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Discussion Starter #1
Hi-having trouble getting my bike to run after lifting the tank and recharging the air filter.I did remove the metal mesh flame arrestor (put it back and same issue) wonder if that will change my air/fuel mixture?. Seems like its not getting gas down to the carbs. when I pull the tank there is NO gas in the lines that should be leaking out.I did rebuild the petcock with repair kit. Maybe its electrical? Any ideas of what I can try would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Hi,
I do not think it is electrical. I would check the flow on your gas tank by putting a vacuum line to the back of your pet cock and sucking on it and holding the vacuum and gas should come out of both of your gas lines coming from the petcock.
And you should be able to turn your petcock to Prime (PRI) and gas should just start dumping out all the time without vacuum on the petcock.
I have a 93 GSXR 1100 and i had trouble with the petcock on it.
It would not flow enough to run the bike over 60 or 70 mile an hour unless I push in the lever to the petcock in and then it flowed out good.
And having your air box off or unhooked, will make no difference to the way it runs at an idle, or starting or just off idle, on 99% of the bikes I have worked on.
The PRI on the petcock is for when you had the bike not running for a week or two or just rebuild the carburetors. It will fill the carburetors up before trying to start the bike.
With the petcock on on or Reserve no gas should come out of the petcock until you put vacuum on the vacuum line that goes to the petcock That is in case one of your needles in the carburetor does not hold. it will empty your gas tank down inside your crankcase.
Stay safe out there I hope this helps you馃弽馃弽馃弽
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi,
I do not think it is electrical. I would check the flow on your gas tank by putting a vacuum line to the back of your pet cock and sucking on it and holding the vacuum and gas should come out of both of your gas lines coming from the petcock.
And you should be able to turn your petcock to Prime (PRI) and gas should just start dumping out all the time without vacuum on the petcock.
I have a 93 GSXR 1100 and i had trouble with the petcock on it.
It would not flow enough to run the bike over 60 or 70 mile an hour unless I push in the lever to the petcock in and then it flowed out good.
And having your air box off or unhooked, will make no difference to the way it runs at an idle, or starting or just off idle, on 99% of the bikes I have worked on.
The PRI on the petcock is for when you had the bike not running for a week or two or just rebuild the carburetors. It will fill the carburetors up before trying to start the bike.
With the petcock on on or Reserve no gas should come out of the petcock until you put vacuum on the vacuum line that goes to the petcock That is in case one of your needles in the carburetor does not hold. it will empty your gas tank down inside your crankcase.
Stay safe out there I hope this helps you馃弽馃弽馃弽
Maybe the petcock is bad. Noticed the prime didn't work well a little came out when pushed it in..does need to be pushed into to work? The fuel flowed when on reserve with vacuum. applied wasnt enough gas to try on setting but probably would flow. I'm thinking on ordering a new petcock.Thanks
 

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I believe your '96 is like my '95. You don' t have to push the selector in because the groove will automatically "push" when you turn to the prime position. The long pin move towards the right and opens the internal shut off the same way vacuum does from the other side.
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Discussion Starter #5
I believe your '96 is like my '95. You don' t have to push the selector in because the groove will automatically "push" when you turn to the prime position. The long pin move towards the right and opens the internal shut off the same way vacuum does from the other side. View attachment 571998 View attachment 571999
rbrralph YES I have the same exact valve. So if no gas spewing when when turned to Pri than the valve(front selector grooved piece) is bad? I did notice Pri was the only place you could push it in a hair and thought maybe was like a safety feature.I did get very little gas coming out when pushed it in on pri. I was hoping the rebuild kit would work but guess need a new valve.I know if I dont get it fixed soon I'll also need a new starter and battery! Thanks!
 

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When you had it apart did you notice if the two lugs are still attached to the "selector"? The last two petcocks that I've taken apart had the two small lugs that twist the plastic "barrel" broken off. It looks like when these sit for too long the plastic barrel gets stuck in the housing. When you twist the selector the stuck barrel causes the lugs to break off. I'm looking at a way to fix this but haven't gotten around to it yet.
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I might consider looking into getting an aftermarket pingel petcock for it.
But it don't have a vacuum operated shut off on it you will have to turn the pingle petcock, on and off when you get on and off the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When you had it apart did you notice if the two lugs are still attached to the "selector"? The last two petcocks that I've taken apart had the two small lugs that twist the plastic "barrel" broken off. It looks like when these sit for too long the plastic barrel gets stuck in the housing. When you twist the selector the stuck barrel causes the lugs to break off. I'm looking at a way to fix this but haven't gotten around to it yet. View attachment 572004
Yes I noticed those tabs.1st I thought they were same size.but noticed there different can go in plastic only 1 way.yeah that be probably tough to fix. too bad they don't sell just the spindle part separate.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I might consider looking into getting an aftermarket pingel petcock for it.
But it don't have a vacuum operated shut off on it you will have to turn the pingle petcock, on and off when you get on and off the bike.
I did see those pingel ones. but aslong as there some OEM around I'd go with one of those. I'll tinker around getting the prime to work on this one. if no luck than I'll have to get a new one. hope to be back riding soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I ordered new petcock since the prime isn't working .but it might not be solving my no starting issue..thinking the floats might be stuck since no gas will flow even when I added vacuum when on Res and wouldn't start .Are the carbs hard to clean up.? will they need to be removed off the bike?.i'd rather wait til the fall or winter to clean them up completely. thanks
 

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I've had the carbs off my '95 five times in the last month. Once the side fairing are off I was able to pull them in 12 minutes the last time. If you're relatively handy then you should be fine. If the o rings are original I'd plan on replacing all of them. Use screw drivers that fit properly. It's easy to bugger up things with sloppy fitting tools. Be very careful when handling the plastic float assemblies. They are easy to break. I'd expect to replace the pilot jets rather than cleaning old ones if clogged. I use a guitar sring for some cleaning but even a .012" string was too large for the pilot jet holes.

