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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the only part of the forum with enough trafic to get a response, so I hope you guys don't send it to a tech section... I want to get a K5 (of course) and want suggestions on break-in. I want to know what you guys think of breaking it in on a DYNO? I don't know anything about Dyno break-in methods
... Fill me in!!
thanks.
 

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Bearded Viking Admin...
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If you want to sacrifice durability for a few HP that you wouldn't even know were there if you didn't have the dyno slip, go ahead...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No, I don't want to sacrafice durability... I haven't heard enough about what they actually DO to decide if I'd do it or not. Is it like the Mr Mototune method?? I think that's Garbage...
 

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Bearded Viking Admin...
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If you want reliability, do it the old fasioned way - ride it, not too hard, not near redline but still with variation in RPMs for the first 600 miles, then change oil and filter, tighten everything up and you're set
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you want reliability, do it the old fasioned way - ride it, not too hard, not near redline but still with variation in RPMs for the first 600 miles, then change oil and filter, tighten everything up and you're set
Thank you
.
 

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A lot of the people that are having motor problems with the K5 are not breaking there bike in right. I would go by the book. I think that suzuki knows what there talking about when They tell you how you should break it in. That is what is longest.
 

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One of the local dealers bikes was placed on the dyno @ 100 miles (by me). ZERO troubles.

Quite amazing that some folks that have no dyno experience have all of the facts.

These bikes are not made in WI....... they will not fall apart after a few miles on them.
 

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Bikes that are babaied by the book can star smoking at 40,000kms. I've seen it with a couple bikes and the old SRAD motors were usually broken is very gently (by the book) and SRAD motors don't last too long. Losing compression too soon.

Breaking it in on the dyno increases compression for the life of the bike. It doesn't fall off early.

Broken all my bikes in hard and they have proven trouble free.
 

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Quite amazing that some folks that have no dyno experience have all of the facts.
So true....
Its also quite amazing how there is 1 or 2 post about engine problems and all of a sudden it gets turned into "a lot of guys"
Mine was being tuned on a dyno at 600 miles and I didn`t give it a second thought.
I was very controled when I first picked the bike up thou. I travelled a least a mile before the front wheel left the deck
 

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I use the "medium way".......that's what I like to call it anyway.

It actually means I just ride the bike, but not going bonkers on the throttle.
I shift a lot, never use load the engine at low revs and high gears and use a lot of engine breaking.
Seems to work for me.....never any engine problems and no loss of power as far as I can feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I use the "medium way".......that's what I like to call it anyway.

It actually means I just ride the bike, but not going bonkers on the throttle.
I shift a lot, never load the engine at low revs and use a lot of engine breaking.
Seems to work for me.....never any engine problems and no loss of power as far as I can feel.
That's how I did my last bike. I've heard Mototune seals the rings good, but I've always felt like it thrashes the bottom end too soon while it's still so tight... I'll probably do it the 'medium' way since it worked for me so far. I guess I'm too scared to put it straight on a dyno
. At a thousand it'll be there for a costom map though
 

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I think that suzuki knows what there talking about when They tell you how you should break it in.
Suzuki can't tell you any different for liability issues. If they said go out and take your K5 up to 11,000 rpm in each gear then let off the throttle quickly to brake in your engine. You'd see Suzuki's flying all over the place(lol) and I guess you'd be breaking some speed limits too and Suzuki could be held liable. Break it in like your gonna ride it. Nobody's saying to trash your bike, just running around at 6,000 rpm for 2,000 miles aint really gonna help your bike any.
 

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i would agree with the medium method. i beat the hell out of all my bikes, but keep it within the rpm limits set by suzuki. as long as you make sure you load up the engine, vary the rpm, and use plenty of engine breaking, you will be okay.
 
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