The ONLY rattle can paint you should use is Krylon Fusion.
You probably still need to use a filler primer under it.
Still need several packs of wet sandpaper, painters tape, wire hangers to hang the parts, thinner. You need to stay away from grits coarser than 320 unless you are removing some BAD scrape damage. A couple of buckets wouldn't hurt you don't want to rinse the wet paper of one grit into the same bucket you'll be rinsing a finer paper -chance of picking up coarser grit on the fine paper-. If you don't have a rubber sanding block a sponge should do. You really need to do a good job of clean up between grits, should try to use the same grit on all the pieces at the same time. Clean every thing, canned air -compressed air- in all the crevasses. Although you want to paint everything at the same time you shouldn't have all the pieces in the same room. You'll get overspray 'dust' on the unpainted pieces, conversely, you want to move the painted pieces out of the paint room before painting the next piece. Don't try covering/uncovering pieces in the paint room after you start painting -overspray dust again-. Pick which color you want to be the base and paint it all at the same time -all the pieces, solid blue or white-.
Tape it off after a couple days of drying time you'll probably have to lightly scuff it with 600 or 800 grit, a good wipe down with a tack cloth and compresses air.
Then paint the second color. the fusion paint goes on pretty nice but you will be pressed for time on the tank and larger fairing pieces because you are using spray cans. The overlaps need to be as far apart as you can get with out the individual passes 'drying' before the last pass in the same direction tacks hard. Otherwise you will have a partially rough finish. To give you an Idea:
Fins something about the same size -roughly- as your biggest piece.
Just start painting...do you start in the middle and work out?... nope
Do you start from both ends and work towards the center? ...nope
If at all possible work from one end/side toward the middle then depending on your skill level and continue to the far side. Keep in mind these are rattle cans and you have to get a quick look at the nozzle to prevent drips -wipe it on a shirtsleeve or glove -. You also have to watch out where the back of the can is at so it doesn't touch down on painted areas, and if you are leaning over a painted piece YOU or your clothes can touch down. You also need to get one of those trigger type paint can attachments (about $2.00) so your wrist or finger doesn't numb/cramp up and you try to get in a hurry. It can be done and nicely at that but you need to practice laying the paint. I can use two cans at once which helps but I've had a lot of touch up practice. I did my son's front end on his Porsche 928 and it looks great, I mean it's eyeball close inspectable. However the extreme width and length of the hood kept me from painting with cans . So fenders yes, hood no.
Preparation is where you win or lose on a paint job, NO CLUTTER, all the cans pre shook. Don't worry about Suzuki Blue. just get as close as the Fusion paint will allow same for the white.
Practice, practice, practice with some cheap paint before you do this.
hmy
