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I have heard that if you go -1 in the front it makes the bike feel like a on off switch. Hard to get on the the throttle out of a turn. Is that true??
 

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i went -1 in the front and it wasnt that drastic. but i did feel a difference over the way to tall stock gearing

j

You have a 1070 kit! Pretty sure I would have a hard time noticing much difference with a -1 as well lol.

I did a -1/+1 520 kit on my old bike (k7-1k) and I loved it.
 

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I have heard that if you go -1 in the front it makes the bike feel like a on off switch. Hard to get on the the throttle out of a turn. Is that true??
only if you don't have good throttle control.
 

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no.... -1 is no problem.. hardley noticeable at all.... takes off about 5mph on the top end
 

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Had a discussion today at a local bike shop about gearing on a K8. How will the bike react/ride if you go -1 in the front and -1 in the rear. That being a 16F and a 42R? If you go down -1 isn't that like adding 2.8 to the rear? I was saying that you will get a bit better acceleration response going -1 on both but not as drastic as -1/+2. With the -1/-1 you'll get a bit better acceleration and not lose as much top. Am I right? :dunno
 

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Had a discussion today at a local bike shop about gearing on a K8. How will the bike react/ride if you go -1 in the front and -1 in the rear. That being a 16F and a 42R? If you go down -1 isn't that like adding 2.8 to the rear? I was saying that you will get a bit better acceleration response going -1 on both but not as drastic as -1/+2. With the -1/-1 you'll get a bit better acceleration and not lose as much top. Am I right? :dunno
From what I've been reading is you honestly won't feel the difference. I just ordered a -1 front, and depending on how much top speed I lose I might still go +1 or +2 in the rear.
 

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My 2 cents...

stock power you can go -1 on the front...

my recipie is 190/55 - 17-45 with +2 links on the chain
190/50 -17/44 +2 links on the chain

super stable...

My K57(K7 engine) has epoxy head, motty AFR only not even a exhaust and with -1 on the front (stock chain 110) the bike is a handfull to handle...

When I had the K5 with racedevelopment head, full arrow, motty AFR, yosh R intake cam... I had to use longer chain.
 

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I went +2 in the back so I could get a sprocket that matched the bike. I felt an acceleration difference. The bike wheelies A LOT easier, and a lot more than I want it to.

In terms of top speed... I did 186 indicated with the stock gearing, no speedohealer. With the gearing done AND the speedohealer, I did 170 and had plenty to go.
 

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i need a new sprocket and chain set. got my bike race tuned with a taylor made pipe pcIII and an ivans tre. dynoed 171.3 hp at the wheel. tops speed of 187.5mph. i dont need to go that fast but i want more acceleration. im thinking of going -1 in the front and +2 in the back.do you think that would be to drastic?
 

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Had a discussion today at a local bike shop about gearing on a K8. How will the bike react/ride if you go -1 in the front and -1 in the rear. That being a 16F and a 42R? If you go down -1 isn't that like adding 2.8 to the rear? I was saying that you will get a bit better acceleration response going -1 on both but not as drastic as -1/+2. With the -1/-1 you'll get a bit better acceleration and not lose as much top. Am I right? :dunno
-1 +1 works great and you can still use stock chain.
 

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a slight loss of top end but more low grunt. In other words...a nice happy medium over just -1 and -1+2. On the street no one needs stock gearing on a late model 1000cc bike as they are geared to get close to 180 even though the speedo will probably say 186.
 

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That's overkill IMO. Don't want a wheelie monster and lose the top end. Not that I'm topping it out constantly but still.
 

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i need a new sprocket and chain set. got my bike race tuned with a taylor made pipe pcIII and an ivans tre. dynoed 171.3 hp at the wheel. tops speed of 187.5mph. i dont need to go that fast but i want more acceleration. im thinking of going -1 in the front and +2 in the back.do you think that would be to drastic?
Depends on your inputs (right wrist) and if you are willing to give up some top end speed for much better acceleration. Ive run -1 +2, its a good compromise. Im actually running -2 +2 now, I only top out in the 160's but the gain in acceleration is awesome. I prefer 2 lane back mountain roads with lots of twists and changes in elevation over straight line runs to 180, which is silly on public roads anyways.
 

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gearing sometimes depends on the power of the bike and your expertise...

sometimes a docile bike geared tall, can make you go faster than a monster you are changing gears all the time and triying to tame.
 
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