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Hey guys, brand new to the forum, and new to a gsxr. I have a 1999 gsxr750 I just picked up for 1700. I charged the battery, replaced a leaking fuel line, and when I let the bike sit in the garage and idle for a few minutes it starts making this crazy noise. I haven’t done an oil change yet, it has been sitting for over a year, but it runs great aside from this noise it makes randomly. If I shut the bike off and turn it back on noise goes away, I took a video. It’s about 45 seconds, I can’t post it here so I just posted it on YouTube. Link is below

 

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Hey guys, brand new to the forum, and new to a gsxr. I have a 1999 gsxr750 I just picked up for 1700. I charged the battery, replaced a leaking fuel line, and when I let the bike sit in the garage and idle for a few minutes it starts making this crazy noise. I haven’t done an oil change yet, it has been sitting for over a year, but it runs great aside from this noise it makes randomly. If I shut the bike off and turn it back on noise goes away, I took a video. It’s about 45 seconds, I can’t post it here so I just posted it on YouTube. Link is below

Don`t run it, it sounds like cam chain rattle. Does it have an automatic cam chain tensioner or a manual one.
 

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Don`t run it, it sounds like cam chain rattle. Does it have an automatic cam chain tensioner or a manual one.
I’m not sure, how do I know which it has? I’m pretty new to this stuff. I really appreciate the help in advance
 

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First pic is of a manual one, second auto ( known to fail on srads, you can hear it when the revs drop down rhs of engine more so). Lift the tank back of engine right hand side as you sit.
Suzuki-Gsxr-600-Srad-Trackstar-Manual-Cam-Chain.jpg
!BspB1,!EGk~$(KGrHqMOKi8Eur4ifGmSBL4u0qS5Jw~~_1.JPG
 

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Yes automatic, strongly suggest fitting an APE manual cam chain adjuster. The automatic ones are well known to be weak & fail, will cause timing to jump & kill the engine ( expensive rebuild ). Many write ups on here on how to fit & adjust.
 

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I'm going to chime in as well and confirm that it is most probably the timing chain. I've had it happen on older cbr's also. Common failure.
 

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I'm going to chime in as well and confirm that it is most probably the timing chain. I've had it happen on older cbr's also. Common failure.
alright thank you very much, I’ve just drained the oil and I did find some very small metal pieces on the magnet of the drain plug. Not sure if that’s related or not, really hope it’s no big deal. Going to pull the oil filter and replace it, add fresh oil, and let it warm up and see if it makes any difference because the oil was a bit thin, didn’t look great either. I’ll report back with what happens
 

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I don't think changing the oil will help at all. The mechanism in the tensioner is broken or binding intermittently it seems, so I'd fix it before trying to run the bike much more.
 

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So I changed the oil and filter, and honestly the noise hasn’t reappeared although a new problem has found its way to me. It’s leaking coolant! The bike isn’t ready for the road yet, so I’m getting it ready. No worries fellas, this thing won’t be ran on the road until it can hit operating temp multiple times without issues. The new problem is it’s literally pissing coolant from behind the water pump (head smacking/kicking floor angrily). And with the fairing off I found a oil line to be a little drippy!!! Do I replace water pump now? It is coming from what looks like the lowest bolt on the back of the water pump
 

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was that the starter gear rattling? maybe new oil freed it up?

go over that bike, everything from cables, to bearings, to wiring so forth, check ALL fluids, guess your onto fluid # 2 either way right.. let it heat up and make sure fan kicks on at 225 or so, if not you can ride it a bit to cool it down then troubleshoot the fan, switch and sensor..

man where you guys getting all these SRADS with mint body work? like the 4th one last couple months.. fugg

ncie bike BTW, worth going over, ronayers for anything out of order, stripped whatever.. maybe replace your rubber hoses around the engine, clutch cable and at least throttle pull cable, know what you have and not get stranded, if not toss new ones in the trunk and carry your tool kit..

LED conversion are all the rage now you can do it all, clocks, tail lamp, signals and headlights, creehd50's are dope..
 

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was that the starter gear rattling? maybe new oil freed it up?

go over that bike, everything from cables, to bearings, to wiring so forth, check ALL fluids, guess your onto fluid # 2 either way right.. let it heat up and make sure fan kicks on at 225 or so, if not you can ride it a bit to cool it down then troubleshoot the fan, switch and sensor..

man where you guys getting all these SRADS with mint body work? like the 4th one last couple months.. fugg

ncie bike BTW, worth going over, ronayers for anything out of order, stripped whatever.. maybe replace your rubber hoses around the engine, clutch cable and at least throttle pull cable, know what you have and not get stranded, if not toss new ones in the trunk and carry your tool kit..

LED conversion are all the rage now you can do it all, clocks, tail lamp, signals and headlights, creehd50's are dope..
thank you very much for the reply. I wouldn’t call the body work “mint” but it’s in damn good shape. I picked it up in New Jersey, drove 3 hours for it. I do have a clutch cable on the way, along with a new ignition and gas cap off of ebay. There’s no way that noise was the starter gear, it makes it sound like a diesel. I’m really thinking the new oil did free it(cam chain tensioner) up because it was some really nasty looking thin oil in there. I’ve replaced a couple small lines so far. What’s everything I should be going over on it? I do want the bike basically perfect. I intend to ride it fast and far this summer. Should I pull the water pump and see if I can seal it up? Or should I just go ahead and try to find another one? My concern is there’s like 7 different ones and I don’t want to spend like 200$ on something that’s wrong. I’m going to fire the bike up and let it idle up to temp in about 2 hours to see if the rattle noise comes back or not. And to see if I can get a more accurate location of the coolant leak. It’s 7am now and that’s a tad bit to early for the neighbors to hear the full yoshimura pipe screaming lol

Edit: the fan does come on at 220ish.
There was no water in the oil
What’s everything I should look through? Some easy basics if you don’t mind?
 

