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Discussion Starter #1
Alright onto the next issue with this cursed bike!

2011 GSXR 1000 doesn't want to start. Acts like a dead battery, but has had 2 new batteries in the last 6 months.

Megaboost platinum from cycle gear.

Exchanged them and noe have a duraboost acid battery in it now waiting on a charge.

Bike is on a stand,
ignition switch in the correct position.
Kickstand up
In neutral

Fuel pump primes, I can hear the starter relay click over (with the main fuse)
Starter will whirl right now (not engaging)

Couple tries and nada, everything comes on fine until o hit the start switch and it acts like there's no juice in the battery.

Even hooked up with jumper cables I still have the same issue.

Not a SINGLE burnt coil in stator, rectifier had a little build-up in the plugs and I cleaned that.
Starter has a good connection, all grounds feel secure and looked clear.

Any ideas? I'm not blowing any fuses, I'm about to disconnect the main harness from the headlights and see if that helps any.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Went to go sell it the other night and it died on the test ride leaving potential buyer stranded (thankfully I drove my truck to deliver) stalled out on him.

Ever since I can't get it to start. First when I tried it just did a million clicks like a bad battery. That's about all the information I have as to what went wrong
 

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What does the dash say?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Alright, so I tore the clutch cover off thinking worse case scenario and decided to check the starter clutch. Maybe.. Maybe my luck was bad enough..

Nope.. Take the idle gear off, hit the start button real quick and the starter moves freely.. Ok that's one thing..

Turn the starter clutch by hand moves in one direction like it should... Holy hell, my luck isn't that bad..

So now tomorrow, I get to tell everyone at cyclegear their batteries are SHIT now compared to how they were a couple years ago.. Everything in the starting system is working the way it is supposed to... Guessing the batteries I've gotten at this point no longer can produce the damn CCA's to start the bike
 

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You say:

Starter will whirl right now (not engaging)
But then you go on to say:

Couple tries and nada, everything comes on fine until o hit the start switch and it acts like there's no juice in the battery.
So what is the problem exactly? Does the bike seem to behave fine, but when you hit the starter button, the starter turns very slowly? Does that always happen, or sometimes/under certain conditions? I find it unlikely that it's the battery, with 2 new batteries and jumper cables having the same result.

Also, why did the bike stall on the prospective buyer? Was that just a matter of rider error, or does the bike stall once started?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To answer your questions.

What exactly is going on?
I turn the key and everything cycles properly. Cluster goes through RPM and display normally. I go go start the bike, and everything either dims or the starter will try and engage but no start... like it's not getting enough juice to actually turn the motor over

I have one person keep telling me it's shit Cycle Gear batteries, but 3/3 having issues starting? Odds of that happening?

For the perspective buyer. I'm not sure, he took off just fine, then I get a call about two minutes later saying the bike stalled on him and wouldn't restart..

Rider error? Possibly it's been a while since he rode, but at the same time.. Bike should've restarted if it was a "simple" stall out
 

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Well, I'll assume it he was responsible for stalling it and it didn't restart, because it wouldn't crank, since it's the issue under investigation. Do you have a DMM? It think you should test the battery and charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I'll assume it he was responsible for stalling it and it didn't restart, because it wouldn't crank, since it's the issue under investigation. Do you have a DMM? It think you should test the battery and charging system.
I'll go with the same assumption at the moment.

Battery I was able to sort of rule out (nothing is out at the moment) but brother will be returning my multimeter later today so I can dig into it.

Why suggest charging system though? Wouldn't the problem lay in the starting system? Sorry curious on why it's suggested as nothing will be left untouched at the moment
 

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Why suggest charging system though? Wouldn't the problem lay in the starting system? Sorry curious on why it's suggested as nothing will be left untouched at the moment
I was thinking that perhaps the battery is fine, but it's not being charged, so that it drains after one ride. If it started up fine when you changed to a fresh battery, but then couldn't start again the next time, that's likely it. If changing the battery made no difference whatsoever, from the first moment after installing it, then it sounds like a problem, either internal in the starter, or of the wiring feeding it, (or its ground). If there's increased resistance, the starter wouldn't be able to draw enough current to turn.

A DMM could shed some light into all of this.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry finally got the multimeter back.

Just from unloading it from the truck and checking 2 things. This is what I have at the moment.

Battery shows 12.4v when I go to start it's drops around 6.2v

Starter solenoid checked to where it's good enough to click (reason I didn't suspect it was bad) buy on start it drops down to 0.64v

When I get home from the store I'll check the starter it's self. Continuity/resistance (can't remember which right this second)
At the stator and R/R
 

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Battery shows 12.4v when I go to start it's drops around 6.2v

Starter solenoid checked to where it's good enough to click (reason I didn't suspect it was bad) buy on start it drops down to 0.64v
Please be a little more precise. You mention trying to start twice, with very different voltage drops. Do I take that to mean that the battery is at 12.4V with the ignition off, drops to 6.2V when you turn the key to ON then to near 0V when you hit the starter button?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
With either battery it's at 12.4 V
With key ON it's still 12.4v.

Doesn't drop unless I try to start it.
That's when the battery drops to 6.x volts.

Starter solenoid was near 0v, so I did replace it and Sams thing. Same problem
 

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The fact that the voltage drops that low, when trying to start, means one of two things, as far as I can tell: Either it's drawing a great current, but there something wrong with the starter that won't let it turn, or both the batteries are indeed bad for some reason.
 

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+1 on your needing to be more precise on exactly what you're doing and the results.

Where are you measuring the voltage? Is it on the battery terminals? 6+ V is way too low. It should be somewhere around 10-11 V when cranking. I wonder if there's a bad electrical connection somewhere. Measure directly on the battery terminals, not the cables. You might also try between the battery negative terminal and the output of the solenoid. Also try between the starter motor positive terminal and the crankcase where the negative terminal attaches. Check for a voltage drop between the terminals and their associated cables when cranking (should be essentially zero).

A shorted starter motor is possible but unlikely unless you've previously been cranking the bejesus out of it.

"Starter will whirl right now (not engaging)" sounds like you had the starter motor off the bike at some point and were connecting directly to the battery. Did that happen? Or was it on the bike spinning but the starter clutch wasn't engaging?

P.S. I could be off base but this thread, your previous thread about an oil leak, and your being in the midst of trying to sell it, suggest that the bike has not been maintained at a high level.
 

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The engine isn't locked up, is it? Have you verified that the dude wasn't being a dumbass and somehow destroyed the engine, and now it's locked up?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wasn't locked up from what I was able to tell. I was able to turn the crank freely.

No worries anymore. Sold it and took a loss. I was done with that headache
 
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