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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I'm the stickies it's mentioned there is a 10 degree ignition timing difference between the two bikes but in another post it was said there is only 1 degree. Can somebody confirm either of these?

Fitting a carbed 750 engine into a 1998 600 bike. CDI, coils, are loom all still 600

If they are not compatible would changing the cam timing gear from the 600 work(much cheaper than 750 CDI)
 

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you want to use the 600 ECU coils and loom? hmm, you might get triggering issues unless the coils are the same and ignition timing all that.. check the coils specs, are they the same? no way you can get a 750 ECU? I guess you can try shouldn't hurt anything it just might not time correctly.. certainly someone here has done this?

certainly the 750 doesn't know what coils are installed but will the spark be strong enough? and can you even throw 750 sticks on a 600 UEC as in is the low voltage to coil the same, and is the signal from the pulse generator the same?

check the pulse generator signal in ohms, volts all that, if it's the same then it's a matter of positioning maybe the 600 pulse generator bolts up to the 750 and the engine won't know the difference, if its an ohm value or voltage you might install an inline capacitor or diode whatever to match required value?

then it's onto coils, how far off are they and will 750 sticks work in the 600, or are they close enough heatwise to work, you wont want a colder spark, lots of pre-det so forth, shoddy performance..

there may be something else I am missing, never done this myself but seems to me if you can get the 600 PG and the coils right it should work long as the timing map in the ECU is similar, fairly close?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alot of info there to think about.
Coils are from the 600.
Not sure which pulse generator is on it now since the 750 engine was bought a box of pieces and I threw the pg from my 600 in the same box after the 725 build didn't work out, think they was the same part number though.

Just ordered a ECU from a 97 srad but no wiring looms for sale right now, wanted get engine fitted and see if runs this weekend so will have to try with 600 for now
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Didnt start with 600 cdi but did soon as fitted 750 cdi
Ticking from front right side, around cct or the cylinders near
Seems like clutch wont disenage even with it fully wound out and loose, 1st gear no clutch in and doesnt stall when stood still, pulls very very vwery gently forward even with bit of revs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It was a manual

Now ithe rattle is much louder after I have done the following

1.changed to auto auto tensioner from manual
2. loosened the cam cap nuts slightly since I'm sure I tightened too much, checked clearances all in middle of spec, one exhaust at loose end ,28
3. Unscrewed the side of the clutch adjustment under the rubber cover, it was this causing clutch not to dis-engage

Lost a touch a oil out the cam cover since middle bolt threaded and can't tighten in the middle
 

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sounds like it very well may be valve train components, I think it's possible to look at much of it removing the valve cover and the side covers.. least get a good idea how much stretch it has and the condition of the rear guides what not sprockets all that, valve shims aren't loose or tight are they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Noise did go back down to how it was previously after changing back to manual CCT so think your right with valve train. How will you know if chain is over stretched?

Messed up with torquing the cam caps boots to 10nm, didn't hear a click with torque wrench and snapped 2 of the bolts in the center. The clearances didn't change near where there snapped though.
One intake is on the end of spec at .20 and two exhaust are towards to end of spec at 0.28

rich almost stalling while pulling away in garden with with 600 carbs 2nd needle clip 10.,0 afr, it only raised to 10.8 with it on first clip, if a change in float height doesn't work then will fit the bigger 750 carbs
 
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