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Discussion Starter #1
good evening 'all!
Thought I would share my 750 resurrection project.
Co-worker bought it as a box of parts, intending to rebuild it himself, but quickly realized how far in over his head he was. I acquired the bits and pieces for the outstanding price of $600.
Been working on this for almost 2 years now in whatever spare time I can scrounge up, which some months isn't much. :crying:
I have it completely re-assembled.
Fairings have been repaired and re-painted.
I fabricated a new windscreen from some material I found at work, and painted it to match the bike. Thinking I might cut it down further for a more interesting look, but still on the fence.
I designed a sequential LED circuit for the tail/blinkers. Still working out the details as far as mounting and such, but the end result will have the blinkers circling around each tail pod. Wanted to get the bodywork done before I got too crazy with the minor detailing. :smile:
I had to fabricate a new shifter mounting bracket as the original was damaged pretty bad.
Still need to replace the shift lever itself. Tis functional, but a little awkward as it stands.
The stator cover was cracked pretty bad, so replaced with a used one from our local salvage yard.
I re-covered the front seat because the original was in pretty sad shape. The back seat is better, but I think I will re-cover that as well, just so they match. :smile:

So... finally... I had it together enough to test! Fired up immediately, ran great except for the classic tensioner rattle. Rebuilt the tensioner and verified the timing. Now it runs great, sounds amazing. Toured my neighborhood with it a little, checking the ride, etc. Loving it. :grin2:

Then... went to start it again a couple days later and... nothing... :frown2:
Yep... the classic battery not charging syndrome...

Talked with the guy I bought it from and was informed that it had that problem before he bought it too. The previous owner replaced the stator and RR because it had the usual burned stator and fried connector.

The RR passes the meter tests, and the stator passes the ohm tests. Running the tests, the stator does not put out the correct AC voltage, in spite of looking brand new. Even the zip ties are still bright white!
At 5000 RPM, I get 34 volts on each set. Odd that all three are low, right? I usually see one set that is obviously bad when they fail.
Upon inspecting the rotor/flywheel, a couple of the magnet tabs are cracked (even tho primary magnets are layered behind the sleeve), and there is a noticeable gouge in the surface. Possibly from a previous crash? (the title does show prior salvage)
So... replaced the flywheel and still testing bad. :crying:
Since the original gentleman thought the bike was a 2000, I started thinking maybe he put the wrong parts in initially. There aren't any part numbers on the stator, but the micrometer measurements match what *should* be installed on a 99.
But the numbers are still no good. Next step will be to replace the stator with a known good one that is correct for this bike. That will have to wait for another paycheck or two though.
:gaah
Soooo close!! Getting antcy to get this thing on the road!

So all that remains is a set of mirrors and this charging issue resolved!!
Will update when I get the new parts installed!
-Troy
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also found a trick to removing the flywheel. The official Suzuki removal tool is simply an M20 1.5RH bolt, yet costs $50! Oil drain plug from a 2018 Subaru Outback fits perfectly and only costs $5.00. Worked beautifully.
 

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Nice bike and good luck. Go with oem stator and RR. I just got oem for my bike and i can see why people would buy chinese knockoff stuff. I see entire stator and RR sets on ebay for 30 bucks when oem is over 400 for the same parts.
 

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If your replacing the rectifier, https://roadstercycle.com/ this site is really where you'd want to get your mosfet at.

As for the stator, seems like you have alot of options, best of luck.

And dave, 200$ for a oem rectifier known to be prone to failure is a hard sell.

200~300$ for a new OEM stator is also hard to justify.
 

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If your replacing the rectifier, https://roadstercycle.com/ this site is really where you'd want to get your mosfet at.

As for the stator, seems like you have alot of options, best of luck.

And dave, 200$ for a oem rectifier known to be prone to failure is a hard sell.

200~300$ for a new OEM stator is also hard to justify.
it sure is specially when you can get a known BETTER one for a lot less at roadster.. the better part is worth it alone
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I hadn't heard of them before, but definitely looks like the right place to go! Spent some time browsing around the site. Considering upgrading even though the current RR seems good. Thanks for the info!
 

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That has been argued to death. The RR that I received from partzilla was actually different than the one that came on my bike. It is a mosfet RR. It is compatible with about 100 different bikes that none have had problems. So suzuki does update things.

I do agree that its hard to justify the price- especially when you can get an RR and stator kit with a new gasket on ebay for less than 30 bucks. You could change it out every season for 15 years and still save money- that is if it doesn’t destroy your battery, cause you to miss a track day, or need a pickup truck ride home. Oh yeah, almost forgot, or cause you to crash.

