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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First I'll introduce myself. I'm Gary from Washington, DC. I've had my K5 for 2 months and it's already lowered, strecthed and geared for the 1/4 mile. I've been reading posts here for about 6 months now and I'm going to start sharing valuable information that will be of use to fellow K5 owners. Anybody who has used the K5 for any type of drag racing knows that the clutch is a mystery because I've seen guys with 300 miles THINK they've killed the clutches after various 1/4 mile passes. Read this very carefully: YOU MUST KEEP AN EYE ON THE TENSION OF THE CLUTCH ROD FOR LONG CLUTCH LIFE! Here's how: Screw the clutch adjuster nut on the clutch lever all the way in 2) Remove the 19mm nut on the clutch cover (where the oil sight glass is) 3) Hold the 12mm nut with a wrench and loosen the 10mm then turn the phillips head nut snug, then back it out ONE TURN then lock the 10mm nut back and replace the 19mm nuton the clutch cover. 4) Lastly, readjust the slack on the clutch adjuster nut on the clutch lever to take and play out of the lever and you're done! I've gotten 40 passes on my clutches because I keep an eye on the clutch rod adjustment and now you can too! What happens with this bike is that with all the dragracing, you will find yourself turning out the clutch adjuster nut on the handlebar to take the slack out. Just don't forget to start checking to make sure that you have ONE TURN on that phillips head nut in the future. I'm going to post pictures of my bike shortly. I have a Adams Performance 0-6" swingarm, Pirelli Supercorsa Supersoft tire, Akrapovic Evo 2 exhaust, PC3, Spencer Cycle lowering links and a DID 50 ERV X Ring chain with Vortex sprockets. Stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I almost forgot! If you have experinced clutch slippage, do the procedure above and they will return to normal if you haven't continued to burn them to hell and back. I've saved 3 bikes that had slipping clutches and they're still racing. Good luck!
 

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Chubby Chaser
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I remember when someone had mentioned something about this a while ago. At some Suzuki tech briefing they mentioned something about the clutch not being to happy with being drag raced???

But then again, ZX's have slipper clutches too, so..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As long as there is play in the clutch rod, you can thrash the fukk out of these clutches! When the slack is gone in the clutch rod, the slippage with begin. Besides, at $17 per Fiber plate it'll make you start checking that clutch rod slack with the quickness! This bike has 10 fiber plates and I believe three of them are different. I have an extra set I bought from Lee's Performance because all the dealers in the Washington, DC Area are out of stock on the clutches so take precautions people.
 

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thanks wish suzuki reps would have told me that when i bought the bike im suppose to get it back on tues, i had all fibers an steel replaced took 2.5 weeks just to get parts Thanks for the info though. anyway you can post pics of where you actually make the adjustment thanks again
 

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Chubby Chaser
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Do EBC or Barnett have clutch plate sets for the K5 yet? Usually buying OEM Suzuki stuff is alot pricier and sometimes the aftermarket kits are alot more durable, when I used to ride motocross this was the case anyway.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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barnett has the fibers avail now an will a full kit in abt 30 days, lol trust me i did alot of calling around

That's good to know. Better price I'd hope too yes?
 

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They dont use Fiber on their drive plates anymore, they use paper.

I assume u are talken about the worm gear adjustment? The one that has been disscussed over and over in here. And the same one tons of dealers never check.

D
 

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thanks wish suzuki reps would have told me that when i bought the bike im suppose to get it back on tues, i had all fibers an steel replaced took 2.5 weeks just to get parts Thanks for the info though. anyway you can post pics of where you actually make the adjustment thanks again
Amazing that you rode the bike long enough to burn the clutch without even realizing it. If the clutch slips you will know it and obviously you ignored it.
 

