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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was just out at my bike to try and replace my CCT, but realized I don't have a hex key tight enough to get in there.

So now I have a couple questions about replacement.
1. Can you remove the CCT without removing the valve cover and zip tying the cam chain to the sprockets? Or does that absolutely need to be done?
Is it as easy as just loosening the two bolts, sliding out and putting the new one in with a new gasket?

2. Anyone have a tool suggestion that will work, I was about to go buy a stubby hex wrench to hopefully get into that tight space. The frame really blocks a lot of access to the CCT. And if anyone happens to know the hex size I need off the top of their head let me know too because I'm about to go look it up.

This is my first time doing this so thanks for the help (y)
 

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When you release the cam chain tensioner, CCT, The loaded valve springs move the cam to a resting spot, this can jump a tooth on the cam sprocket. Considering the damage that could happen, I would not shortcut this procedure.
Is there a problem removing valve cover on LO 750 ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good to know, saw a few people mention to do it, but also read about some that don't. Just wanted to make sure how big of a deal it was. Easy enough to get the cover off anyway now that everything is clear of that area.
 

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Gasket is reusable a few times, grease it up and it will slip into place. Bolt washers could have some Hi temp sealant if the rubber feels hardened. Allen key can be cut down with grinder.
Why the CCT change ? 100k.
Good how to here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great thanks. 43k right now, just had valve clearances checked, been really chattery on cold start, thinking it's the cct.
 
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Youre the guy from NJ right?
I cut down an Allen key to remove the tensioner.
Fit the new one fully compressed, remove the access bung on the side of the head and release the tension and you're done.
Cant see how it's gonna jump a tooth unless you're cranking it with no tensioner fitted as there's a tensioner across the top of both cam pulleys.
 

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Youre the guy from NJ right?
I cut down an Allen key to remove the tensioner.
Fit the new one fully compressed, remove the access bung on the side of the head and release the tension and you're done.
Cant see how it's gonna jump a tooth unless you're cranking it with no tensioner fitted as there's a tensioner across the top of both cam pulleys.
That's a guide across the top, not a tensioner.
You can cut corners and be lucky sometimes...or you can cover your ass and zip tie the cam chain to the sprockets, to prevent any grief.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Hey guys, so I got the new one in and it stayed compressed while I installed, took me a moment to realize why it wasn't going in at first because it was in the full extended position, then I had it come apart completely, used the old one to make sure I put everything in correctly again and now I know how the tensioner works completely:ROFLMAO:. Opened the little port and released the tensioner, should be good to go.

@Roy750
How'd you know I was from NJ? lol yeah that's me
 
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Take the crank pulley access bung off n turn the engine over a couple of times with a wrench just to make sure you're definitely good to crank it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I recognise your name from Woolich!
Yeah that's me! Funny. Also yeah everything worked great, thanks for the help. She started right up after I double checked everything. Soon as the tensioner filled with oil the chatter went away real quick, as before it stayed for a good 5 seconds before it quieted down on cold start. Seems like it was the tensioner. (y) (y) (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Test ride today to make sure everything is sorted, flashed a new tune to disable the pair valve since I fully deleted it this time. Will report back
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bike sounds really good now. Felt good to rip around
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Brilliant. I'm gonna keep an ear out for this as mines on 30-something k.
Great job 👍
For me, it happened so slowly and subtly that for a while I was questioning myself if it was always like that. Then it became obvious 🤣 I'm sure there's a method of just checking chain slack maybe? Not sure.
 
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From what I have seen and learnt on here, I think If the tensioner is ratcheted out, all the way, or most of the way, when you inspect, it after removal, then the cam chain is stretched.
So, a new cam chain, new guides and new tensioner is needed.
 

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From what I have seen and learnt on here, I think If the tensioner is ratcheted out, all the way, or most of the way, when you inspect, it after removal, then the cam chain is stretched.
So, a new cam chain, new guides and new tensioner is needed.
The fact he couldn't get the tensioner in when it wasn't compressed is a good sign.
The thing is with this type of tensioner is that it's self adjusting. When you remove it, it self adjusts all the way out and needs to be reset.
 

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Thanks, I see this on the parts Fisch for L1. For my K7 there is an actual ratchet and pawl which holds tensioner in place. So in the case of L1, the chain will go slack, with no oil pressure ?
 

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Thanks, I see this on the parts Fisch for L1. For my K7 there is an actual ratchet and pawl which holds tensioner in place. So in the case of L1, the chain will go slack, with no oil pressure ?
No it keeps pressure, I think there's a valve inside it that maintains the pressure. Can't remember if there's a spring inside it as well.
 
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