<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I hate you FI bastards!!!Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
The problem had nothing to do with teh chain.. It was a bad rod bearing... So this just goes to show it is better to spend the extra 30 min it takes to remove and replace the valve cover to check it correct..
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I had the EXACT same thing happen to me (rod bearing, thinking it was the CCT, everything)!!!Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
When working on a 98 750 from a well known person on this board, we thought it was a timing chain problem cause as we would tighten the adjuster the noise would start to go away... but when checking the chain to be safe, it was so tight there was no way it would have lasted more then 1K miles.
The problem had nothing to do with teh chain.. It was a bad rod bearing
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">It is the base of the carbs that bolt onto the engine..Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Are you talking about the clams that hold the carbs to the intake? If so, check this out.. In the 2000 600 they have it setup so you put the screw drive in the hole on the outside of the frame. You have one screw for two carbs... You know what I am talking about.. if this is the problem you have let me know I have a set of clamps from a 00 600 I can send you..
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Ok I think I am making more work for myself than I need to.Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Well the 2nd pic you have the intake boots off the motor... I almost never take mine off... I just remove the carbs from the boots. I will see if I can take pics tonight when I do my valve adjustment. But the rubber boots that bolt to the head and then clamp onto the carbs should be able to be loosened and then you can just pull the carbs off and leave the boots on the motor..
On my bike there is a hole in the side of the frame with a rubber cap to cover it. If you pull that off, you can put a screw drive in there and loosen the clamp. One screw does two clamps...