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you might consider doing an oil flush, run a half bottle of Moly engine flush, drain your good oil n filter and save, 4 quarts of cheap oil, detergent isn't bad for flushing, follow instructions on Moly Flush..

if it was that bad
 

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you'll wanna go over wheel bearings, brakes n fluids, suspension fluids, wiring, doesn't hurt to clean all connectors and pack with dielectric grease.. those rubber lines like vacuum hoses and such.. of course new plugs and filter, or clean it if its cleanable.. chain and sprockets.. tires

try to get it up to snuff so its basically in new form, how it was off the floor or reasonably close, if brake pads are more than 50% go new, same for chain n sprockets, cables..

if you can have the valves adjusted and TB's synced, if ya can remove injectors and clean, easy 9 volt battery spray can method works well on youtube.. easy

this way you don't have any surprises while riding and you should be good to go for at least 12000 miles, and maybe inspect that tank and fuel pump, corrosion, rust, pump filter, thats a big one, guys fire these things up after sitting years and jsu trin em, with either clogged filters or rotted, pump ends up getting clogged up then jams... stranded

replace any bolts seem to not tighten or torque up, check all nuts bolts and fasteners, I see you still have the ram air tab bolts for the panels, boy thats rare so someone must have taken care of it to a certain degree?

well worth going over IMHO, maybe for $200-$300 you can get it real close to new condition maintenance and wear parts wise which is a good feeling all the way around, and you're apt to get stranded and have issues less and know she'll fire right up when you want to ride...

maybe get a new battery and set it on the shelf for when this one goes? bust out the hot soapy water and tooth brush and detail her to the Tee? good bike, nice lookin too, Plexus spray should get that body work and tank nice and shiney, protected from the elements as well.. slip right through the air
 

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you'll wanna go over wheel bearings, brakes n fluids, suspension fluids, wiring, doesn't hurt to clean all connectors and pack with dielectric grease.. those rubber lines like vacuum hoses and such.. of course new plugs and filter, or clean it if its cleanable.. chain and sprockets.. tires

try to get it up to snuff so its basically in new form, how it was off the floor or reasonably close, if brake pads are more than 50% go new, same for chain n sprockets, cables..

if you can have the valves adjusted and TB's synced, if ya can remove injectors and clean, easy 9 volt battery spray can method works well on youtube.. easy

this way you don't have any surprises while riding and you should be good to go for at least 12000 miles, and maybe inspect that tank and fuel pump, corrosion, rust, pump filter, thats a big one, guys fire these things up after sitting years and jsu trin em, with either clogged filters or rotted, pump ends up getting clogged up then jams... stranded

replace any bolts seem to not tighten or torque up, check all nuts bolts and fasteners, I see you still have the ram air tab bolts for the panels, boy thats rare so someone must have taken care of it to a certain degree?

well worth going over IMHO, maybe for $200-$300 you can get it real close to new condition maintenance and wear parts wise which is a good feeling all the way around, and you're apt to get stranded and have issues less and know she'll fire right up when you want to ride...

maybe get a new battery and set it on the shelf for when this one goes? bust out the hot soapy water and tooth brush and detail her to the Tee? good bike, nice lookin too, Plexus spray should get that body work and tank nice and shiney, protected from the elements as well.. slip right through the air
thank you so much for the reply. I did the coolant, oil, drained the tank filled with fresh 93, i just swapped the clutch from my 98 to my 99 last night. I do have 2 extra batteries charged and 1 in the bike, I have a 98 gsxr750 that is basically a parts bike which is where I’m going to snag the water pump from too. And an oil line. I’ve gone over a lot of the bike. One thing with the fuel pump is that sometimes it doesn’t come on unless I turn the handlebars all the way to the right and then flip the kill switch. Probably a pinched wire somewhere, I’ll pull the tank and see what I can find. The throttle also sticks so I have to manually return it to idle with the throttle grip, again probably a pinched line. It isn’t missing any body work, it also has brand new fork seals, so someone definitely did care for it quite a bit if you ask me. Needs some love and maintenance but it’ll be a solid bike for me this summer. All it really needs to be somewhat reliable is water pump, oil line, cam chain tensioner, and a new front tire (which I have). I’m thinking of pulling the cam chain tensioner off the 98, it looks a little different than the 99 one though atleast from the outside. Maybe the inside is the same, will find out today
 

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The pump issue is probably down to the subloom, the connectors under the lhs ram air duct are well known for corroding ( especially the yellow block connector ), heat from the radiator & under the ram air not the best. Clean them all then plenty of dielectric grease to keep moisture out..
The 98 cct is just an older version ( smaller looking ) of the 99 with same issues.
Manual cct such as ape is the only way to protect against cct failure and a ruined engine.
 

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The pump issue is probably down to the subloom, the connectors under the lhs ram air duct are well known for corroding ( especially the yellow block connector ), heat from the radiator & under the ram air not the best. Clean them all then plenty of dielectric grease to keep moisture out..
The 98 cct is just an older version ( smaller looking ) of the 99 with same issues.
Manual cct such as ape is the only way to protect against cct failure and a ruined engine.
so my concern is that, i don’t know how to time an engine, I’ve also read that you have to buy an extra piece for the manual cam chain tensioner? The piece that actually rests on the chain? I have no idea what I’m talking about.. help hahahaha
 
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