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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone modified their stock exhaust to make it sound better? Since K3 stock exhausts aren't hard to come by cheap, I figured that it wouldn't hurt to try to make it sound a bit more muscular without dropping $400 on a bolt-on can.

I've tried searching the forum, but the search function here ain't too helpful--I get 100 results, top, and many of them are from the same thread! (I probably am not using it right, admittedly.) I'm toying with the idea of selling my K3 to buy a K5, and I'm not sure if I should go dumping cash on a pipe, Power Commander and K&N since that won't help resale at all, but I am really tired of the stock exhaust.

So if you've drilled out your stock pipe or know someone who has, please link me to it so I know how they did it and how they like it. Thanks!
 

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i tried with an extra can... did like three holes and it sounded just OK, i mean if you really strain you can tell a difference, then went nuts and drilled like 10 holes and it sounded like crap
 

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i tried with an extra can... did like three holes and it sounded just OK, i mean if you really strain you can tell a difference, then went nuts and drilled like 10 holes and it sounded like crap
I put 9 in mine and it sounds great to me, however its not the low tone as the aftermarket ones...
 

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si9 has...
maybe he'll chime in....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where do you guys drill the holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
But the stock can is so heavy and ugly, why not just a get a $100 aftermarket exhaust that is a hundred times nicer?


It doesn't feel particularly heavy at all--it is titanium, after all. I don't think it's ugly either.

And the cheapest bolt-on cans are at least $200--if you buy a Yana Shiki on Ebay.
The Two brothers cans I was looking at are ~$300 for aluminum and ~400 for titanium.
 

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You can find a mint used Ti can for 150-200.

I think drilling holes is kind of cheesy IMO
i pretty much agree, but it was going in the garbage or back of the garage for eternity otherwise, more of an experiment for me than an actual 'mod'
 

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I've got mine sounding really, really nice. I have tried it before with other bikes and had crap results with a really tinny note. But this one i've got really, really deep. It's pretty close in sound to a Akro / Yoshi and the tuner who did the custom map was very impressed by the flow characteristics - again, luck. You need to grind off the welds that hold the end plate on, a dremel or similar will suffice.
I've had a lot of queries on what i've done so i threw this together. If you cannot follow it, email me and i'll take some photo's of the actual pipe. I really wish I could let you guys hear this noise from this pipe....

 

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Why did you cut off the inner pipe? How did you remove the shavings (from drilling)?
Is there a risk that left over shavings can get sucked into the engine on start-up perhaps?
 

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how did you put the end cap back on? Do you have any pics of the end cap on the bike?
I have been trying to figure out how to do the same thing. I know you purchase innners for other pipes. I was hopping to gut it out and replace the inners.
 

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You don't need to mess with the end cap at all. Where the can unbolts from the mid pip, just stick the drill bit from that end and the baffle is right there. I have no idea what that dude took the end cap off
 

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The end cap is held on by 3 small allen key bolts which are welded to prevent access into the internals. If you lightly grind these welds you can then undo the 3 bolts and the cap will then fall off. This will allow you to drill some holes behind the end cap, so you cannot see the holes, when the cap is back on. AND it helps with cutting the smaller inner, end pipe off.
The smaller inner pipe was cut off because that's what produces the tinny noise, and the can now looks from back on like a normal performance 3 inch outlet. THIS is a must for the deeper sounds. - if you blow through a straw it will buzz, if you blow through a 3 inch pipe, it's will sound like a Tuba !
I used a vaccuum to remove all the shavings from drilling, and I doubt there is any chance what so ever of fillings getting into the head. But make sure it's cleaned out anyway's...
If you do not "modify" the baffles at both ends then you will not be improving flow rate on the can, so if you are going to do it - do it to some extent, properly. It took me about 3 hours of fuggin around, and then afew more "getting the number" of holes right for the best sounds.
Si.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
si9, thanks for the suggestions and the very-helpful diagram. I'll give this a shot over the next couple of days.
 

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schweet diagram bro. i cut and welded my stock 03 gsxr 1000 can.. took about 5-6 inches off so i can 12 o'clock it w/o scrapping it.. was easy and tis actually sounds pretty tits
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Do you have to re map?
According to si9, the modded muffler flows a good bit better than stock, so it will probably lean out the engine a bit. However, I'd be surprised if it magically flowed better than the better aftermarket cans, and the traditional thinking is that you don't NEED to remap with just a bolt-on can.

I'm working on mine right now--I've got the cap off and I'm about to cut out the tube inside. It's pretty easy--I just need to wait till tomorrow to go to the hardware store to buy a long 13mm drill bit. So I'll post my results as soon as I've got 'em. :fingerscrossed:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was going to take pics while working on mine, but si9's diagram is more than sufficient for anyone wanting to undertake this. It's very simple and straightforward.
 
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