Does anybody have pics they can share of between the fuel rail and the battery. I have 2 brackets handing and 2 electrical connectors that have vacum ports not hooked up but there is no loose vacum lines.
welp the one in your hand goes to the air filter box, rear left side, small black screw
the other hose stuff in engine bay looks like a mock fuel filter with the clear hose and the other kinda looks like a charcoal canister..
then lastly I cannot really tell at that angle but isn't that an air pressure sensor? it has a nipple but its open to atmosphere, nothing connects to it, typically they have a small hose with a screen to keep garb out but it senses the air pressure or elevation to lean/richen fuel at whatever elevation your at or change maps really its an open look so it changes maps..
if you have a bung and O2 sensor then its a closed loop FI system and it monitors and adjusts A/F on the fly
there are 3rd party modules with O2 sensors and a bung you weld onto your header to modify to closed loop, (mo betta)
some guys go all the way and sniff each cylinder as apposed to the mid pipe as a collective.. that way each cylinder can be monitored and adjusted as inside barrels tend to get hotter so that changes everything..
might wanna grab some numbers off the engine block and VIN post those up or look them up see what year and model that is..
if this is definitely SRAD stuff its a 98/99 750 not 600, least that wiring in question is, did the 98/99 750 come with a charcoal canister or Cali Emissions model? there should be a designation on the VIN for Emissions model forgot what that is tho..
run that VIN and engine numbers then get back to us with more pics of the chassis, sub frame, does the trunk have a sticker on the right side, hose routing schematic? that's where emission models keep the hose routing diagram for the evap system, (charcoal canister) its rather odd but it takes the fumes from the gas tank and instead of venting them to atmosphere it runs them through a charcoal canister to clean it up...
if a guy were to put a stock catalytic converter can off an 05 GSXR1000 and put it on those evap bikes it would be a hard core low emissions bike..
but yea you have some sorting to do, it this the same bike about a month ago, trying to figure out the harness what it goes to?
you clearly have someoFI stuff on there, you pull the fuel pump and see if its a 750 pump or? that fuel line is FI for sure.. you got carbs or throttle bodies?
I just hit ebay and they do have 99 750 SRAD evap charcoal canisters for sale so apparently the 98/99 750 did have a cali emissions model..
some that stuff is the emissions charcoal canister stuff.. you can pull it, a few things need blocked, may as well pull the pair module as well, another emissions module, its on the front of the block lines going right above the exhaust headers, 4 of em, you'll need the block off plates..
again block off any vacuum and or feed lines I forget everything involved haven't done one in 20 years or so
this entire bike looks like a 750 to me? proper subframe, proper forks, proper FI, 98 or 99.. no two ways about it
the sensor in your hand is the air temp? bolts to rear of air box left side, black screw..
you can get all your assorted screws and so forth at Ronayers.com and you can check the micro fiche to see where parts go and what anchors them..
you'll be much happier using OEM fasteners for everything so you don't strip and destroy..
be nice if ya had an "inch" lbs torque wrench, a lot of nuts and bolts are like 5 lbs torque spec which is really difficult to get on a large ft lbs torque wrench, so for 5 lbs you multiply that by 12 to get inch lbs right?
60 inch lbs for 5 ft lbs... just a Superior way to torque instead of using a large foot lbs which doesn't really care about anything under like 20 ft lbs, run the risk of stripping or snapping a head off..
I say this because a lot of the bike is aluminum, the frame so forth, aluminum is soft and strips real easy, yet you don't want the bolt or nut backing off..
so if you use the manual, find said bolt or nut, then it will have symbols for legends like a map, it may have a tiny red bottle, denoting red lok-tite follow this like a religion, its your safety here, why you don't want to use any fasteners not for the bike... USE OEM ONLY, follow torque and any loktite or notes.. they use a black, purple, red and blue legend symbol on nuts and bolts...
