[MBGixxer750]

I was out for a ride today, doing about 70, and the bike cut out completely. My display went blank and the bike rolled. I tried to let out the clutch to roll start the engine, but it wouldn't turn over. I then jump-started the battery and the bike started, got about 10 min down the road and the bike cut off again.

By now I'm thinking it's my battery so I replace the battery, the bike starts, but then I get 10 min down the road and it cuts off completely again. The new battery that I just put in was now completely drained. So I just trailered it the rest of the way home.

The bike was also just sitting in idle, I gave a few revs after the initial battery jump and it cut off and died again.

My fI light is on, but I put it into dealer mode and it is showing COO, (No Issues), I have a 2 brothers exhaust that is causing the exhaust valve to behave differently, this is what I believe the FI light is on for, not my issue of the engine cutting off.

Any ideas as to what I should check first?

 

[craigfer63]

Drained battery sounds like your charging circuit. Service manual will walk you through testing Generator and Regulator / Rectifier. Clean connectors with Electronic Clean / Lube as you disconnect / reconnect them.
Google this problem will lead you to more threads on this.
Don't forget to follow up your post with your progresss.
RR was upgraded around this time. 2006 Suzuki GSX-R750 Electrical | Ron Ayers

 

[MBGixxer750]

Drained battery sounds like your charging circuit. Service manual will walk you through testing Generator and Regulator / rectifier. Clean connectors with Electronic Clean / Lube as you disconnect / reconnect them.
Google this problem will lead you to more threads on this.
Don't forget to follow up your post with your progresss.
RR was upgraded around this time. 2006 Suzuki GSX-R750 Electrical | Ron Ayers

Okay, thank you.

 

[MBGixxer750]

I have tested the stator and all is good, but I had to take apart the bike to get to the connections. Is there a way for me to test the rectifier/regulator without the bike being on @5000rpm?

 

[MBGixxer750]

I have tested the stator and all is good, but I had to take apart the bike to get to the connections. Is there a way for me to test the rectifier/regulator without the bike being on @5000rpm?

Because I would have to put it completely back together again to do that test.

 

[craigfer63]

Not sure how you tested the, No load Performance of the Generator (Stator) 65v @ 5000 r/min.
Or the Charging Voltage 14 - 15.5 v @ 5000 r/min.
Did the Generator resistance, on the yellow wires measure 0.2 - 1.0 ohms ?
The regulator / Rectifier is tested with Ignition Key Off.
AS it says in my K7 workshop manual, page 9-8 Charging system, start with Battery Current Leak.
At least you know where everything is now.

SUZUKI GSX-R750 SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Suzuki GSX-R750 service manual online. GSX-R750 motorcycle pdf manual download. Also for: Gsx-r600 2006, Gsx-r600 2007, 2007 gsxr 600, 2006 gsxr 600.

www.manualslib.com

Page 425 here.
The manual does not directly explain your problem, I have read many posts on here about the problem your describing. This is where I would Start.
Your Battery IS at 12.7 v ? Check that battery voltage does not drop bellow 10 v when you press starter.

 

[MBGixxer750]

Not sure how you tested the, No load Performance of the Generator (Stator) 65v @ 5000 r/min.
Or the Charging Voltage 14 - 15.5 v @ 5000 r/min.
Did the Generator resistance, on the yellow wires measure 0.2 - 1.0 ohms ?
The regulator / Rectifier is tested with Ignition Key Off.
AS it says in my K7 workshop manual, page 9-8 Charging system, start with Battery Current Leak.
At least you know where everything is now.

SUZUKI GSX-R750 SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Suzuki GSX-R750 service manual online. GSX-R750 motorcycle pdf manual download. Also for: Gsx-r600 2006, Gsx-r600 2007, 2007 gsxr 600, 2006 gsxr 600.

www.manualslib.com

Page 425 here.
The manual does not directly explain your problem, I have read many posts on here about the problem your describing. This is where I would Start.
Your Battery IS at 12.7 v ? Check that battery voltage does not drop bellow 10 v when you press starter.

Okay, I will try these tests.

I tested my stator with the resistance test. All combinations of wires were .8 ohms.

I completed the rectifier test and the test for B/W1 with positive leads from the chart in the service manual all failed, So I ordered a new R/R.

 

[MBGixxer750]

I'm also installing a new license plate light, last owner took off the stock mounting gear. There is only one unplugged connection in the rear of the bike, it has two wires but they are brown and blue. I touched the wires together with the battery on, but I didn't get any response from the light. I've attached a picture of the plug below. Can anyone confirm that this is the license plate light?

 

[craigfer63]

If you touch live wires together you will blow fuses or damage fragile circuits. Don't do it, use your circuit tester.
Study the wire diagram and you will be able to ID all the wires on your bike.
Blue and brown wires are license plate light, there should be 12v from brown to earth and between these two with lights on.

 

[Gsxr_Kng]

Charge your battery until it shows over 12v, then start your bike and see if the voltage holds even at 12v, or if it bump a up to like 13/14v.

If it doesn’t jump up, then it is almost a guarantee to be your r/r or stator. The r/r’s on our model bikes were stuffed right behind the hot radiator, so they burn out all the time. There are two common ways to relocate, either by a plate you can buy on Amazon, or you can route it up and mount it in your air box to keep it cool.

Is your r/r still in the stock location?

*I missed that you already diagnosed that the r/r was bad, but still… relocate it.