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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Man, my backwheel locks up solid when I get on the brakes hard at high RPM's.
If I am braking 100%, I can't snap a downshift until I am about to flick it in or it locks and slides.

Is the oem clutch adjustable, or does anyone offer a kit to adjust the clutch???
 

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Speedballer347 said:
Man, my backwheel locks up solid when I get on the brakes hard at high RPM's.
If I am braking 100%, I can't snap a downshift until I am about to flick it in or it locks and slides.

Is the oem clutch adjustable, or does anyone offer a kit to adjust the clutch???
Owner's manual?
 

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Speedballer347 said:
Man, my backwheel locks up solid when I get on the brakes hard at high RPM's.
If I am braking 100%, I can't snap a downshift until I am about to flick it in or it locks and slides.

Is the oem clutch adjustable, or does anyone offer a kit to adjust the clutch???
How high of an RPM are you trying to downshift at? If you try to downshift at 10K it's going to want to go close to redline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am usually braking just under redline.....It's not shift related. I am getting on the brakes and the rear is locking (when I am at high Revs).
This is racetrack conditions.
Started doing it when I junked the POS master cylinder and installed a Brembo. Now the brakes are so good that it is getting the rear light and locking the rear.

CAN THE SLIPPER CLUTCH BE ADJUSTED TO HAVE LESS FRICTION?
 

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Speedballer347 said:
I am usually braking just under redline.....It's not shift related. I am getting on the brakes and the rear is locking (when I am at high Revs).
This is racetrack conditions.
Started doing it when I junked the POS master cylinder and installed a Brembo. Now the brakes are so good that it is getting the rear light and locking the rear.

CAN THE SLIPPER CLUTCH BE ADJUSTED TO HAVE LESS FRICTION?
It would have to be done with the springs and washers. I'm not sure who would sell them if they are available. Then you would have to worry about excessive engine RPM.
 

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i think there is a post on here about a guy modding the shit out of his bike, and i saw what looked to be an aftermarket clutch assmebly in the pics.

plus, it doesn't sound like a better clutch will make the problem go away. it sounds like after you put the new brakes in, you haven't got used to them. a better working clutch won't free up the rear tire. you even said so yourself:


Speedballer347 said:
I am usually braking just under redline.....It's not shift related. I am getting on the brakes and the rear is locking (when I am at high Revs).
This is racetrack conditions.
Started doing it when I junked the POS master cylinder and installed a Brembo. Now the brakes are so good that it is getting the rear light and locking the rear.


CAN THE SLIPPER CLUTCH BE ADJUSTED TO HAVE LESS FRICTION?
ask yourself when it's locking. if you are off the brakes, and the rear is locking, then it's an issue that a better sprung clutch will fix. but if you are still hard on the binders, then the best clutch in the world won't fix it.
 

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NOS-Nelson said:
It would have to be done with the springs and washers. I'm not sure who would sell them if they are available. Then you would have to worry about excessive engine RPM.
+1, if you are close to redline... those rpms have to go somewhere...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nah, a clutch with more slippage will definately fix it. Clutch aint slipping enuff, and it's locking the rear for a bit til the revs drop a little.
I almost got spit off braking in the corkscrew at Barber last weekend, was on the brakes leading into the bottom right hander and the rear locked and came around ... didn't like it at all! :eek

My buddies ZX10, man you can drop the gears and over rev that b*tch when you are clamping the brembo's and rear doesn't come close to locking.
But that bike has a real slipper, not just a back-limiter like the gsxr.

Anyone know where to get adjusters? I am thinking Attack might have them.
 

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turn the three lifter pins in about one turn

from the factory there is only .012 of lift put in it

I had the same problem, you can do this without taking the clutch cover off, just take the plug out and rotate it accordingly
 

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i believe both yoyodyne and hardracing sell real slipper clutches that are adjustable but theyre in the $800- $1800 range depending on which model you get.

i too think that its just not slipping enough.

the only thing i dont get is why did it start after the m/c was changed? if its because the brakes are stronger cant you adj the suspension to have less dive in the front? no slipper clutch in the world is going to work right with the rear tire off the ground, right?
 

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The clutch should be adjusted before every track day or every race.
!st back off all the way the clutch lever adjustment.
2nd open access door by oil fill on rightside cover.
3rd with a 10 &12 mm open end loosen adjuster lock nut.
4th turn in with phillips screw driver all the way, then back out half turn
5th retighten the lock nut.
6th adjust clutch lever

:cheers
 

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canyon crazy said:
The clutch should be adjusted before every track day or every race.
!st back off all the way the clutch lever adjustment.
2nd open access door by oil fill on rightside cover.
3rd with a 10 &12 mm open end loosen adjuster lock nut.
4th turn in with phillips screw driver all the way, then back out half turn
5th retighten the lock nut.
6th adjust clutch lever

:cheers
I'm not talking about the clutch adjustment (push rod that operates it)

you have to adjust the lifter pins, there are three of them, this cannot be found in the owners manual. It can be found in the service manual though

stock the clutch does not slip very much
 

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It's very adjustable.

I've had mine everywhere from too slippy to almost locked up.

You can run it so you can go down gears all you like and the most the engine will do is about 9000rpm (even if it should be doing 20,000) with very very soft engine braking.

Stock everything with only 2 stock reaction springs and 2 turns on the lift pins is like this.

You can custom tune it if you like...

You need some other parts to get it just right though.


You can start with the main springs. It seems to help make them 15% heavier.(all this is with the lift pins out 2 turns)

You can also buy a Yoshimura kit.

The stock reaction springs are 225N each. So with stock parts you can have 450N , 675N , or 900N (lots of slip up to almost none)

Stock is 675N

The Yoshi kit comes with 3 springs at 150N and 3 with 300

Between the stock 225N ones and the yoshi ones you can make any combo you like (suggested between 450 and 900N)

I ran 450 for a while and I can't imagine anyone wanting more slip than that , the clutch slipped very easy.


I've settled on 15% heavier clutch springs and 3 stock reaction springs but with 2 turns on the lift pins.

Hope this helps.

:cheers
 

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Soft =

2 turns out on the lift pins
Barnett clutch springs (not the gold ones)
2 stock reaction springs

Normal

2 turns out on the lift pins
Stock clutch springs
3 stock reaction springs

Firm but nice

2 turns out on the lift pins
Barnett springs (not the gold ones)
3 stock reaction springs

Almost no slip

As above with 4 stock reaction springs.


Anything in between you need the Yoshi reaction springs for.

;)
 
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