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When do you change your oil? (street riding)


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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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When I had street bikes I would change the oil/filter every 3,000 miles, never more, sometimes less. I use Royal Purple Max-Cycle full synthetic oil in all my bikes, many of which had well over 50k miles on them, and I have never had a single engine issue.

I dislike Amsoil, and will never support them or their products.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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If you pull a sample of your bike's oil at 3K miles and send it to Blackstone Labs for analysis they will tell you what's what and whether or not you need to change your oil earlier or let it go longer.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/motorcycle.php

Obviously there's various considerations that can affect your oil life depending on if its a track/race bike or a street bike, if you're using synthetic or regular petroleum based oil. Also a bike has the engine and the tranny sharing the same oil unlike a car so the oil usually gets polluted a little sooner than cars.


Of course a company that sells oil is going to tell you to change it more often so I wouldn't take their word at all.....I'm not particularly partial to Amsoil's business practices either.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
True, this is fully synthetic.
Yeah, what's up with the negativity against Amsoil, never heard of this, enlighten me? I know quite a few people and some motor builders that swear by it.

Besides Amsoil provides all viscosities, hths value, vi, noack, tbn, etc. for each oil they make; While Royal Purp leaves you completely in the dark. So, basically you are buying Royal solely on marketing hype. Doesn't make sense to me.
 

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No, I buy Royal Purple because of experience and real world testing...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Those guys over at blackstone-labs seem pretty cool. I'll probably do an analysis with them.

This is what they had to say in an email:
"We suggest sticking with the oil that's recommended by Suzuki, but we don't think using Amsoil will cause any issues. You're wondering how well this oil stands up against others, and we'd say it does just fine. Honestly, we don't see enough of a difference in wear between oils to recommend one over the other, so it's really up to you and how much you're willing to spend.

The wear metals we find are mostly due to the type of use the engine sees and how well internal parts are wearing in relation to one another. The oil type doesn't really make a difference since a poorly wearing engine will continue to wear poorly, regardless of the oil. The same is true for a nicely wearing engine.

Personally, if this were my bike and my analysis came back favorable, then I'd just stick with the same oil, but maybe adjust my interval based on the type of use the engine sees over the course of the oil run. If you find yourself being a bit rough on the engine (track use, racing, or generally harder use), then you might cut the oil run a bit short. If it was easy riding and you were mostly cruising, then you could probably let the oil stay in place a little longer.

We'll be able to help you out a lot more once we see how your engine is wearing. Once you see the results, you can decide if you'd like to experiment with different oils or stick with Amsoil. It doesn't hurt to experiment, and we actually encourage it since there are factors that we can't see in analysis that might impact your decision (the engine might run smoother or make less noise, for example).

If everything is fine on your end, I'd stick with Amsoil for now and wait to see the results.

If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.

Thanks for contacting Blackstone!

Samir Kharbas
Blackstone Laboratories "
 

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Chubby Chaser
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True, this is fully synthetic.
Yeah, what's up with the negativity against Amsoil, never heard of this, enlighten me? I know quite a few people and some motor builders that swear by it.

Besides Amsoil provides all viscosities, hths value, vi, noack, tbn, etc. for each oil they make; While Royal Purp leaves you completely in the dark. So, basically you are buying Royal solely on marketing hype. Doesn't make sense to me.

Their product in and of itself is fine. Its no better or worse than any of the good synthetic motor oils out there. I tend to find they charge more for it and I just find their business practices and MLM design model to be off putting so I choose to not use their products. I don't particularly like any company that uses an MLM/pyramid type business model.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
True, fair enough.

After reading around on bobistheoildguy's forum, a lot of people are saying it's more cost effective to just buy the cheaper oils and change more frequently than waste money on the expensive stuff to gain an extra few thousand miles. Because even the cheap oil's don't break down in that amount of time.
 

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On my stock engine bikes I follow Anthony's guidelines. However,if its a brand new bike w zero miles&I'm breaking the engine in I drop the oil/filter after the initial 100mi,then again at 300mi and once again at 600mi.

On my N/A modded engines I change the oil and filter around 2500mi. I drop the engine pan and look for any brass shavings or any material the magnetic drain plug may not capture. I also strain the oil thru a paper filter the autobody painters use before I dump it into my used oil drum. I will also inspect and clean the oil pickup every other oil/filter change. (Same break-in protocol as posted above)

If I take the bike to the drag strip,I dump the oil/filter once I get the bike back home; regardless of how many miles are on it. You'd be surprised what a decent amount of clutch dust will do.

On my turbo engines,it depends on how hard&how long Im on the boost. If Im beating on them and staying in the boost for long periods in the upper gears,I'll dump the oil/filter after a few hundred miles of use or after each trip to the drag strip. If Im riding normal and just boost for a few seconds in each gear than I will change oil/filter 500-750miles.

Changing the oil frequently on a boosted engine that is making anywhere from 2x-4x more horsepower than stock;(especially since turbo life is directly related to oil quality/quantity)is cheap insurance on a engine that costs upwards of $7000 to replace
 

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..I don't particularly like any company that uses an MLM/pyramid type business model.
I find it interesting that Amway and Amsoil share that same concept,and sound alike as well....Hmmm....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the advice, I completely understand the whole mentality of after the track/strip changing the oil when you get back. My miles so far are just cruising, I do usually try and hit 100-130mph whenever I go out. But I have yet to hit the rev limiter :D

Your bikes sound sick, do you have any pics?
 

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Thanks for the advice, I completely understand the whole mentality of after the track/strip changing the oil when you get back. My miles so far are just cruising, I do usually try and hit 100-130mph whenever I go out. But I have yet to hit the rev limiter :D

Your bikes sound sick, do you have any pics?
Thanks. Im on my phone,so this is all I have. There are lots of em that I have posted on the site if u search. Hold on...that didnt work,let me try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I will, thanks man.
God damn those builds look awesome!
 

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My new motor break in ritual is similar to oldgixxer's, just more frequent. I do the first at 20 miles, then 100, then 500.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Lol... funny I was just watching that movie the other night. Go!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What filters do you guys recommend? I was going with K&N but I'm going to try WIX now.
 

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OEM or K&N
 
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