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First I'll introduce myself. I'm Gary from Washington, DC. I've had my K5 for 2 months and it's already lowered, strecthed and geared for the 1/4 mile. I've been reading posts here for about 6 months now and I'm going to start sharing valuable information that will be of use to fellow K5 owners. Anybody who has used the K5 for any type of drag racing knows that the clutch is a mystery because I've seen guys with 300 miles THINK they've killed the clutches after various 1/4 mile passes. Read this very carefully: YOU MUST KEEP AN EYE ON THE TENSION OF THE CLUTCH ROD FOR LONG CLUTCH LIFE! Here's how: Screw the clutch adjuster nut on the clutch lever all the way in 2) Remove the 19mm nut on the clutch cover (where the oil sight glass is) 3) Hold the 12mm nut with a wrench and loosen the 10mm then turn the phillips head nut snug, then back it out ONE TURN then lock the 10mm nut back and replace the 19mm nuton the clutch cover. 4) Lastly, readjust the slack on the clutch adjuster nut on the clutch lever to take and play out of the lever and you're done! I've gotten 40 passes on my clutches because I keep an eye on the clutch rod adjustment and now you can too! What happens with this bike is that with all the dragracing, you will find yourself turning out the clutch adjuster nut on the handlebar to take the slack out. Just don't forget to start checking to make sure that you have ONE TURN on that phillips head nut in the future. I'm going to post pictures of my bike shortly. I have a Adams Performance 0-6" swingarm, Pirelli Supercorsa Supersoft tire, Akrapovic Evo 2 exhaust, PC3, Spencer Cycle lowering links and a DID 50 ERV X Ring chain with Vortex sprockets. Stay tuned...
Yes good information to know. Unfortunately some owners don't take the time to learn and do their own maintenance or they don't have the experience to know how these machines are suppose to work, and that can be costly. Many of the dealers are incapable of quality work and they don't care enough about the customers or their bikes.
 

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They dont use Fiber on their drive plates anymore, they use paper.

I assume u are talken about the worm gear adjustment? The one that has been disscussed over and over in here. And the same one tons of dealers never check.

D
^^^^^^^agreed.

Hey Ridden thanks again for walking me through the process


Keep the reports coming by all means though, drag racing's gotta be pretty hard on everything so let us know what else you find
 

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thanks wish suzuki reps would have told me that when i bought the bike im suppose to get it back on tues, i had all fibers an steel replaced took 2.5 weeks just to get parts Thanks for the info though. anyway you can post pics of where you actually make the adjustment thanks again
Amazing that you rode the bike long enough to burn the clutch without even realizing it. If the clutch slips you will know it and obviously you ignored it.

First off all maybe u should gett the whole story before you start talking shit i had only had the bike for 3 days for one an i was getting used to riding its the first gsxr100 i have ever owned my tl had a hydro cluctch i have been driving a vtwin for years so i was getting used to riding a 4cycl again an it went unoticed once the bike was definately slipping i took it in, an second i have never burned up a clutch before or had one slip so i didnt know what ot expect
 

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what about backing out the slipper adjustment pins to keep the clutch locked when it is released fully and not allowing it to slip?
 

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thanks wish suzuki reps would have told me that when i bought the bike im suppose to get it back on tues, i had all fibers an steel replaced took 2.5 weeks just to get parts Thanks for the info though. anyway you can post pics of where you actually make the adjustment thanks again
Amazing that you rode the bike long enough to burn the clutch without even realizing it. If the clutch slips you will know it and obviously you ignored it.

First off all maybe u should gett the whole story before you start talking shit i had only had the bike for 3 days for one an i was getting used to riding its the first gsxr100 i have ever owned my tl had a hydro cluctch i have been driving a vtwin for years so i was getting used to riding a 4cycl again an it went unoticed once the bike was definately slipping i took it in, an second i have never burned up a clutch before or had one slip so i didnt know what ot expect

Well don't get too worked up it's only a clutch I guess and I may have taken the wrong approach on your situation.


At this point the whole K5 deal is becoming a bad subject in my mind after seeing a supersport bike frame tore in half at Pikes Peak and there may be questions to the integrity of the welds on the K5's frame. I was silly to think that this new bike was going to be flawless. As is always the case whenever a brand new design comes out there are lot's of bugs and kinks to work out for the second run, but bad welds is a really bad sign and inexcusable. I should have waited for the '06 or bought a Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It says 1/2 turn? Great! I took the 1 whole turn advice from Lee Shierts of Lee's Performance where I'm getting the motor built but the manual is the Bible so go 1/2 turn...
 
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