Watch out for the clutch line getting between the airbox and the frame. That little bit of space will hang up the carbs when trying to slide them out. I've found the key to an easy removal is to get the air box as far back as possible.

If they need cleaning I wouldn't wait. Clean carbs can make a BIG difference in how an older bike runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've had the carbs off my '95 five times in the last month. Once the side fairing are off I was able to pull them in 12 minutes the last time. If you're relatively handy then you should be fine. If the o rings are original I'd plan on replacing all of them. Use screw drivers that fit properly. It's easy to bugger up things with sloppy fitting tools. Be very careful when handling the plastic float assemblies. They are easy to break. I'd expect to replace the pilot jets rather than cleaning old ones if clogged. I use a guitar sring for some cleaning but even a .012" string was too large for the pilot jet holes.

Watch out for the clutch line getting between the airbox and the frame. That little bit of space will hang up the carbs when trying to slide them out. I've found the key to an easy removal is to get the air box as far back as possible.

If they need cleaning I wouldn't wait. Clean carbs can make a BIG difference in how an older bike runs.
Wow- sounds right. Just what mine probably needs. Is there a kit can you buy that has all the new o rings, etc. ? I basically had the time but dont seem I will next week. I been real good at gas tank removal and assembly. I wonder for the time being shooting some carb cleaner in the gas lines followed by some strong dilution of Seafoam in the tank followed by an Italian tune up.? I really want to get back on my bike! Thanks
 

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Why not just attach a temp fuel supply with your tank off - then if bike runs you will know if its the fuel tap or something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Why not just attach a temp fuel supply with your tank off - then if bike runs you will know if its the fuel tap or something else.
I noticed with the tank off the bike with vacuum applied Res setting gas flows fine but on the Prime setting I get nothing so I have a new fuel tap on the way. Should solve that issue. Seems like I'm hearing floats/needles are probably stuck or gummed up no air flow so no gas can go down right? Was hoping to get it running this weekend.
 

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If your clogging/cleanliness problems are minor then cleaning via something in the fuel might work. I've tried that from time to time but never been that lucky.

As 91OilCooled recommended, a remote fuel source is handy. Mine is questionable but I keep fire extinguishers handy. Better ones are not expensive.

I don't know about a good kit. I ordered one for mine but found that a lot of sources are not aware of the fact (at least for my 1995) that US spec bikes got 36mm carbs not 40mm like most of the world. The 40mm (and my 750s 38s) use a replaceable brass seat which the 36s don't have. I don't have the link handy but others on this forum have recommended an inexpensive source for o ring kits that when combining an "A" and "B" kit seem pretty complete.
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Discussion Starter #17
Well I'm Not getting any fuel flowing to the carbs or in the line. Spent good part of the day trying. Does that mean the there's clogging in the carbs? Looks like i'm gonna have to remove them..Doesnt look to easy either.lol . I'm wondering to get a rebuild kit or bring them to the garage but wondering how much (2 hrs labor) would it be and how long are they gonna have them for being super busy now and some shops just opening back up.I'd probably try do them myself...I dont think the new fuel tap coming will solve the problem but I'll wait and see before I pull the carbs.
 

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How long was the bike parked? With gas left in the carbs I've had cases where I had to remove and dissemble carbs after one winter. I have seen the viton needle tips stick in brass seats after a couple of seasons of sitting. Sometimes bikes fire right up after a couple of years but most of the time a carb clean is beneficial even if they run.

DId you open the bowl drain screws to verify the carbs are not getting fuel? If you bypassed the petcock and the carbs are dry I think the answer is disassemble.
 

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Confused ! your saying your not getting fuel flowing to the carbs - that would mean your not getting fuel coming from the tank to the carbs ?
Or in the lines - are you saying your not getting fuel come out of the lines when disconnected and in the prime position ?
You should get fuel to flow into your carb bowls unless all needles are sticking.
As rbrralph says open bowl drain and see if fuel come out when tap in prime position.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How long was the bike parked? With gas left in the carbs I've had cases where I had to remove and dissemble carbs after one winter. I have seen the viton needle tips stick in brass seats after a couple of seasons of sitting. Sometimes bikes fire right up after a couple of years but most of the time a carb clean is beneficial even if they run.

DId you open the bowl drain screws to verify the carbs are not getting fuel? If you bypassed the petcock and the carbs are dry I think the answer is disassemble.
My bike fired up 5-10 mins after sitting all winter. Ran great til I sprayed a little intake carb cleaner.sat few days than won't start.gas was left in carbs.i'll have to try draining bowls next.the cleaner I used must of got gummed up on needles.
 
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