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I have a selection of sprocks for track and attempt to choose my gearing so I don't have to change gear at a stupid time such as up, just at the end of a straight, only to have to change dwn straightaway. I have -1F, -2F(tried but dont use), -1R, +1,2,3,4,R.

changing the front sproc is depressing ( unless its a long term change), the rear is quick.

Cant see any point in more than -1F street tires, OR +2R street (not both), unless you can really say you pin the throttle virtually from the off.
 

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Im actually running -2 +2 now
I can't imagine running that gearing, on a 1000, on the street. That is equivalent of what people put on 600's for stunt bikes...
 

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I can't imagine running that gearing, on a 1000, on the street. That is equivalent of what people put on 600's for stunt bikes...
if you have good throttle control, -2/+2 really isn't that crazy.
 

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Hey gents,

Getting ready to order new rear sprocket, but I bought the bike used so I want to make sure I know what the stock gearing is on the K7 1000?? This thread dances all around the numbers, but doesn't actually say, ugh. Going with 520 and BST wheels if anyone has usefull info about either.

Scott
 

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Hey gents,

Getting ready to order new rear sprocket, but I bought the bike used so I want to make sure I know what the stock gearing is on the K7 1000?? This thread dances all around the numbers, but doesn't actually say, ugh. Going with 520 and BST wheels if anyone has usefull info about either.

Scott
BST wheels are awsome, good choice!

About the 520 I personally would not do that, I have a 520 kit on my RC-51 with -1front,+2rear sprockets (which is insane fun to ride) and the chain has gotten worn out bad a lot faster than the stock setup.

I'm going to switch back to a 525 or 530 chain. Keep in mind a 520 is basically meant for a dirt bike which has around 50-60hp give or take. Putting that on a 150+rwhp 1000cc sportbike is gonna cause it to get worn out a lot faster. My RC-51 is pushing "only" 125rwhp and it smoked the chain, it's gonna be worse on a inline 4 1000cc bike.

Also I have a K6 1000 and want to do a sprocket change, I haven't seen anyone mention a -1 front, +1 rear setup. That's what I was thinking about going with, any thoughts on that?
 

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The current 520 chains are more than strong enough to live on a literbike. I usually get about 20k miles out of an RK GXW. I'm on my 4th one now. Right now i'm running -2+2 and love it. Like most I used to think it would be too insane but it's perfect. My current 44T rear has over 37k miles on it and it just lost a couple of teeth so i'm gonna borrow a 45T rear for my next trackday.
 

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The current 520 chains are more than strong enough to live on a literbike. I usually get about 20k miles out of an RK GXW. I'm on my 4th one now. Right now i'm running -2+2 and love it. Like most I used to think it would be too insane but it's perfect. My current 44T rear has over 37k miles on it and it just lost a couple of teeth so i'm gonna borrow a 45T rear for my next trackday.
True, I probably got a shitty chain then because my 520 on my RC is shot and it didn't take long
 

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520 al sprockets dont last long ....

530 are meant for 1000cc.... now if you like changing chains and sprockets your wellcome... that 0.5 lbs is going to put you on front... yea right
 

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anything good someone says about a 520 chain on a liter bike, take it and multiply it by a BIGGER METAL LINK than a 520 has to offer...lol

It is my opinion that a 520 on a liter bike is for people with false logic, or people who do not put allot of miles on their street bike. A larger metal chain made of the same material will last longer than a smaller metal chain made of the same material.

If you still have mirrors and dot tires on your street bike than you are kidding yourself with a 520 chain, IMHO.

and as far as -2/+2, sure i have the throttle control to make it work, but why would I want to go slower and work harder doing it? Thats hero gearing for the street on a liter bike. Makes it feel like you are doing allot, when you are just going slow. IMHO.
 

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I can't imagine running that gearing, on a 1000, on the street. That is equivalent of what people put on 600's for stunt bikes...
LOL, its far from "stunt" gearing.

The current 520 chains are more than strong enough to live on a literbike. I usually get about 20k miles out of an RK GXW. I'm on my 4th one now. Right now i'm running -2+2 and love it. Like most I used to think it would be too insane but it's perfect. My current 44T rear has over 37k miles on it and it just lost a couple of teeth so i'm gonna borrow a 45T rear for my next trackday.
This is my first RK GXW and Im very impressed with it. Im -2 +2 as well, funny how people think its so extreme. Guess they havent tried it, or are satisfied with the acceleration using stock gearing, I wanted more. Happy I tried it, excellent gearing for my needs.

anything good someone says about a 520 chain on a liter bike, take it and multiply it by a BIGGER METAL LINK than a 520 has to offer...lol

It is my opinion that a 520 on a liter bike is for people with false logic, or people who do not put allot of miles on their street bike. A larger metal chain made of the same material will last longer than a smaller metal chain made of the same material.

If you still have mirrors and dot tires on your street bike than you are kidding yourself with a 520 chain, IMHO.

and as far as -2/+2, sure i have the throttle control to make it work, but why would I want to go slower and work harder doing it? Thats hero gearing for the street on a liter bike. Makes it feel like you are doing allot, when you are just going slow. IMHO.
I know Im not going to convince you but I have to throw this out there.

520's are plenty strong, over 12K on mine and its still in great shape. 6k was the lowest annual mileage I have had with it, usually 8k+, thats a fair amount of riding wouldnt you say? Besides, I like to change my driveset every couple/3 years anyways.

