Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums banner

Bike Bogging Problems

1677 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  TwistedMister
Hi there, recently bought a 97 600 SRAD. The bikes very clean and doesnt really have any issues except one niggly thing. The guy I got it from says he kept it at 6000 revs as if it was below that it would bog down if trying to give it a good bit of throttle.

I tried to find other similar posts but couldn't see any the same.

It isn't really a massive issue but would prefer to resolve it if I could. Does anyone have any ideas or even a link to another post? Thanks for any help.
1 - 3 of 11 Posts
For the most part a srad 600 usually won’t just smoothly ride at lower rpms unless your up to a highway cruising speed and in a appropriate gear anyway.
Expect to need to to be around 7000rpm and clutch control to start off from a stand still. And if going below 35mph you’ll likely want to be above 6k rpms to keep everything smooth.
I need to do a video on my 600, it is so smooth from idle all the way up to 16000, 10 times smoother than my Busa, neery a hiccup a hitch stumble or miss, so smooth where the busa has this hole off idle, 600 doesn't have near the power the busa has but it is significantly smoother...

I need to do a tooth count make sure I got rid of the 17 tooth.. I remember tanking the dremel tool to the cover so it would fit... lol

I thought I went back to stock but cannot really remember that far back? bout to get into the FI 750, dump tank contents and look at that fuel pump again.. man I hope its not totally destroyed, see what kind of plating job that dood did... lol

say whats the best way to prep a frame and swingarm for powder coating? the swingarm has something spilled on it wont come off, real ugly.. and someone did a half arsed job painting the frame and its half peeled off, that's the biggest part of the job, I know it runs well I have ran it a bunch

I dread this rusty fuel supply business, I know the tank is rusty had a peek at that but if the pump is destroyed again its another complete rebuild, guess I need to get those bikes to someone who will ride them enough to prevent this from happening again, no sense just looking at them and watching em rust..
See less See more
man I wish I had the dough for a kevlar tank, stainless? aluminum? right now 600 has Ethanol free in it and I have plugged the exhaust tip and blocked ram air inlets, WORKS

the fuel isn't evaporating out of the floats I know this cuz it fires right up after sitting 2 weeks, before plugging off and E free gas, 1 week and the float bowls are dry and I have to use all of the battery priming those carbs again, even having to put the charger on it cuz it drains priming those carbs..

huge relief knowing those carbs aren't drying up or having to start it every 4 days just to keep em primed and everything wet..

600 has so many new OEM parts, all sorts of stuff, basically everything is new, cables, all hoses, brakes, chain sprox, cushy new grips, clock bezel, fuel pump, plugs oil filter, tires, bearings, many new bolts grommets and fasteners, sourced all clips and brackets, its clean.. sure I have at least $2k in receipts if not more? its as complete as the day it came off the floor save the paperwork, looking for that if anyone has it, I have the tool kit and new strap but really would like to have the owners manual to complete it..

having the manual might motivate me to go ahead and buy that decal kit and paint the bike in a good stock color graphics? yellow black looks easiest, then maybe do the 750? I have a new spray kit, just need oilless compressor and rig up a small station, visqueen and a PVC frame, toss a couple heppa filters in front of a couple fans and call it good, point em outside.. just do it! uh huh...

600 really needs a 750 front end IMHO, its not horrible, but its not good either, works... but it is a hard ride compared to Busa, vibration is almost nil tho and that helps eliminate wrist pump and arm pump, it was bad but syncing and dialing in the carbs really smoothed things out plus I use the big heavy bar ends off Hayabusa's, they are heavy and large, absorb a lot of that fine vibration that tends to leave your hands all tingly after a few hunnerd miles..

with risers and a tall bubble I would have no issues taking this bike on 400+ mile a day rides, specially with weight matched 750 suspension set on the soft "touring" side of the dials...

I put genmar risers on the Busa what a difference, easier on the back, wrists, arms, and elbows..

got to empty that 750 tank and get into that... then the frame and swingarm... pretty sure I have more of that bike than I had of the 600.. its almost complete just ugly, sat outside in weather and sun got real faded has like chemical stains on it?... guess I'll find a shop maybe they do it all strip prep and powder coating? knowing I can fill it up with E free and not worrying about water is big, real burnt out on dealing with rust and gel, destroyed fuel systems... this will be the 5th time... however I imagine once its up and running good as the 600 its going to be my go to bike? Busa is just to big and bulky for those small jaunts to store and what not.. keep the 750 right next to the door, BOOM!

last a ran the 750 it ran real good, sorted the clutch sensor and some wiring as in a new right side control the starter works every time, then it just needed a R/R, went mosfet.. its all wired in all about to come out so I can do the frame and swingarm, gonna go through this one same way, new everything, cables, hoses, all rubber save the ram air boots those are good, look new actually.. but I'll go all new bearings, headstock tapered, swingarm, wheels, maybe even repair the Marcesini 5 spokes and toss em on there after a good paint or powder coating?

where can I get Marchesini bushings and spacers for the SRAD?
See less See more
Thats a great reply thank you very much for your help, I was advised by someone I know to check the exhausts to see if carb balancing was good. I found that they were well out of sync just by feeling for heat. I've took the fairings off and this weekend ill be doing a full service.

Got new oil, oem filters and a carb repair kit so I'm going to give it a big service and strip the carb down and clean it out and try and set it to the haynes manuals description. Ill see how it runs from there. The guy who I got it from had bought it from a dealer in May and they said they had done everything but we know what dealers garages can be like...

A few niggle bits to sort here and there but hopefully will have a bit of an update by the weekend.


these carb bikes do not have to sit long with a tank of ethanol unleaded to be destroyed, my Busa gas went bad in 4 months!

had the 600 go in 8 months, done, nothing but jelly at the bottom and carbs destroyed, pump, tank, ugly, keep up on that and pay attention to how you winter it, specially in dry climates, my carbs go dry in 5 days.. means I have to crank and crank to get em primed again, hard on batteries and each time the gas dries up it leaves behind a layer of lacquer.. not good ..

I found E free gas and I am blocking off exhaust and ram air inlets seems to be working? waited two weeks and it fired right up so the gas is not evaporating nearly as quick, most likely due to shutting off the air circulation, gas remains suspended which is good, exactly how long I dunno? 2 weeks is good for me tho, maybe I wait a month next time? so fire it up in 2 weeks that be a month.. it is cooler but either way.. even in winter they dry up fast around here.. jeeez its bad...

I always wondered why guys would put bungs in there exhaust tips, I'd see a red plug and wonder WTF? those dirt bike guys.. to stop the air flow and drying up the carb... kick start priming a carb is a BITHC
See less See more
1 - 3 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.