[Jamiedee95]

Hi there, recently bought a 97 600 SRAD. The bikes very clean and doesnt really have any issues except one niggly thing. The guy I got it from says he kept it at 6000 revs as if it was below that it would bog down if trying to give it a good bit of throttle.

I tried to find other similar posts but couldn't see any the same.

It isn't really a massive issue but would prefer to resolve it if I could. Does anyone have any ideas or even a link to another post? Thanks for any help.

 

[sradmad600]

Strip carbs, deep clean,new o rings etc

 

[Jamiedee95]

Great thanks for your help. Today when I was coming home from work it started chugging at low revs and needed high revs to get the bike moving otherwise it would stall.

I managed to drive it back home and turned it off. I then tried to restart it so I could hear it with my helmet etc off and it wouldn't start. Is this likely a carb issue making the mixture too rich?

 

[Monolith]

Wouldn’t hurt to confirm what size sprockets you have on the bike also...

And if you have a K&N airfilter. Throw it away and replace it with a oem paper.

If your front sprocket is too big and/or your rear sprocket is too small, it might be making a scenario where the 600 can’t rip and roar up the powerband with the clutch released.

Crappy airfilter could explain off your feeling of a starving for air notion. BMC “race” filter would be the best option, but they’re harder to source now.

A hot start issue could be a number of things, typically within the charging system. But hard to say without eliminating other variables such as fuel & air.

There are a few needle/jet kits for the srad, some are terrible with low rmp to wide open throttle, and others are forgiving. A lot of factors to consider though. Pretty much without knowing what’s inside from the previous owner, you’ll likely have to go exploring to confirm. And inspecting/repairing/replacing along the way.

A oem exhaust with oem carbs and oem chain/sprocket sizing... should be smooth and able to putter around at low rpm and go to wide open throttle smoothly. But small things such as a aftermarket exhaust / solenoid removal/ carb manifold tweaking/ aftermarket anything.... well it becomes a need to confirm what your working with to really sort it out....

For the most part a srad 600 usually won’t just smoothly ride at lower rpms unless your up to a highway cruising speed and in a appropriate gear anyway.
Expect to need to to be around 7000rpm and clutch control to start off from a stand still. And if going below 35mph you’ll likely want to be above 6k rpms to keep everything smooth.

Also, srads do not charge while at idle/low rpm cruising. If your babying the rpms a hot start issue might be a low battery. A mosfet R/R somewhat helps with minimizing that loss, but not significantly.

 

[Jamiedee95]

Thats a great reply thank you very much for your help, I was advised by someone I know to check the exhausts to see if carb balancing was good. I found that they were well out of sync just by feeling for heat. I've took the fairings off and this weekend ill be doing a full service.

Got new oil, oem filters and a carb repair kit so I'm going to give it a big service and strip the carb down and clean it out and try and set it to the haynes manuals description. Ill see how it runs from there. The guy who I got it from had bought it from a dealer in May and they said they had done everything but we know what dealers garages can be like...

A few niggle bits to sort here and there but hopefully will have a bit of an update by the weekend.

Cheers

 

[TwistedMister]

For the most part a srad 600 usually won’t just smoothly ride at lower rpms unless your up to a highway cruising speed and in a appropriate gear anyway.
Expect to need to to be around 7000rpm and clutch control to start off from a stand still. And if going below 35mph you’ll likely want to be above 6k rpms to keep everything smooth.

I need to do a video on my 600, it is so smooth from idle all the way up to 16000, 10 times smoother than my Busa, neery a hiccup a hitch stumble or miss, so smooth where the busa has this hole off idle, 600 doesn't have near the power the busa has but it is significantly smoother...

