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Anyone have some tips on doing a service with these forks. I have done plenty of dirt bike fork tubes but none of these yet. Got the service manual, doesn’t say anything about a spring compressor but I’m sure I won’t need it????
 

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enjoys eating dicks
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Look at the video from partzilla.com. I think it's for the 08 model but should be the same instructions. Check it out on youtube bro
 

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Here is your "R"
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Let us know if you find any diy, as ive been searching with no luck. More likely you will need special tools to remove the top cap, and the inner nut.
 

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Uses squid tentacles as a butt-plug
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Let us know if you find any diy, as ive been searching with no luck. More likely you will need special tools to remove the top cap, and the inner nut.
You should need special tools to remove it. Make sure the manual is handy and you read twice before servicing. They are alot like dirtbike forks but also alot different not much harder to service though.
 

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I will suggest getting a proper fork seal driver. I do all my own work and tried to save money by using pvc pipe to drive the seal. I heard claims that it was the exact same as using a seal driver. It was close and worked but i did not like the way it contacted the seal. It would be very easy to damage the seal using pvc. Get a driver.
 

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Keep us updated how u make out please, I am mechanically inclined but never did fork seals most of my bikes probably leaked in the past and I did not pay it much mind however new bike this yr new leaf I guess.I have one that’s leaking k6 1000 it’s bugging me I think so much bc I had to do front brake pads the pads were not wore down but they squeaked after checking out the pads before I changed them I figured out the one inner pad was falling apart not worn down the rotor looks good who knows why they came with the bike could be a million reasons why but it is possible the fluid from the fork was getting on the pad looking at the drip pattern and caliper/rotor.... I’m thinking about tackling the project my self save around 200$ but it may be worth paying to have it done if anyone has some advice please lmk
 

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I have done many fork seals and removing them from the bike is really the hardest part.
My suggestions and tips:
1. Make note of your current settings. Back all of the adjustments off. This includes compression, rebound, and spring preload. This will relieve some spring pressure and make it easier to purge air out of the oil later.
2. Loosen the fork cap using a six-point socket (12-point will cause more damage to the hex finish) before loosening the pinch bolts on the triple tree. It is a large hex so you can always rent one from the local auto parts store.
3. The cartridge is held in the lower fork tube with a socket head Allen. The manual will tell you to use a special cartridge retaining tool. You can get around this by using an impact and shocking it. If you keep the trigger pulled, the cartridge will just spin with the allen. But it you press/release several times it will spin out no problem. Do the same when tightening until it is snug, then put a torque wrench on it.
The problem with the above mentioned allen, is that it is deep in a counterbore above the axle. Since you are using an impact, you'll need an allen that extends several inches beyond the socket as a 3/8" drive socket will not fit in the counterbore. Pull that allen out of the 3/8" drive socket, find a 1/4" drive 6-point socket the same size as the allen and use that with an adapter.
4. Buy a quality seal driver or borrow one from a buddy. They are made of brass and have enough weight to drive the seal.
 

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No problem. Don't be scared of it like i was my first time. I guarantee you will do a better job than any mechanic.
5. Use quality seals or you'll be doing it again in no time.
6. Use fine scotch bright pad or steel wool on the inner tube to remove any nicks caused by rocks, etc.
7. Pay attention to which way the seals are to be installed. Take note of how they were installed, then verify that is correct. Maybe the last guy put them in upside-down.
8. You must have a service manual. They are available for download here, or pm me and I'll get it to you.
9. Do it on a clean workbench and lay the parts out as they are removed.
10. Consider changing the springs to match your weight and riding style.
11. Use micro-fiber rags and brake cleaner to clean everything thoroughly. You will be shocked how dirty the oil is. People done realize how often it is supposed to be changed.
12. Cover the corner of the inner tube with electrical tape or plastic wrap. Lube the inside of the seal with oil and be very gentle sliding it over that corner as it tends to be very sharp.
13. Set spring preload and damping to the stock settings and try it. You can always go back to what it was.
 

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I agree, don't be scared. Go ahead and buy the spring compressor from race tech, that's what I did, it made it just so easy and no-nonsense. Plus you will be more inclined to change the oil more regularly. Other tools you could use is the fork seal driver, race tech spring compressor, bleeder tool, there is only a few tools. You can look up my thread I just did this on my 08 600, you can see the tools. And like previously mentioned having a neat clean work area always makes the job easier.
Go here to see what I did:

https://www.gixxer.com/forums/137-08-10-gsx-r600-750/832028-2008-gsxr600-track-bike-fork-oil-change-brake-upgrade.html
 

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Here is your "R"
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I have done many forks, just never messed with these bigger showas. The thing with forks is to be super clean inside, the smallest rock or sand can destroy your seals.



Heres a video I found on youtube



 
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