an FI light for the vacuum leak I don't think, but you can test for the leak easily. You can easily verify or rule out this issue by trying some of these things:

• unplug the vacuum pressure sensor, and try running the bike. By doing this, you force the ECU to guess at a normal vacuum pressure, and the FI light will come on. Don't worry, nothing is wrong, but if you do this and the bike suddenly runs normal again, you almost certainly have a vacuum leak, or less likely, a faulty vacuum pressure sensor. This is usually on or around the airbox.
• Check and clean the vacuum hoses. Sometimes they wear through when the rubber gets old and hard, or they get kinked, or they fall off the throttle bodies. I would suggest removing the vacuum hoses, clean them off in a sink with water, and verify there is no cracks in them or broken T fittings, and that the sensor input where the hose connects isn't clogged or damaged. It has to have an air-tight seal to work. But again, do the first thing I mentioned first, it's easier, and this is more of the fix or subsequent test.

Refer to the shop manual, be careful with the small bits in there, parts can be fragile and sensitive. Don't use pliers to pull the vacuum lines off the throttles, you can damage the hoses.

Hope this helps. A free test to see if this is your problem is worth your time.

-Mike

So I just had time to try this out I had unplugged the sensor and it run even worse an had a F1 code plugged it back in F1 code gone and still won't idle took off the fuel rail an there is a lot of small particles in the fuel rail would it be running like shit from the injectors being bad ?

 

[BillV]

Particles in the fuel rail is a bad sign. It should be spotless. The main fuel filter should have caught them as it has something like a 10 micron element. It sounds like it is somehow damaged or bypassed and you now also have clogged injectors. Beyond that I wonder where the particles came from, i.e. they're probably also in the tank. Remove one of the primary injectors and visually inspect the inlet for more particles. There's a fine screen that can load up with contaminants. There are Youtube videos about cleaning injectors using an aerosol can of carb cleaner. The cleaning process ought to provide an indication of whether the injector was clogged. You might need to clean the entire fuel system, including the tank. Owner's tend to cheap out and replace a failing fuel pump with an aftermarket pump motor. They have a reputation for poor performance and short life. Try to identify what you have but many aftermarket motors are not marked as such so it may be hard. But disassembling the fuel pump will allow you to inspect the strainer and provide a slight look into the inlet of the main filter. The service manual shows how to test the delivery pressure and flow rate. The flow rate is the most basic test unless you can rig up a pressure gauge to measure the fuel rail pressure while you are riding. It is the ultimate test but hard to do. As BAT-1 said, kinked fuel lines are not unknown.

FI code isn't nearly enough. You need a dealer mode switch so you can find the error code, which should be a big hint about what's going on. At this stage the switch should be always installed and located so that it can be turned on without turning the engine off.

Idle problems can also be caused by a clogged idle speed control valve or kinked ISC valve hose. The service manual shows how to check that.

 

[Carterbaumk9]

So the fuel pump I have in the bike is a OEM fuel pump but the strainer is full of rust and the fuel in the pump is very brown so dose anyone know of a good aftermarket fuel pump that has the same pressure of a good lasting performance fuel pump

 

[BillV]

You really need a new Suzuki pump. Anything else is a crap shoot. Search here about Quantum and others and you'll find posts about short life and related problems. If you buy a used Suzuki pump you should be ready to buy a new main filter, about $130. It sounds like you also need to thoroughly clean the tank. Something like EvapoRust will do that if the rust isn't thick. But that will leave a fairly "rough" and active surface that will rust easier in the future. I'd suggest trying to peen it down by putting some stainless nuts (maybe 50) in it, sealing the openings, and letting it turn in a clothes dryer (heat off) or small cement mixer for an hour.

The strainer only gets full of rust if it's really bad. But the main filter still should have blocked the rust from getting into the fuel rail and injectors, getting thoroughly clogged in the process. It sounds like that didn't happen and that something else was going on. I wonder if the element was drilled through.

You might want to read through this about what grandpaul went through. He had other problems and the link is in a relevant part of a big thread. He also had this thread related to the tank insides.