All your engine questions here......

SmurfOnAGixxer said:

When are you getting the codes to come on? Like give me all the details, speed, rpm, amount of boost.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

The reason its breaking up is because its way too rich.

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When i first noticed the problem it would breal up around 6k-7k rpm and would have a hard time pulling past that. The FI light would only come on under hard acceleration. Normal round the town driving seemed fine. I changed the plugs to see if that was the problem and put good gas in it. Plugs looked good upon inspection, no white spots on the plugs signaling detonation. Took it out for a long ride normal driving. Stopped and made a few blast and it seemed to pull alot better with out breaking up but still with some hesitation but not nearly as bad as before. Made about 4 passes all together. 2nd pass the FI light came on. Accidently turned off bike so i cldnt get the code, on the 4th pass got it to come on and thus the Codes. All 4 passes where way better than before; maybe because of the plugs, im not sure? But it wasnt nearly as bad and Rpms reached up to 14k if memory serves me correct. I noticed some hesitation during all these runs but nothing nearlly as bad as before. The FI light goes off when the bike it shut off and doesnt come on again until hard acceleration; sometimes. I also just noticed what looks like coolant leaking from some where? Not sure what its about, but im about to take the fairing off and see where its coming from. I thought the issue was being caused by a lean condition? What should Fuel Pressure be at idle, so I can check next time.

You might have a high spike in a spark stick? Gotta get that code out. It is saved in memory and it may take so many key starts to clear the ECU itself. I think I read that in the FSM. So, even if in phantomode is what you are experiencing, that phantom code is stored and if you can get that spark stick code say, it might be a spark stick #3 is just a diagnostic guess over the net. Might not be it at all me chasing tail not knowing that code. Fun trying though.

Then again, it could be the ECU. Might be a registry someplace in the upper a-N signal not making it in the diode is circuit board relay or some sort of internal integrity breakdown is another possibility, but I doubt it.

Could be a harmonic connection at the connectors are momentarily losing a signal, spike the code, reconnect inside the connector pins and the code clears on it's own which is an ECU working correctly.

Yes, the plugs could be the better tune most likely in my opinion, (might agree with yours on plug swap). That was your only change to the same phantom code spike(s). Fuel pressure is about 43 pea yes I would give or take a pound either way idle or running.

CHIP, or TIM

I have a few random questions if you don't mind.

Have you ever tried zero gap rings and if so what was your experience? I am interested in them to be sure.

Building an 07 G1K motor for drag racing and hopefully lots of N2O. What top and 2nd ring gaps should I be looking for? It's J&E + 2mm (or is it 3?)

I was told .013 top, and .014 2nd. But I do not understand why the 2nd would be more? Also the stock ring end gaps butted together causing this build, and I don't want the same thing to happen again. Want the gaps as tight as possible for the non N2O pass's, but don't want to take a chance of running it too tight and having them fail again.

what squish for this motor? I was planning on trying to get to .027, as I have tried that before on a NA 04 G1K and it did not touch But honestly I am new to motor building and don't know if a tight squish is bad with N2O?

the bike has 8 injectors. My understanding is that the bottom four run most of the time, and the top 4 only come on at high rpm at big throttle settings. When they come on are the bottom 4 still working? We just got another power commander to use in conjunction with our other one so we can map it using all eight, though to be honest I have never hooked two up to the same bike and don't really understand how it works.

We have a multi function hub with the user switch and currently have custom street and N2O maps, which will be retuned once the motor is back together.

any power to be found with valve clearances?

does a Busa oil pressure relief valve have a higher release pressure than a G1K's?

what can be done to increase the reliability of this motor? we already have the higher volume oil pump gear. We are using stock crank and rods.

Does KWS have a cnc program for 5 vlave R1 heads?

Thanks, sorry for all the questions.