Not everyone here is focused on 1/4 mile runs or flying down the highway doing 180. Some of us are fortunate enough to have endless twisty mountain/back roads that lend themselves to gearing that sacrifices top end speed for more low end grunt.

As far as "hero gearing" and working harder - going slower, hum, dont even know what to say to that. Have you ever run lower gearing on your bike?

Im not attacking you, just expressing my personal opinion and asking a question...:biggrin
 

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I need a new chain for my k3. I bought the bike used. It came with a 525 chain and +3 rear and stock front. My last bike was a v-twin. 6 years ago. This k3 is big learning curve for me. My k3 lack's bottom end bad. Course i'm catching myself riding it like a v-twin! Low rpm, not downshifting enough,etc! I want a good gearing for low end but not something that will stand on its ass everytime I roll the throttle.
 

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I need a new chain for my k3. I bought the bike used. It came with a 525 chain and +3 rear and stock front. My last bike was a v-twin. 6 years ago. This k3 is big learning curve for me. My k3 lack's bottom end bad. Course i'm catching myself riding it like a v-twin! Low rpm, not downshifting enough,etc! I want a good gearing for low end but not something that will stand on its ass everytime I roll the throttle.
I would change the entire drive set, motomummy is a great place to find them. As for the pitch, totally up to you. 530 was stock, 525 can be difficult to find the chain and gears you want, 520 is an option too, lots of gearing options with the 520 sets on motomummy. Your call.

As far as gearing goes, -1 +2 is a common choice for what you are looking for.

Below about 3K RPM's, they all lack grunt. With my -2 +2 in 2nd gear as the tach passes 6K the front starts coming up at even 3/4 throttle. However with good throttle control you can keep the front down in all of the gears to WOT, its all a matter of opening the throttle in response to how light the front feels.

Even with my -2 +2 I can run 1rst gear to redline and keep the front on the ground, although its more fun to let her float a bit!
 

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I don't mind the front end coming up. As long its manageable. I will probally go back with a 530 chain and -1,+2 to try it out.
 

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LOL, its far from "stunt" gearing.



This is my first RK GXW and Im very impressed with it. Im -2 +2 as well, funny how people think its so extreme. Guess they havent tried it, or are satisfied with the acceleration using stock gearing, I wanted more. Happy I tried it, excellent gearing for my needs.



I know Im not going to convince you but I have to throw this out there.

520's are plenty strong, over 12K on mine and its still in great shape. 6k was the lowest annual mileage I have had with it, usually 8k+, thats a fair amount of riding wouldnt you say? Besides, I like to change my driveset every couple/3 years anyways.

Not everyone here is focused on 1/4 mile runs or flying down the highway doing 180. Some of us are fortunate enough to have endless twisty mountain/back roads that lend themselves to gearing that sacrifices top end speed for more low end grunt.

As far as "hero gearing" and working harder - going slower, hum, dont even know what to say to that. Have you ever run lower gearing on your bike?

Im not attacking you, just expressing my personal opinion and asking a question...:biggrin
No attack man, no harm no foul. We all have our own opinions. I just personally believe that people make such a huge big deal about the weight savings of a 520 chain when it makes no actual difference in the real world.

I think liter bikes ridden on the street are better fitted with larger chains that will last longer. I am not saying 520's are not strong, just that larger chains made of the same material is stronger.

I personally think reliability is first in street bikes and performance is second. The biggest difference on the street is riding talent, not hardware.

I have allot of miles under me, on allot of different motorcycles. I have been doing this for awhile. I have tried allot of different gearing. And in my opinion a -2/+2 setup on the street feels fast, but is not fast. You spend too much time waiting to open the throttle to keep the wheelies under control. -2/+2 is awesome in a 70mph roll on in 3rd, but it is slow coming off a first gear turn on track.

I actually prefer twisty roads over 1/4 mile and top speed stuff, but I live in Oklahoma and have to do what I can do...lol My 08 still power wheelies with a +1 and a tall rear tire. I run -1 on the street.
 

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No attack man, no harm no foul. We all have our own opinions. I just personally believe that people make such a huge big deal about the weight savings of a 520 chain when it makes no actual difference in the real world.

I think liter bikes ridden on the street are better fitted with larger chains that will last longer. I am not saying 520's are not strong, just that larger chains made of the same material is stronger.

I personally think reliability is first in street bikes and performance is second. The biggest difference on the street is riding talent, not hardware.

I have allot of miles under me, on allot of different motorcycles. I have been doing this for awhile. I have tried allot of different gearing. And in my opinion a -2/+2 setup on the street feels fast, but is not fast. You spend too much time waiting to open the throttle to keep the wheelies under control. -2/+2 is awesome in a 70mph roll on in 3rd, but it is slow coming off a first gear turn on track.

I actually prefer twisty roads over 1/4 mile and top speed stuff, but I live in Oklahoma and have to do what I can do...lol My 08 still power wheelies with a +1 and a tall rear tire. I run -1 on the street.
Yeah the "weight savings argument" is a moot point for me as well. I went 520 to see if it could indeed last the way I ride, plus it was a bit cheaper which helps when you have a family to support, plus I like to change the driveset every 2-3 years. I have ridden bikes with old drivesets and it feels terrible.

Glad we can have an intelligent discussion, all too often these topics turn ugly...:cheers
 
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