Aftermarket RR and stators suggested by people with personal experience may be fine too. It sounds like roadster is okay since people with personal experience and knowledge are recommending.

Good luck with the project and keep updating us.
 

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Stators are a contact part.. OEM or not, they wear out eventually....

A cheap one might be made of cheaper materials, but really there isn't much to "cheap out" on a block/stack wrapped with wire.. Maybe the wire shielding or the block of metal itself? I've never actually seen a stator completely die of natural causes though, bike drops and damaged internals busting up the stator happen far more often , perhaps a cheapo aftermarket stator is a bit weaker, but even if it was made of glass, a impact hard enough to damage a stator would do more dmg to the bike elsewhere trivializing the damage done to the stator itself. But since the OP has tested the stator and its supplying under supplying 20V's AC (@5000 rpm when cold), even if it's new it seems likely he's going to need to replace it.... To each their own on a aftermarket stator vs used vs new OEM... I didn't push a recommendation because it's pretty insignificant , a working stator is a working stator and not much more.... OP seems to know what he's doing , a mosfet RR was a good recommendation, and it's ultimately his choice if he wishes to replace anything on his bike. Unfortunately I don't think anyone has any tips on how he can achieve a extra 20V output to reach the needed above 55V....

Also the stator is straight current supply. It's the Rectifiers job to ensure it doesn't fry your wiring when the engine is buzzing around at 14k rpms... The stator if it fails, it shouldn't damage your system, the purpose of the rectifier is to prevent that... The oem falls short often on doing it's job...

I would like to argue your fear invoking statements but you have some truth to those possibilities. But between a OEM stator and a aftermarket stator, those are equal risks. ... cause you to crash.... cmon shit fails... good or bad... if you crash out because you fail to notice your system is no longer charging and your running purely on your battery... I'm sorry that sucks but the risk is equal on this given situation.... Miss a track day? I'm betting if your at the track and your stator crapped out, you'd be able to find a battery to use to rip around to make your day a sucess even if there wasn't a supplier there or nearby to toss ya a stator to run total loss.... need a ride home kuz nobody else on the road willing to give ya a jump for a bit to charge the batt, sure maybe... but if you don't already have a plan of action for a in case ones stuck on the side of the road and stranded, might want to consider getting some form of road side assistance service.... Shit man, even brand new stuff fails unexpectedly.... if your fearful to even be alive... hows that living? But yea by all means choose whatever makes you confident and feel comfortable with you bike. But a stator from china isn't gona kill you. It isn't going to make you live longer either... A rectifier knock off or the orig OEM srad rectifiers on the other hand... they might cause some bad shit to occur.

Neat you got a mosfet from partzilla when you ordered one, curious..what bike / model / year/ and.. what was the oem part number?
 

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I didnt mean to hijack the thread on you. I have been talking about my bike and to answer the question its an 08 GSXR 600 and i made a thread about the RR and stator if you want to read through it.

OP- You seem to be pretty good mechanically and Im guessing you changed all the fluids. I would check the date on the tires if you haven't already changed them. What else have you done and inspected?
 

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a Mosfet semi conductor is a "better" semi conductor where HEAT is involved

the Roadster Is Mosfet, the Suzuki is NOT

I heard R-1's are Mosfet R/R's and they connect but only 1 bolt bolts up?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Brake reservoir is a little scuffed up, but fluid is clear and pressure is good.
Flushed the coolant and filled her up with fresh while troubleshooting an overheating complaint from the previous owner.
Turns out the temp sensor was good, but the switch itself was intermittent.
Fresh oil and filter. No metal or other contaminants found in the old oil.
Tires look good yet, plenty of tread, no cracks or uneven wear. Will look for date when I get to the garage next.

The bike is looking loads better than it did, though it still shows some scars. I'm not even sure I want to make it look perfect. Right now it has 'character' :wacko

Have a replacement stator en-route. Should be here in a few days and then we'll see what we get!
Fingers crossed!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So the parts arrived and wrong part in the box. Box was labeled correctly, but the part was way wrong. I believe from a 09-ish era instead of 99. :gaah

Current one on the left... new one on the right. :eek

Awaiting return RMA and replacement part now.

Getting itchy to ride. So close!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Long wait for the update, but finally switched out the parts.
The Caltric brand is on the left and the Rick's is on the right.
Rick's looks like a rebuilt unit rather than brand new.
Diameter looks way different, but is actually pretty close to the same, but the Rick's one is a bit thicker.
Installed it this afternoon and finally have a good AC reading!!
Charging system is once again charging!
I can finally put the fairings back on and maybe get in a few days riding before winter!
 

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TwistedMister
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