I need to do a tooth count make sure I got rid of the 17 tooth.. I remember tanking the dremel tool to the cover so it would fit... lol

I thought I went back to stock but cannot really remember that far back? bout to get into the FI 750, dump tank contents and look at that fuel pump again.. man I hope its not totally destroyed, see what kind of plating job that dood did... lol

say whats the best way to prep a frame and swingarm for powder coating? the swingarm has something spilled on it wont come off, real ugly.. and someone did a half arsed job painting the frame and its half peeled off, that's the biggest part of the job, I know it runs well I have ran it a bunch


I dread this rusty fuel supply business, I know the tank is rusty had a peek at that but if the pump is destroyed again its another complete rebuild, guess I need to get those bikes to someone who will ride them enough to prevent this from happening again, no sense just looking at them and watching em rust..

 

[Monolith]

@TwistedMister
I remember with my 600 it came with a stunt sprocket when I first bought it. Smooth but silly. After replacing chain and sprockets with oem spec , the bike was essentially fully oem at that point. Smooth in all ranges also. As time went on, I put a hindle full system and mjn needle kit bought from ccmhunt into it. Again , still smooth as silk... then later on I bought a chain and sprocket kit from Sradiator, I can’t remember anymore if it was 520 or 525, but it definitely was not oem gearing for a 600, I think it was oem for a fi 750 if memory serves me correct(I could dig it up if anyone cared enough). With that it created a few low rpm low speed cruising flat spots. Basically the engine didn’t have enough umph to keep everything positively engaged. Most noticeable at 2nd gear ~20mph ~3.5k rpms. Of course simply shifting down or up and tada spots avoided, but driving a motorcycle on post or any area where ya don’t want to be the asshole with a screaming exhaust at 5am... one tends to find those trouble spots.

At anycase with that gearing, it gained a few more mph at maxing out speed, raced to the powerband with ease, and I loved it. But it did come with a cost of losing some of those always smooth down low parts(but one learns to avoid the bad spots anyway). If nothing else, it’s worth being mindful about. Rocking different sized sprockets on the 600 will put some strain on the low rpm stuff in various ways espically something like a +1/-2 setup.

As for best way to strip and prep for powder coating... the best would be a chemical strip dipped into a vat then a dusting of media blasting. Of course bearings and such all pulled first. Usually can find a place in a industrial park that’ll blast anything for around 30-75 bucks, just drive around and look for a place that has rusty and shiney crap in their lot. But when ya hand it off be sure to tape up any of the bearing seats and threaded areas, and make it extremely clear to them to not blast the tape. Pretty common to google a place that offers sand blasting and find reviews where they blasted a wheel bearing seat making it unusable. (Usually a angry review, but hell it is not the blasters fault if prep wasn’t done)

As for that pump and tank delima. Why not go for a non oem tank if you know it’s gona sit for a long long time. Atleast then your tank isn’t rusting out if ya get away from a steel tank. Someday when there’s 2000$ burning a hole in my pocket, I will buy the carbon tank from Fuelcel for the similar reasoning of letting it park longer.

 

[Jamiedee95]

Monolith, found that there was a K&N filter in the bike. Got an oem paper on its way to me now.

Do you mind if I ask why there are issues with a K&N? Is this a known issue?

 

[bentoverhard69]

Unless it was super dirty and clogged up, an air filter won't be your problem. Sounds more like a fuel or an electrical problem than air... Might need to pull apart and clean your carbs

Sent from my CPH1941 using Tapatalk

 

[TwistedMister]

man I wish I had the dough for a kevlar tank, stainless? aluminum? right now 600 has Ethanol free in it and I have plugged the exhaust tip and blocked ram air inlets, WORKS

the fuel isn't evaporating out of the floats I know this cuz it fires right up after sitting 2 weeks, before plugging off and E free gas, 1 week and the float bowls are dry and I have to use all of the battery priming those carbs again, even having to put the charger on it cuz it drains priming those carbs..

huge relief knowing those carbs aren't drying up or having to start it every 4 days just to keep em primed and everything wet..

