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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the tranny out....and now the dogs don't look bad. I am going to pull them off the shaft and check them real good. Shift forks are straight so I left them in the lower case. Worn dogs should be real obvious, right??? Could there be anything else that would make second gear jump? Help me......I want to get this bike finished after seeing so many bikes on the rode this weekend!
 

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I have the exact same question about my 86 750. I have the case apart and my forks look great.
(but what do I know)

Whenever I would downshift from 1st to second it would grind and make nasty sounds.

Later in the season I broke 2nd gear. Maybe the gear was just wore out so it shifted bad.

Any input would be great.

GregW
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine always down shifted smooth but would jump in second gear when you opened up the throttle even the slighest bit. At first it seemed like the tire was breaking free but them you could obviously tell it was second gear bad. I let the local suzuki mechanic ride it and he said it was second gear or a shift fork that was bad. I couldn't afford to pay to fix it so I did it myself but nothing looks bad. What do I do??? Help us????
 

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There is a little guide on the shift fork that goes into a groove on the shift barrel that turns as you shift up and down.

Check for wear on that. Maybe it has a chip out or the line in the barrel is worn.

I am no expert just runnin the problem through my brain and thats what I came up with.

GregW
 

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You need to take the forks out and make SURE they are straight, not just by looking in assembly, also you need to measure the thickness per the manual. You need to read the manual and follow the items they tell you to measure and inspect in the manual and you WILL find your problem then. There could be tons of different things wrong in there, bent shift shaft, bent forks, forks to thin, worn grooves in the gears, bad dogs, worn shift drum, ETC. The dogs shouls not have rounded corners, and the dog receiver in the other gears should have nice sharp corners, not rounded over at the end of the slots.



 

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I actually just picked up my new gears today and shift fork and also shift drum ... I took my transmission to a local guy here in St. Catharines ontario canada and he is the king of gixxers in Ontario for sure . Every shop I talked to said to go and see this guy and his name is Larry from Niagara Race Crafters... He looked at the gears and on the second gear itself it looked fine to me but I can see the dogs on the 5th gear were wearing out ... he informed me that untill 1990 the gixxers all had the problem of bad gears and to order the 1992 2nd and fifth gear and the third shift fork. Now I just picked up my parts today and well they did cost some money but hey if you want your bike to be right then it is the price you pay .. for all gaskets and new o-rings gaskets and liquid gasket for the case ran me about 600 canadian. with the new upgraded gears you do see a difference in dog design .. I will however tomorrow night take some pics .. I will post them here... but if you want to do it right get the 1992 second and fifth gear new shift drum and shift fork #3 and you will be fine... you really can't see a bend in the fork but the wear on the fork will be there if you have a micrometer to measure it properly.

anything else??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Second and Fifth gears look worn...you can actually feel them slip in your hand so I know I need those. What exactly is the shift drum? My forks look straight, but you guys recommend replacing them right? Do they just slip off the rod. I have my motor upside down and just removed the lower case to get to the transmission. When I go to but the lower case back together do the forks just slide into place or will I have to have someone position them in the right spot while I put the case back on. I pulled all the gears off the tranny last night and like I said second and fifth are definetly bad. I believe they are the driven gears (attached to the same shaft as the front sprocket). Is it usually the driven gears that go or should I pull the drive gears as well and look at those? Or do they both wear out???
 

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drive and drivens must be replaced in sets or they will whine, and not wear in correctly, so if 2,5 drive are bad, 2.5 driven MUST be replaced also. Nobody said replace the forks, we all said REMOVE them and inspect them per the manuals instructions. Shift drum is the round part with the race tracks in it that the forks "nipple" slide into.
 

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You can safely replace 2nd & 5th output gears without replacing the inputs. I just did one & have done many over the years & never had any of them make noise. Years ago we talked to R&D Motorsports, who cuts our transmissions, about that & they stated that this is not an issue. The shift fork doesn't have to be replaced, but the fact of the matter is, you have the motor apart. Replace the fork & the drum along with 2nd & 5th, that way there is no question that the repair is done correctly.
 

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rimmer, was that on your 86 750 engine you got those gears for. They fit? More info please. I am very interested to hear more about this. As I have heard that 2nd gear breaks like glass on thease things.

Thanks

GregW
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2/5 Drive gears look more solid than my low driven gear. Should I just replace the whole damn transmission???????????????????????????? I have torn everything apart. 2/5 driven gears are bad that is all I am planning on replacing as of tonight. I want everyones opinion. I do tend to agree or lean toward the replace forks, drum, and gears just while it is apart. ????????????????? [email protected]#K IT I just want to race motocross again. I am done with the street.
 

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Call R&D Motorsports,MRE,Orient Express, or any of the reputable transmission places, and they will tell you the same thing that I've been saying all along. They are also going to tell you that if you want this repair to last that you should have had 2nd & 5th undercut. Replace the two gears,shift fork, & drum and put it back together.
 

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Listen first of all you have to go and purchase alot of parts once you split your case and you don't want to use old o-rings that have been compressed once already. Pm me and I can give you a list of parts with part ##'s that you will need for it to be done right and not half assed. The o-rings are seals for oil sending unit and return lines.. you don't wanna use old ones. and all you have to replace is 2nd gear and fifth gear on the output shaft and then shift fork #3.

very inexpensive for what the bike is right .. PM me and I can create you a list
 

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I agree with rimmer, but you have to replace the shift drum as well or you'll be doing this again real soon. The groove that #3 shift fork rides in is worn to the point that it will not allow second gear to fully engage. They will pull themselves together for awhile, but it will start jumping out of gear as soon as you round the dogs off of 2nd. Lots of luck with reassembly, hope all goes well.
 

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adbusa is right .. you have to change it all .. lucky for you I had just cracked my case and I am looking to purchase a whole new motor with a good tranny ( 89 and up ) so I have to complete counter gear shaft and drive shaft complete with new gears and then I also have the new shift forks and shift drum and all the gaskets and o-rings that you will need.. I spent $565 canadian so I can sell the whole set to yeah for somewhere around 375 US plus shipping let me know I also have posted them up for sale in the for sale section.. everything is brand new not even used yet ..
 
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