they do this cuz some loktite you want to hold hard and it must be heat resistant.. like brake rotor bolts, but the more hard core the loktite is the harder they are to remove, so they only have you use red in the critical areas like rotors... sprocket nuts do not need to be heat resistant so you use the blue, some you use a black silicone sealer style like fuel pump, valve cover and engine bolts.. to seal oil and gas so forth.. then low strength purple on stuff that like to vibrate loose but has a low torque spec.. say maybe your clutch perch handle bolt? um speedo bolt, stuff like that bolted to the aluminum frame so on so forth... they denote what each torque spec is and what not if any other additives are to be used or washers so forth... all in the manual, sometimes you have to look at the chapter then it has that info right there, depends who published the book, chiltons whatever.. follow this,
I'd go through that wire harness with a fine tooth comb, remove the pair module and block that off remove evap canister, plug all that off where it needs to be.. good start... then clean as you go, you may want to inspect everything? you dunno if its been sitting outside or what? stock wheel bearings are not sealed, if the grease is flushed out they could seize up on you, maybe check and relube your swingarm bearings and headstock too, maybe you want sealed wheel bearings and tapered headstock bearings?
know what you have, specially wheel bearings.. I always like to install a good sealed bearing, just me tho. I typically go all new cables, hoses all that, then you know where it is and when it needs inspected.. last thing ya wanna do is put a bunch of money into a bike getting it going, go on a long ride then have a clutch cable snap.. sucks
at least have spares in the trunk just in case? the hoses on those bikes are due either way, 20 year old bike that old rubber is rotted or bout to rott.. your in there may as well get it all up to snuff, that's a nice bike well worth it..
The title and vin check say 99 gsx-r600x. the engine vin says 750.
I picked this bike up from a lein sale out of a tow impound yard. I'm going thru everything from front to back and orderiugn and fixing issues as i find them. the 750 motor made sense why there was badly spliced wires and all the vacum wires half done.
welp, you very well may have a 600 frame and 750 engine, swingarm and front end..
a lot of folks upgraded the 600 to 750 when parts came available, licensed as a 600 insurance cost less, a little
my advice is that you source a known good 750 wiring harness front to rear, then an ECU if you cannot confirm this is a 750 ECU..
someone may not have gotten the entire kit and lacked the ECU and harness why its all cut up, they were trying to get it to run on the 600 harness?
gonna save yourself a lot of headache getting a known good working 750 harness and go from there..
is there a charcoal canister bolted to the rear sub frame?
seems real odd someone was going to do a 600/750 upgrade yet installed the charcoal canister? unless they thought it was required to run the bike? maybe they lived in cali and the inspectors looked for such an item? however the 600 never had one so it really is odd it has all that bolted up? remove it, and the pair module.. go from there
we'll work on what lines you need and so forth once you get the harness and remove the unnecessary components.. there are like 5 sensors you need, you can go to ronayers to sort all those out on the fiche..
get the service manual for sure
begin removing the canister, pair module and course a 750 harness.. best bet
The charcoal canister has already been removed. I'll check the ecm to see which 1 it is. The wires to the ecm were good it was the wires to the regulator/rectifier that were spliced in 4 places. I've already fixed those by cutting all the crap out and soldering new wire in.
pull all those hoses and lines to the canister, that hose with the wire on it is for the canister, not sure what that thing is with the clear hose on it? external pump filter? lose it, replace any and all hose with new..
have you checked to see what tank and pump you have? you need a 3 nipple tank and then the return fuel line for pressure regulator, I see the fuel supply line inspect that..
just keep going through it but clearing out the clutter and garb hats not stock or bad is a good start.. that clear line is not stock, no idea what its connected too
you might talk someone into getting you video and pics of whats supposed to be there front to back so you can see the bigger picture, then go to ronayers and order?
you might wanna pull that entire wire harness and post pics so folks can determine if its all there and 750 or 600, do you see the 4 FI connectors? your ignition harness will be critical as it has the FI light...
you need to determine what is for the 750 and remove whats for the 600, again clean that canister garb out, and the pair garb..
remove the harness lay it out, let people look at it to check if its complete, you can then inspect and clean so forth..
when you take pics you have to take clear views of whats relevant..
the only lead I can clearly make out is the TPS..
does it have fuel injector leads?
I see the one sensor in your hand looks like an FI sensor, one that bolts to left from of air box, so?
right now its too hard to tell what you have and what you don't have
remove everything, clean it out so nothing is there but the engine, remove all wiring and sensors so forth, leave throttle bodies on of course, unplug coil sticks//
lay that harness out so every lead and connector can be seen clearly, then round up all your sensors and get a shot of those..
there is like what 3 emission sensors, a tip over, 1 TPS connector, 4 coil stick leads and 4 injector connectors, 2 starter, a main ground, and a signal generator lead, crank and cam connector sensor leads..
it does have an FI valve cover with cam angle sensor right?
we'll go over the sensors and sort them and the harness, do this first, clean that mess up, basically start all over again..