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Discussion Starter #1
I don't understand the "engine mounting thrust adjust" loosening reason? I have two one upper rear and one lower rear? I have removed the 14mm nut in both cases and the bolts holding the engine could be removed? Can anyone explain the reason for loosening the thrust adjuster? I will have to fashion a tool in order to remove the collar in both cases? Thanks for any input, cheers Mark.
 

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The thrust adjuster is torqued when installed so as to seat against the crankcase via tension on the frame. The adjuster nut locks things in place and it gets torqued too. You probably can wiggle the engine out but it ought to be difficult to reinstall it without loosening the thrust adjuster, which requires loosening the adjuster nut (not the lock nut on the mounting bolt).

I also balked at the Suzuki price and made my own from a 20 mm deep impact socket (Genius 417820) using a drill press, carbide burrs, and an X-Y table. It wasn't that hard so I also made one for the steering stem nut and it was a PITA because it has six lugs instead of four (would be far easier with a mill and an indexing head). As I recall, a guy in Florida was making the thrust adjuster sockets and selling them on ebay for around $20. The quality didn't look that great but it doesn't need to be. I've always thought that somebody in China could clean up selling such items.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Perhaps a dumb question? In order to loosen the lock nut is it right or left hand thread? It might seem obvious but, rather than struggle I thought I should ask! Cheers and thanks for getting back to me. Mark
 

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Right hand AFAIR. Sounds like you're getting ready to use a hammer and a drift.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I could on the lower one but the top one is recessed in the frame so I will have to mock up a tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I bought a 15/16 deep socket and will start creating today! Just a note, when removing the 14mm nuts I used air impact. I won't with the collar but just how much torque are they on with? I tried to remove the 14mm nuts with a socket and breaker bar to no avail!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK I'm not the best machinist, especially with a hand held Dremel! But it worked! Yeh! So my next question is will the thrust adjusters just fall out after I remove the engine mounting bolts? Or is the thruster threaded through the frame? I'm asking now because I'm not quite ready to drop the engine till I have a friend weld my up a bracket for my engine stand. Thanks again! Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey, guess what! I did the unthinkable! Using my 17 mm socket I realized I could loosen the thrust adjuster easily by turning it out from the frame. Obviously creating space between the engine case and the frame. Seems pretty obvious now but having never done this I'm learning as I go. I still have to get the engine stand adapter built by a friend but I think I can lower the enging to the table my bike is sitting on? I will update!
Cheers, Mark
 

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The torques are all listed in the service manual and you shouldn't be working on the bike without it. See 3-12.

Suggest that you take a look at the first page or two of this. He knows what he's doing - though I wish he'd cleaned the engine much more thoroughly before digging into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great information! They are working on their problem as they see fit? I'm doing the same, sort of? I'm not sure exactly what my bike is indicating to me as an oil burning problem. It could be either, valve guide seals, or valve guides themselves. Or it could be the oil wiper ring on the pistons. The compression numbers suggest compression isn't the problem? Shifting isn't a problem, and my last spirited ride didn't indicate other problems, other than the blue smoke while riding slow through small towns with lower speed zones? I started with Motul 7100 10/40 which may have been contributing to the problem but I changed to a 20/50 synthetic weight with no improvement? I have never opened a motor beyond valve check so this is all new to me. I'm not sure how much I'm prepared to spend in order to repair this motor or just throw it away and going in another direction?
 

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If it was ring related, I'd expect blowby and oil in the breather filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have so much to learn! With a friends help I got the engine out, but I've screwed up a couple of electrical connectors which I didn't see being attached! That will be another project as I go along. I can also now see I should have done as much power washing before even starting this! Until I have the engine attached to the engine stand it will just be lying on my bench.
 

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If power washing means high pressure jets, don't as it can work into places where water shouldn't be. Something like SuperClean, brushes, and a hose is plenty.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm thinking brake clean? I don't have a wash tank either so maybe some diesel with a wire brush? Just waiting for my plate adapter to my engine stand which should be ready soon? Once it's on the stand I will start to clean and wash as best I can. Not with high pressure! I'm finding it hard not to get ahead of myself? I didn't sleep well last night thinking about things I really don't have answers for? First things first, one step at a time!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Engine is out. Head is off. Now to assess cylinder condition and valve guides or seals for condition? I am so unsure of myself? But I'm trying to keep things in order as they come apart? I was very careful about keeping track of the cams as they were when being removed. Now I can see no. 2 and 3 cylinders for their condition but No. 1 and 4 are sitting near top dead center so will have to rotate the crank to see there walls? I have a friend who is much more experienced than me so if I can I will ask his opinion? We'll see? Cheers for now Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Removed the valves today! Whoa! Both intake and exhaust have carbon deposits some more than others? But two of the exhaust valves are really very encrusted? Not sure how to go about cleaning, whether I can use my wire wheel or if there is a product for such?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Another question? If I want can I remove the cylinders without having to split the case? Given that I've gone this far, I'm wondering about removing the cylinders if that is required? I've checked the cylinder bore with the pistons in place but obviously I can't get to the very bottom of the cylinder bore as well as checking or replacing rings? Just a question at this time? Cheers Mark
 

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Gunk used to make a product called Hydro-Seal that was fantastic for removing deposits like carbon. You'd just let the part sit in it overnight and it would be spotless the next day. But they discontinued it, quite probably under pressure from the EPA (maybe that's why I grew a second nose). There are other cleaners, including some from Gunk. But they aren't nearly as good.

Others here will know better but I think that you have to remove the lower crankcase to get to the crankshaft journal bolts, which hold the middle and upper crankcase together.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank-you for your input! Looking at the motor with the head removed it looks like the cylinders could be remove without splitting the case? I may be hoping only because I am so far in over my head I can't believe I will see my way back? Bottom line, I can't live with the motor spewing smoke so even if I can't rebuild it I'll throw it away? Or sell it to someone who has more experience and tools that I have?
 
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Griff67
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