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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When its time to adjust my manual CCT can I adjust it just by tightening it until the motor doesnt click anymore or would I have to pull the valve cover off and tighten it until it has 1/4 inch deflection in the chain.
 

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If you do it without taking off the cover, you could be masking a different problem. IE, When working on a 98 750 from a well known person on this board, we thought it was a timing chain problem cause as we would tighten the adjuster the noise would start to go away... but when checking the chain to be safe, it was so tight there was no way it would have lasted more then 1K miles.

The problem had nothing to do with teh chain.. It was a bad rod bearing... So this just goes to show it is better to spend the extra 30 min it takes to remove and replace the valve cover to check it correct..

John
 

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Originally posted by Ratman69:
Hmmmm . . . that sounds familiar!
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Hmmmm Are you sure??


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So before I screw something up again....To adjust it without taking the valve cover off, I start the bike, let it warm up, loosen the lock nut and tighten the Manual CCT until I dont hear ticking anymore and then tighen the lock nut back. And this whole time I have the bike running correct?

[ 08-19-2002, 12:55 PM: Message edited by: 1990GSX750F ]
 

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Sexy Irish Man God
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Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:


The problem had nothing to do with teh chain.. It was a bad rod bearing... So this just goes to show it is better to spend the extra 30 min it takes to remove and replace the valve cover to check it correct..

John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I hate you FI bastards!!!

Takes me at least 1 hour min to take apart, pull my valve cover, and replace everything if I am lucky!
Carbs sucky, some of the mounting bolts on the carbs required me to make my own wrenches to get them off. Hense bending 3 wrenches to certain angles to get in their right. That and using like 4 wobblers on sockets!

Carbs



jontflesh
 
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Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
When working on a 98 750 from a well known person on this board, we thought it was a timing chain problem cause as we would tighten the adjuster the noise would start to go away... but when checking the chain to be safe, it was so tight there was no way it would have lasted more then 1K miles.

The problem had nothing to do with teh chain.. It was a bad rod bearing

John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I had the EXACT same thing happen to me (rod bearing, thinking it was the CCT, everything)!!!

Unfortunately, I took off (after adjusting the chain way too tight) and was pondering the loss of power just as the motor went boom
 

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Hey Jont,
Are you talking about the clams that hold the carbs to the intake? If so, check this out.. In the 2000 600 they have it setup so you put the screw drive in the hole on the outside of the frame. You have one screw for two carbs... You know what I am talking about.. if this is the problem you have let me know I have a set of clamps from a 00 600 I can send you..

John
 

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Sexy Irish Man God
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Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Hey Jont,
Are you talking about the clams that hold the carbs to the intake? If so, check this out.. In the 2000 600 they have it setup so you put the screw drive in the hole on the outside of the frame. You have one screw for two carbs... You know what I am talking about.. if this is the problem you have let me know I have a set of clamps from a 00 600 I can send you..

John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">It is the base of the carbs that bolt onto the engine..


What I have to do is there is two bolts for each carbs/stacks. Three of them (if I am remembering right) are a real bitch to get to.

Are we talking the same thing here? I am so awful with actuall names of the parts it is not funny

They bolt right onto here...


jontflesh
 

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Well the 2nd pic you have the intake boots off the motor... I almost never take mine off... I just remove the carbs from the boots. I will see if I can take pics tonight when I do my valve adjustment. But the rubber boots that bolt to the head and then clamp onto the carbs should be able to be loosened and then you can just pull the carbs off and leave the boots on the motor..


On my bike there is a hole in the side of the frame with a rubber cap to cover it. If you pull that off, you can put a screw drive in there and loosen the clamp. One screw does two clamps...

John
 

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Sexy Irish Man God
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Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Well the 2nd pic you have the intake boots off the motor... I almost never take mine off... I just remove the carbs from the boots. I will see if I can take pics tonight when I do my valve adjustment. But the rubber boots that bolt to the head and then clamp onto the carbs should be able to be loosened and then you can just pull the carbs off and leave the boots on the motor..


On my bike there is a hole in the side of the frame with a rubber cap to cover it. If you pull that off, you can put a screw drive in there and loosen the clamp. One screw does two clamps...

John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Ok I think I am making more work for myself than I need to.
I don't need to actually pull off the entire carb assembly? D'oh!
Please do take some picts if you have the time John


jontflesh
 

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Well you do still pull the carbs... but you only loosen to screws to do it.. Not 8 bolts with locktite..


John
 
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