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My PCII died; at least that's what I think happened.. (led's still move with the throttle; but engine won't run; remove it and fires up fine.)

So I looked at getting a new one; and while doing that was reading on the FactoryPro ignition advance kit (+4).

I know it was their site (factorypro) but they were making claims that a powercommander doesn't/can't actually modify the igition timing as much as it claims.

This seems pretty bad, and Dynojet would have a hard time selling them as much as they do.

Looking towards track days, and having little cash right now; if I did a factorypro +4; and then replaced the power commander "later" -- would I need to uninstall the factorypro ignition advance? Or let it get tuned/mapped with that in place?

Last question on advances... I remember spending weeks under the hood of my camero fudging with degree'ing the cam. There's no "rule of thumb" with the gsxr750's for grabbing an adjustable cam and degreeing the cam, is there? I won't have access to endless dyno runs; so unless there is a good rule of thumb for degreeing the cam; I'll leave it as is.

Thanks
 

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My understanding (and others will correct me) is that you'll get a boost from the ignition advance, but that the PC will do a better job at overall tuning and keeping idle & ridability. gixxers, if tuned for track only, can be kind of jerky at slow speeds... the PC can adjust timing at specific RPM ranges.

If it's "buy advance now, PCIII next month" -- Save your $ and skip the advance unit.
if it's "buy advance now, PCIII in 6 months" -- I'd probably go for it; especially if you need a winter garage project. When you get a custom map; you don't need to remove the advance, they'll just de-tune the timing back.

Before reading the factory pro site;I hadn't heard that the PC3 can't/doesn't actually adjusting timing as much as claimed. I would think people would have noticed that and rioted.

Skip the cam timing, unless you're racing and have a lot of dyno-time available. I've never heard of a "one size fits all"cam timing adjustment.

Just my $.02 and might be totally wrong/off base.
 

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The PC2 was BAD with timing adjustments. Back in the day, lots of tuners where saying that the PC2 would be all over the place and never really advance the timing at it was stated (you put in +2 and it would jump from 0 to +4 when it felt like it). I dont know how they knew, but that is the claim.

As for the +4 hard set, you will have to run a higher oct fuel then you do now, and if you HAD a custom map, it will need to be mapped again to run correct with the new timing. I doubt they would take timing out using the PC.

Now, if the bike is mostly stock, and your having a hard time with driving it around at low speed, you would be better off going with a TRE first. It is going to cost about 50cents and a little time to get it going (but less then the timing advancer) and will have no ill effect on the bike other then a little less engine braking (not really that noticeable if you ask me).

I would not expect huge numbers from the timing on the bike with a stock motor. It will make it a bit more peppy, and might add a hp or two, but I would say that your better off with a new PC and custom map to get the best response from what you have. Remember, it is not the most peak HP that wins the race, it is the most power that you can deliver to the ground. So if your HP and TQ is smooth, you will be faster then someone that has a HUGE spike in the curve.

John
 

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I doubt they would take timing out using the PC.

My map has a few negative #'s in it; do you think I just had a tuner that did a good job? I thought that any tuner would time as needed; but you think most just advance as needed, not retard?

-josh
 

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It really comes down to the tuner and what your trying to gain from the map.

Some of the tuners I have talked with wont do timing only cause it is so dependent on the fuel, the octane and air, it just isnt worth it to them.

John
 

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In that case, it would seem, that doing a static +4 + a map would be benificial no matter what. If they're not going to touch the timing part of the tune; then go for the +4 static. Most of my map is +2 to +4 in the midrange. -1 and -2 in the low; and 0 top end.
 

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Yes a +4 would be good for most, so long as your running the correct fuel.

Many of our local tuners wouldnt make PC changes cause they where reported to have problems on the timing map not being correct. I think it was more a personal thing from one tuner to the next.

John
 
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