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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

I had been fooling around with my TPS sensor and finally found an easy way to set it up right and get rid of the jerkyness of near idle on/off throttle inputs. I had been trying to do it accurately and measure voltages, compare different voltages to throttle jerkyness improvement, etc etc. I found that the easiest/best setting is just to hit the top line like stated in so many other great threads on how to make the adjustment.

Easiest way to get good results is:
1) Adjust sensor when engine is off and cold
2) Make sure when you tighten the sensor down it doesnt move (mine wanted to really bad)
3) You want to park the position so it stays steady on the high line even after snapping the throttle open and closed a few times.

I have thrown a few days and about 150 miles on it without any issues. I finally have tons of throttle control that I was missing before. There is plenty of room just above idle to control engine braking and not just all of it all at once. When you get back into the throttle from idle moving or not there is no huge jerk forward anymore and it feels great.

I had to develope a riding style and throttle control to keep myself from getting the herky/jerky in the middle of a corner in a high angle lean. I am not a super advanced rider so it bothered me probably more than others. Now I am finding that i have to teach myself to get rid of these bad habits and ride it like should be.

I have seen no difference in fuel mileage and the bike runs awesome. I was so close to selling it for another bike. Now I wouldn't give it up for anything. I know there are people out there suffering with this problem and just go for the adjustment!

I know I was tired of hearing people complain about it and I was tired of dealing with it so hopefully we can just lay it to bed and say that the factory calibration expected values are off on the TPS position display. I am not a fan of letting a dealer toy with my bike and start replacing random parts on it to try to solve a problem they don't understand. This worked out well for me and didn't have to spend more than 10 mins doing it.
 

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So you set it so it just hit the high point, then tightened it down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thats it.

if you go the other way I proved it will get worse. I had it set in the low setting and I was nearly getting thrown around on the bike. Only thing saving me was my grip on the tank with my legs at some points. Don't try it, wouldn't suggest it lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I adjusted mine closer to 1300 rpm. You will know if you went way past the high line of the TPS adjustment display because the engine will start to rev up. I didn't have to re-adjust the idle after my tps adjustment.
 

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That TPS setting is so subjective I can only guess some babe on the line had a jacked up voltmeter when she set our bikes. I did the same as you when I fixed mine I tried it in both directions and rode it. PAINFULLY apparent when you go too far the on/off reaction is magnified. Set it just to the high line and it was like getting a new bike. Gas mileage improved as well.
 

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sweet...mine must have moved on me here lately...i had it set at the top of the middle line, and it worked good for a bit, but now its been getting realllly bad. Almost un-ridable at around 1700 rpms on or off the throttle...i will check this tomorrow after work and see what happens...i hope you are right this time!
 

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where is the adjuster located?
Its on the right side of the bike just under the frame below the tank. Easiest access is to remove the right fairing and push the wiring down a bit. Its No. 25 torx screw. Loosen the screw a bit and move the unit. You'll also need to short the 2 pins in the plug under the seat so that you can see the adjustment markers on the dash.

Its a ridiculously fiddley thing to adjust accurately, trying to move it a fraction of a millimetre while dealing with a delay between moving it and the dash indicator registering the new position.

I tried mine as high as possible while still in the middle position and it made zero difference, then I tried to set it so its just into the top position and it has smoothed things out but i can feel where its almost doing the H/J thing. Ive only done a short test ride, will have to wait until the weekend to see if its hidden the symptoms properly ... and see how the fuel consumption goes.
 

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yeah do a search on herky jerky theres been a few good write ups lately some with pic's I believe
 

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I finally adjusted my TPS. It was sitting _COO. To low. Now I have it just at the high setting. Holy smoothness. I'm very happy I did this. When I would hold a steady low rpm in a development, it would horribly jerk around. I just tested it, and it is 90% better, enough to hardly tell. :cheers
 

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Here's a write up I made on it. :cheers


Step 1: Remove front seat
Step 2: Locate Dealer Mode connector, it resides just behind the battery, it is a white connector with a rubber cover on it, it has 5 or 6 wires going into it.
Step 3: Put bike in dealer mode, take a paper clip or a wire with two stripped ends and connect the two pins shown in picture



To ensure the bike is in dealer mode, look at the gauges and the temperature should be replaced with "C00" and a little "-" next to the code, the "-" is what you will be observing while adjusting the throttle position sensor. There are three positions of the "-" (top, middle, bottom)



Step 4: Remove the right side fairing
Step 5: Locate the tamper proof torx screw as seen in pictures below

it's behind the cable bundle you see running along the top of the triangular hole in the frame in this picture






You can get the torx head screwdrivers needed for this screw at any auto parts store, just ask them where to find the tamper proof torx screwdrivers. I couldn't find my torx head driver, so I'm unsure of the proper size needed.

Step 6: VERY Slightly loosen the torx screw (the black plastic piece behind the torx screw is your TPS)
Step 7: Reach into the frame and grip the TPS and begin observing the "-" on the gauges. Adjust until the "-" JUST hits the top position. Find the point that it juggles back and forth between middle and top then move it up just far enough that it doesn't juggle anymore. VERY carefully tighten the screw, if you're not careful the TPS will move while you're tightening the screw.

Step 8: Remove paperclip or wire from dealer mode switch, and replace the rubber cap

Step 9: Re-assemble bike and ride it like ya stole it! :cheers:
 

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is the "-" suppoesed to be in the upper or middle posistion?
Per manual: Middle

Per the best performance(IMO, and many others): Just at the point it hits the upper position
 

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Hey,

I had been fooling around with my TPS sensor and finally found an easy way to set it up right and get rid of the jerkyness of near idle on/off throttle inputs. I had been trying to do it accurately and measure voltages, compare different voltages to throttle jerkyness improvement, etc etc.

so do you have the voltage you actually used? Its so much easier when you know what voltage to shoot for where you can read precision to like 3 decimals, as opposed to 1 out of 3 bars...
 
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