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2005 GSXR 600
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Discussion Starter #1
So for my k5 gsxr 600 i Really need some advice for heat shielding on my inner fairings.. i had swapped the headers from stock stainless to titanium 05/06 1k header and paired with a k4 1k midpipe. Long story short had installed some DEI cool tape
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where bung from set valve touches fairing and even tripled it up yet somehow just isn't enough.. had spaced fairings with a few washers but don't want bottom fairing spaced out too far. Figured that cool tape would have worked since from what have been reasaerching seems to have good results.. any help with something else or what maybe doing wrong would be appreciated
 

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2005 GSXR 600
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Discussion Starter #2
Well figured I'd see if anyone may have some tricks or ideas to help me out but guess I'll have to come up with a solution myself. I'm sure will figure it out but would be nice if there was better heat shielding etc available that people know of because the kind I purchased which was supposed to be great is definitely not so great it seems unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I figured I would share the solution to my problem which worked really well so far.. i happened to research Material that were great at shielding heat and came across some puddy like material which can be made from simple ingredients yet have insane heat resistant.. i applied the material inside key hot spots of my fairings and covered again with regular heat shielding. Its crazy how well this worked honest.. this material i took to test first i had flattened it out, placed over a used milk jug and used my propane torch on it and never once got plastic hot underneath and I help torch the for 45 plus seconds. All can say is stuff works great really quite mind blowing impressive stuff!!
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks and honestly put about 150 miles since doing this and not a single spot on my plastics have melted... truly works amazing and saved me from hacking up my plastics which are almost in mint condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The recipe for this puddy is as follows
1 cup corn starch
5 tsp of baking soda
And plain Elmer's school glue(pva glue)
I got the small 4oz size bottle

(Also can cut down mixture to make less puddy if you want to)

You mix the corn starch and baking soda together very well like when you think you have mixed it continue to mix it even more.. you then start adding the glue which i used about half a small 4 0z bottle for this amount of mixture. Just keep kneading the ingredients all together until it turns into a puddy/playdoah like substance. If its still dry just add more glue until get a decent somewhat sticky dough.. i know sounds crazy this even working but you watch and see its insane!! Like I had shown i tested it myself on milk jug with my propane torch and held up no problem and plastic didnt even warp a tiny bit! Give it a try it will blow your mind how well this material hold up to such insane amounts of heat. Your welcome 😉
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Discussion Starter #8
Also may want to wear some latex gloves or equivalent when mixing or your hands may get quite sticky from working the glue into the mix.. believe me you will be amazed that just these 3 ingredients could make something so amazingly heat resistant! Honestly better then any material I have ever seen.. ever!! watch and see when if you decide to make some.
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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So first, take that dangerous POS K&N oil fiter off and replace it with OEM or at least something quality.

Secondly, does your header contact the plastics? Most heat shielding is really good with radiant heat, but direct contact is a different story. The thin reflective tape does ok with radiant heat. Wrapping the pipe with something like Heat Shield Armor would do well as long as there's no contact. It stops heat from getting out, but the metal layer does get pretty hot itself. For preventing heat from getting in, an adhesive backed product with an insulating layer works well. I can't remember the product I used, but I had enough to do the entire belly pan and the bottom of the airbox. It's only 1/8" thick and has been on there for 6 years now. I think it was Summit Racing brand. I gave the rest to a friend for his Vette. I'll message him to see if he still has some so I can tell you exactly what it was. Regardless, if you have contact, that needs to be addressed first.
 

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2005 GSXR 600
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Discussion Starter #10
No the header does not contact the plastic The only place that the exhaust comes into contact with my plastic is where the midpipe is where the bung from the set valve was even after few washers spacing it out. I will admit down at the very bottom where fairings open up in center its very close to touching. So far I have not had single issue since doing what I had with the heat material and also used what I believe was same heat shielding you are describing which was layered fiberglass adhesive backed heat shielding from a company called DEI. Yes i had heard some horror stories about this k&n filter having issues but I have not had any(so far) and only installed this filter as I had it laying around as a spare and was in a pinch at the time.. was going to purshase a hiflo filter and was wondering what your thoughts were? But as far as plastics melting I honestly have not had any issues after doubling up on heat shielding and applying a thin layer of that material had made between the layers honest.
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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The OEM filter is actually really hard to beat.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well i will order the o.e.m filter as you advise. Like had said wasnt really planning to use this k&n but was in a pinch needed oil changed and no local shops in my area who had anything available and due to this whole covid-19 would have probably took a month to recieve anything ordering online.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So anyone who has done the 1k header swap and had concerns around the oil filter removal i can totally confirm that i had no issues removing the filter. My bike is an 05 600 with 05 1k headers for reference. Just wanted to put this out there for others to see if they are unsure about oil filter clearance 😉 ow and the lucky charms box is to keep the oil from pouring all over the headers and allows it to funnel to the drain pan lol
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Discussion Starter #16
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well I decided To ditch the header and go with a full titanium system from yoshimura which i grabbed for decent deal with a carbon trs exhaust. I weighed the header with the midpipe and was only a tad over 4lbs which i thought was pretty amazing considering how heavy the stock sytem weighed!!.also the plus side of no more fairing issues thats involved with the 1k swap which was kind of annoying and really feel like actually gained a few ponies with this full yoshi system. I must say the 1000 header i had was still very decent setup and although I upgraded to this new full sytem I am glad I tried the 1000 swap because overall was alot of fun to experiment with and even though didnt add much power the weight savings was noticeable. Here are few pics of my new exhaust. Also anyone have any input about possibly changing out my exhaust springs with some different style with the sleeve over the spring and if would be beneficial? Let me know please as although these clearly work I like the looks and style of the sleeved springs and guess they help with vibration , wear etc? Idk maybe just waste of money and should keep ones i have. Thanks
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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Two things....

1) Get rid of that POS K&N oil filter. It's junk.

2) M4 uses silicone sleeves over the springs. But they're also embossed with the M4 logo. I think Brocks has some generic ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes yoshimura uses the silicone as well these are just older style springs is all. Mostly I was just curious if it was even worth the time to change them out for silicone style springs. Yes i know all about the k&n filter lol and was going to change it out next oil change itss just what I had available at the time
 
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