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Discussion Starter #21
Confused ! your saying your not getting fuel flowing to the carbs - that would mean your not getting fuel coming from the tank to the carbs ?
Or in the lines - are you saying your not getting fuel come out of the lines when disconnected and in the prime position ?
You should get fuel to flow into your carb bowls unless all needles are sticking.
As rbrralph says open bowl drain and see if fuel come out when tap in prime position.
I meant with my tank off the bike the fuel flows with vacuum on Res but prime does not work on or off the bike so I use Res not enough gas to try On setting but assuming would work to. The new fuel tap coming will solve the prime issue but not the fuel flow to carbs I'm assuming.The needles must be stuck when it did run a short time throttle was unresponsive.
 

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Just a side note. I've found that it's very easy to flood a bike when using carb cleaner or starting fluid. I had been trying to start mine mine and thought I still had carb issues but when I pulled the plugs they were very wet even after a fair amount of cranking. After working on the carbs my 1100 and CBR 900 both would pop and try but no go till I dried the plugs.
 

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If you sprayed carb cleaner through the air filter it would have gone straight into the engine, it would not get into the bowls.
But old fuel can definitely gum up the bowls - you should add Sta-Bill to the tank before leaving over winter, its a fuel stabilizer which stops the fuel going stale and stops gumming.
Fuel goes off after 3 months the longer it sits the less volatile's it has which is what fires the engine, stale fuel also makes the plugs dirty.
Try fresh fuel and definitely pull the plugs and give them a clean, just use a fine wire brush and flush off with carb cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Just a side note. I've found that it's very easy to flood a bike when using carb cleaner or starting fluid. I had been trying to start mine mine and thought I still had carb issues but when I pulled the plugs they were very wet even after a fair amount of cranking. After working on the carbs my 1100 and CBR 900 both would pop and try but no go till I dried the plugs.
Yeah I normally dont use starting fluid or carb cleaner...My bikes been pretty reliable starting up just after sitting a week or eve winter months does it take a while sometimes.. This is the longest I ever had an issue like this. I will check the plugs and drain the float bowls. Want to avoid pulling the carbs off the bike til i tried everything possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If you sprayed carb cleaner through the air filter it would have gone straight into the engine, it would not get into the bowls.
But old fuel can definitely gum up the bowls - you should add Sta-Bill to the tank before leaving over winter, its a fuel stabilizer which stops the fuel going stale and stops gumming.
Fuel goes off after 3 months the longer it sits the less volatile's it has which is what fires the engine, stale fuel also makes the plugs dirty.
Try fresh fuel and definitely pull the plugs and give them a clean, just use a fine wire brush and flush off with carb cleaner.
Yeah I only used like a a sec. squirt in each carb from the airbox..I normally use stabilizer bit didnt this past season. I did put over 100 miles on my bike since took it out of storage. I topped of the tank once sofar.. But I will try the plugs and some carb cleaner, etc.. I was also looking at the gas/vac line(s) routing. I was wondering if they go under/between the throttle/choke cables or above.? I have em' going over- seems the best route and for connecting the tank..
 

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I don't know if it's correct or not but I've been running the lines over the throttle cables.

One more needle/seat/float trick. I usually do this with after pulling the carbs but you can do it on the bike. I measure how much fuel is in each bowl by collecting and it thorough the drain into a small bottle and marking it (I don't own a graduated cylinder). Somewhere there's probably a spec for how many cc's should be in each carb but I don't know it so I look for consistency.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That seems to work the best route for my bike also plus to connect/disconnect. lines.

I started to tinker with it alittle today. I dont see where or how to drain the float bowls on the bike.? Everything so tight in there. I'm gonna check the plugs as the tank is off again. I'm gonna get some fresh Sunoco non ethanol gas I believe that new fuel tap will be arriving soon. Be great if that happens to be the issue.Included pics of the carbs on my bike. A good cleaning is what they probably need.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The drains should point left on the two left carbs and point right on the two View attachment 572064 right carbs.
Oh Ok I seen those there. I think the ones on the outside I can catch the gas not sure about the ones in the middle.maybe just throw a rag under it..Wow those carbs look brand new! The new fuel tap came today I was hoping it was gonna start right up. Went and got some fresh gas. Put everything all back together. No luck a little smoke out of the pipe that's about it. No fuel is coming down its just like my old fuel tap..Still gotta check the plugs but not sure if that will help with fuel flowing. Thanks
 

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Is that petcock new? Expensive?

The carbs are 38mm from my '94 750 with about 4500 miles and now on the 1100. They've always looked like that on the outside but the insides have been pretty mucked up from time to time.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Is that petcock new? Expensive?

The carbs are 38mm from my '94 750 with about 4500 miles and now on the 1100. They've always looked like that on the outside but the insides have been pretty mucked up from time to time.
Yes brand new petcock. Partzilla has it for $182. Found it online $150. The Prime didnt work on my old one but Res and On was fine. Not a real big deal still could of used it.. I probably would of left it on there should I cleaned the plugs and noticed this! wow no wonder no start!

I also opened up the one carb float bowl left side plenty of gas in it but empty now. Bike ran good before all this non starting surprized how bad the plugs are.
 

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As an alternative to cleaning there are Autolite equivalents that are pretty cheap. Some auto parts stores even stock them. I use them while tuning then go back to the pricier plugs once all the fooling around is over.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
As an alternative to cleaning there are Autolite equivalents that are pretty cheap. Some auto parts stores even stock them. I use them while tuning then go back to the pricier plugs once all the fooling around is over.
I ran the Autolites in my GS700ES decent plug.I actually still have my old plugs that are clean and dry. I ll probably just through those in for now. Toss the caked ones away.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Plug #2 pic 3 & 4 werent to bad...Anyways, cleaned them up close to new and bike fire right up...Was the plugs! Gonna change oil every year instead sometimes every other.. Thanks!
 

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