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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So I went for a nice 200 mile ride this past weekend, and it went great, however, 5 miles from my house on the way home, my bike died on me while sitting at a red light.

So, I tested the battery, it is shot. No longer holds a charge.

So, I bought a new battery. Bike starts up just fine with new battery. But, just to make sure it was not just the old battery giving me a problem, I decided to make sure that my bike was putting a charge back to the new battery...

Turns out, my bike is no longer putting a charge back to the battery. My new battery gave a 11.7 volt reading at idle, and then while revving, the voltage dropped, it did not raise up as it should. Which means, the bike is no longer putting a charge back into the battery.

So, I have concluded there could be two problems.

1. My voltage regulator is shot
2. My stator is shot

So I figured I would ask you guys first, which is typically the first to go, or which is most common to go bad?

I have been meaning to bring my bike to my local suzuki dealer to get my brake recall master cylinder replaced. I figured I could have the dealer also fix charging issue, but that means $$$$.

I would rather fix it myself and save the cash. Especially if the problem is just the voltage regulator.

Any opinions/help, I would greatly appreciate. Thank you!
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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A quick search could have saved you a lot of writing. K6/7's are notorious for rectifier issues due to placement behind the radiator. And if anyone is keeping track this is now my second post in two days explaining this to someone and it's only Tuesday.
 

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If your battery is loosing voltage my money is on the Stator as the R/R would show an increase in voltage way beyond what would be normal.

But that's not to say the R/R is still good you may have killed it as well best to test both!
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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If your battery is loosing voltage my money is on the Stator as the R/R would show an increase in voltage way beyond what would be normal.

But that's not to say the R/R is still good you may have killed it as well best to test both!
Yes, sometimes that's true but more often than not it stops working or puts out diminished voltage. Search rectifier and see how often it's the rectifier vs. the stator as these bikes have rectifier issues because it is mounted right behind the radiator so it doesn't cool effectively as it is bathed in heat. I would guesstimate that is somewhere in the 1 to 20 ratio rectifier to stator, although sometimes one takes out the other but so can a bum battery, so be prepared to replace rectifier and/or stator and/or battery as these batteries don't take well to being discharged. Always test stator, rectifier AND the battery, the service manual has how to test the charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I also found out today that I likely fried my rectifier regardless, because when the first battery originally died, I got it jumped so I could make it the rest of the way home. Was told that using a car to jump my bike likely fried the rectifier. Is this true? However, odds are in my favor that the rectifier was fried anyways prior to me jumping the bike. So no harm done anyway.

Even with that, I think I am going to buy a new rectifier as step one, especially since the chances are higher that the rectifier is the problem over the stator. I will test both this weekend to confirm, but if my tests only prove that the rectifier is the problem, at least I have the rectifier on the way.

With that being said, does anyone have any good recommendations of rectifiers to buy? Or should I just check out what ebay has to offer and get a good deal.

Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've been told to replace both all at once as well, even if it is just the rectifier that has the issue? What you guys think?
 

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I'd suggest OEM&change the mounting location.
Sammy what sayeth thou?
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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If you jumped the bike with a car running, yes you can do extensive damage but it wont be to the rectifier. It will cook the battery and could possibly fry the ECU as well, always if you must jump from a car it should not be running. Likely culprit is the rectifier but with that being said, we don't know if the battery was good before the car jumping incident so we don't know if the battery cooked the rectifier due to battery never being fully charged or jumping from the car did the battery in. You can take the rectifier off and see if there are burn marks for starters. Some here say replace stator and rectifier together but most say test the stator and if it tests good, don't replace. You can pop it open and see if there are any burnt coils. When replacing the rectifier:

1. Get a mosfet as they run cooler: http://roadstercycle.com/
2. Relocate the rectifier away from the radiator






Fried stator:



Fried rectifier:




Relocated rectifier:

 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the info Samantha.

The battery that was in the bike when I jumped using the car is shot. I already purchased a new battery (one that has never been jumped by a car), and currently have that new battery in the bike.

Like I said in the first post of this thread, after I charged the new battery I bought, it read 11.7 volts yesterday (after a short ride on the bike, less than 5 miles) When I got back from the ride, I checked the voltage while revving to 5000 rpm. It dropped slightly below 11.7 when I revved to 5000 rpm. So I know my battery is not receiving any charge back from the bike.

I suppose my next step now is to take the rectifier off and look for the burn marks as you said. I can also test the stator as this video demonstrates:

http://youtu.be/PevgFfi_oaY?t=3m

The mechanic where at the golf course where I work says he would put his money on it being the rectifier, as those go much more frequently compared to the stator. I certainly hope he is right, I hope it is just the rectifier and not the stator.

Is this a good mosfit rectifier that would do the job? If not, what would you recommend?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosfet-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Suzuki-Boulevard-GSXR-Bandit-2003-2011-/231362720790?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2007%7CModel%3AGSXR600&hash=item35de4af416&vxp=mtr
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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As most mosfet rectifiers are around $130 I would be skeptical of one for $35 but then I was taught "You get what you pay for" but what's the worst that could happen, $35 rectifier, maybe $80 battery, getting stranded on a ride?
 

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Take a look at Rick electrics.com he reco's OEM stators and sell Rectifiers and makes them better then OEM and his prices are very good compared to buying from a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I purchased a new Ricks rectifier as well as a stator. Figured I would replace both of them since they work together with one another. It was highly recommended to replace both from the dealer
 
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My rectifier looks to be in a rougher shape than that and still tests fine. I used the test from the service manual. Its easy and very accurate. So ive left mine in the stock place and havent had any problems with it even in +110 degree weather. The relocation doesnt hurt though. I was considering it when mine went out but it never did.

Good call on the ricks electronics stator. I personally wouldve tested mine first to see if i can save some cash, but now you dont need to worry about that. Remember to also get a new gasket for the stator cover and dont overtorque the bolts when you put it back together.
 
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