600 has so many new OEM parts, all sorts of stuff, basically everything is new, cables, all hoses, brakes, chain sprox, cushy new grips, clock bezel, fuel pump, plugs oil filter, tires, bearings, many new bolts grommets and fasteners, sourced all clips and brackets, its clean.. sure I have at least $2k in receipts if not more? its as complete as the day it came off the floor save the paperwork, looking for that if anyone has it, I have the tool kit and new strap but really would like to have the owners manual to complete it..

having the manual might motivate me to go ahead and buy that decal kit and paint the bike in a good stock color graphics? yellow black looks easiest, then maybe do the 750? I have a new spray kit, just need oilless compressor and rig up a small station, visqueen and a PVC frame, toss a couple heppa filters in front of a couple fans and call it good, point em outside.. just do it! uh huh...

600 really needs a 750 front end IMHO, its not horrible, but its not good either, works... but it is a hard ride compared to Busa, vibration is almost nil tho and that helps eliminate wrist pump and arm pump, it was bad but syncing and dialing in the carbs really smoothed things out plus I use the big heavy bar ends off Hayabusa's, they are heavy and large, absorb a lot of that fine vibration that tends to leave your hands all tingly after a few hunnerd miles..

with risers and a tall bubble I would have no issues taking this bike on 400+ mile a day rides, specially with weight matched 750 suspension set on the soft "touring" side of the dials...

I put genmar risers on the Busa what a difference, easier on the back, wrists, arms, and elbows..

got to empty that 750 tank and get into that... then the frame and swingarm... pretty sure I have more of that bike than I had of the 600.. its almost complete just ugly, sat outside in weather and sun got real faded has like chemical stains on it?... guess I'll find a shop maybe they do it all strip prep and powder coating? knowing I can fill it up with E free and not worrying about water is big, real burnt out on dealing with rust and gel, destroyed fuel systems... this will be the 5th time... however I imagine once its up and running good as the 600 its going to be my go to bike? Busa is just to big and bulky for those small jaunts to store and what not.. keep the 750 right next to the door, BOOM!

last a ran the 750 it ran real good, sorted the clutch sensor and some wiring as in a new right side control the starter works every time, then it just needed a R/R, went mosfet.. its all wired in all about to come out so I can do the frame and swingarm, gonna go through this one same way, new everything, cables, hoses, all rubber save the ram air boots those are good, look new actually.. but I'll go all new bearings, headstock tapered, swingarm, wheels, maybe even repair the Marcesini 5 spokes and toss em on there after a good paint or powder coating?

where can I get Marchesini bushings and spacers for the SRAD?

 

[TwistedMister]

Thats a great reply thank you very much for your help, I was advised by someone I know to check the exhausts to see if carb balancing was good. I found that they were well out of sync just by feeling for heat. I've took the fairings off and this weekend ill be doing a full service.

Got new oil, oem filters and a carb repair kit so I'm going to give it a big service and strip the carb down and clean it out and try and set it to the haynes manuals description. Ill see how it runs from there. The guy who I got it from had bought it from a dealer in May and they said they had done everything but we know what dealers garages can be like...

A few niggle bits to sort here and there but hopefully will have a bit of an update by the weekend.

Cheers

these carb bikes do not have to sit long with a tank of ethanol unleaded to be destroyed, my Busa gas went bad in 4 months!

had the 600 go in 8 months, done, nothing but jelly at the bottom and carbs destroyed, pump, tank, ugly, keep up on that and pay attention to how you winter it, specially in dry climates, my carbs go dry in 5 days.. means I have to crank and crank to get em primed again, hard on batteries and each time the gas dries up it leaves behind a layer of lacquer.. not good ..

I found E free gas and I am blocking off exhaust and ram air inlets seems to be working? waited two weeks and it fired right up so the gas is not evaporating nearly as quick, most likely due to shutting off the air circulation, gas remains suspended which is good, exactly how long I dunno? 2 weeks is good for me tho, maybe I wait a month next time? so fire it up in 2 weeks that be a month.. it is cooler but either way.. even in winter they dry up fast around here.. jeeez its bad...

I always wondered why guys would put bungs in there exhaust tips, I'd see a red plug and wonder WTF? those dirt bike guys.. to stop the air flow and drying up the carb... kick start priming a carb is a BITHC