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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2007 GSXR 1000 (9K miles on dash)

Symptoms:
1). Idle jumps between 1k & 2k rpms.
2). Soon as I go into 1st gear and ease off the clutch, it's like I have to give the bike full throttle for it to move. It kinda sputters / feels jerky at that.
3). It seems to rev fine via throttle handle in Neutral.
4). Seems like the exhaust pipes on cylinders 2 & 3 are way hotter than cylinders 1 & 4. Cylinder 4 gets warmer than cylinder 1, but not as hot as 2 & 3.

Tested:
1). Ignition coils via tester w/ power light. All four coils are getting good power.
2). I unplugged each coil one at a time and attempted to start bike. Bike will not start if coils 2 & 3 are unplugged(testing them one at a time). However, the bike will start & run if either coils 1 &/or 4 are unplugged.

What I've replaced:
Spark plugs, coils, air filter, new fuel pump, new fuel hose from tank to fuel rail ( no more kinks), no codes showing in dealer mode either. No visible vacuum leaks found. Battery is good as well.

Mods / Aftermarket:
1). Yoshi exhaust(02 sensor plug-in delete, exhaust 02 sensor hole capped)..
2). Exhaust valve wire clipped to keep butterfly valve open. (I didn't do this, but I checked the ecm/ecu and it was clipped already).

I'm thinking either it's either
A). Faulty injectors.
B). Faulty coils on cylinders 1 & 4. (I'm aware that they could be out of spec via Ohm meter testing, but I haven't gotten that far just yet).
C). Butterfly value on exhaust could be in the closed position).

I'm no pro at this, but I try to research as much as possible before hitting the forums. I've heard the possible stator being an issue / recall on this model, but I'm unsure if that applies to the symptoms I'm experiencing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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;Blink....What are going to use for clutch fluid?
FyI...only wet clutch motorcycle oil Should be in there. You really need a manual. If you do not know that the clutch is in the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a manual and using dot 4 brake fluid spec'd for this bike. This will be one more item checked off the troubleshooting bucket list.
 

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Your pics seem to show something sprayed onto things around the reservoir as if someone used a black spray can from about 18" away. What's that about? I don't have a hydraulic clutch but gather that dirty fluid is normal.

See this, especially #9.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So a little back story without going to deep i to my personal life. My wife suffers from BPD(Borderline Personality Disorder). One of her temporary calming mechanisms is starting projects, and never finishing them. I gave her my bike so she could just enjoy riding while I fix the bike she so-called attempted to fix. Fast-forward.....she didn't take apart the fairings before painting the bike 😞. I've since replaced the entire fairing set as well as other parts.

So basically, I'm trying to get this bike back to basic running condition. I know she had wired the fuel pump wrong. She had the ground wire going to a positive wire. I swapped those 2 and now the pump is running. Im wondering if the other 2 positive wires need to be swapped. I can't seem to find a good picture of the connectors and wire color diagram. That could also be a reason the bike seems like it's starving for fuel. But it will rev just fine in Neutral / throttle. Soon as it's in gear I can almost punch the throttle and it barely wants to move. If it were a car I'd think fuel restrictions or air. Even with a misfire, it won't be as bad as this.
 

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Download the K7/K8 service manual if you don't already have it. It's somewhere on the internet and the wiring diagram is at the back. Then download the K5/K6 wiring diagram from here. It has great commonality with K7/K8 and shows the wire color/position for many connectors. It won't show the steering damper, ISC, HO2 sensor, or clutch switch. The ECM pinouts will be completely different but they are listed in ECM pinouts.xls. Between the three, you should have enough to go through every connector on the bike and sort them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Quick post bump.

I just removed the exhaust and check the set valve and it was stuck closed. I also checked with turning the key and putting the switch to on. Still stuck closed. I had to use a socket and ratchet to break it free, and now i can turn it by hand rather easily. I either fixed it or broke it. Should it be able to move from open to close by hand rather freely?
 
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