Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
166 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know this topic has been covered before but I just wanted to let you guys know what I did and if there is anything else I can check before I order a new dash.
First of all, I decided to take my bike to work the other morning and once I turned the ignition on and lo and behold no tacho and no LCD display.
The warning lights on the side of the display are all fine (H beam,neutral turn signals,etc etc.)

I have attached a pic of my display at idle.

I have checked the cable on the back of the cluster and it was fully seated with zero corrosion.

Battery voltage was 12.6 and 13.7 running

Since the tacho was not working I decide to probe the Y/Bl on the connector to see if it was sending a signal to the tacho. I was getting about 5.7 vdc at the connector with the bike idling it did increase slightly as I revved the bike and I only had my dmm set at the 20 vdc range.
Based on the fact that I was getting a signal from the ecm for the tacho to work but the tacho was not working my dash is kaput and I need to find another one.
Am I wrong for assuming this based on my findings,please correct me if I am wrong.

If there is anything else I should check please let me know
 

Attachments

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
7,966 Posts
The Y/Bl is an AC signal, I forget but possibly a square wave from 0 to ?10? If your meter will measure frequency, you can check it.

R/Bl should always be at battery voltage while O/G and Gr are switched by the ignition switch. Have you checked your SIGNAL fuse? B/R is 12 V output from the cluster to the speed sensor.

I assume that the LCD display is backlit. Is it on?

The front harness connects to the main harness at two connectors by the right triple clamp. The contacts are well know for going bad. If you see some jumpers from one side to the other (not with both ends on one side), a hack has been at work. Do your headlights and turn signals work OK?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
166 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The Y/Bl is an AC signal, I forget but possibly a square wave from 0 to ?10? If your meter will measure frequency, you can check it.

R/Bl should always be at battery voltage while O/G and Gr are switched by the ignition switch. Have you checked your SIGNAL fuse? B/R is 12 V output from the cluster to the speed sensor.

I assume that the LCD display is backlit. Is it on?

The front harness connects to the main harness at two connectors by the right triple clamp. The contacts are well know for going bad. If you see some jumpers from one side to the other (not with both ends on one side), a hack has been at work. Do your headlights and turn signals work OK?
Thanks for the input Bill
My meter doesn't measure frequency. By signal fuse do you mean the turn signal fuse if so yes I checked and it is okay.
The B/R 12 V output you mention should I be checking that at the speed sensor or the cluster ?
The back light on the display still works and so do the headlights and turn signals in fact everything else on the bike works fine.
I will take the the side off later today and check those connectors and other wires you mentioned and post my results.
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
7,966 Posts
The SIGNAL fuse supplies the O/G. It's OK if your horn works.

It will be hard to check the B/R at the cluster as that power is coming through the cluster from one of the three lines that power the cluster. It's easier to check it at the sensor.

In later years there are only two power lines to the cluster. The R/Bl maintains the presets while the O/G turns the cluster on & off. I'm unaware of what the third Gr line is about but see that it also powers the taillight. So it might power the LCD backlight.

A failed B/W ground at the triple clamp connector is fairly common. But its failure will generally screw up everything in the front end. So yours seems to be OK.

Have you opened up the cluster case and looked for corrosion on the circuit board?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
166 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The SIGNAL fuse supplies the O/G. It's OK if your horn works.

It will be hard to check the B/R at the cluster as that power is coming through the cluster from one of the three lines that power the cluster. It's easier to check it at the sensor.

In later years there are only two power lines to the cluster. The R/Bl maintains the presets while the O/G turns the cluster on & off. I'm unaware of what the third Gr line is about but see that it also powers the taillight. So it might power the LCD backlight.

A failed B/W ground at the triple clamp connector is fairly common. But its failure will generally screw up everything in the front end. So yours seems to be OK.

Have you opened up the cluster case and looked for corrosion on the circuit board?
So I checked everything that you recommended and here are the results
R/BL was at 12.3
O/G was at 11.5
GR was at 11.5
B/R was at 11.5 which I managed to check at A connector located under the gas tank, fairly easy to get at.
(see pic).

Everything was checked with the ignition on but not running.

I also checked the connectors that you mentioned and the main white one was absolutely spotless almost looked brand new. The black one though had some minor corrosion in it so I cleaned it up an applied some dielectric to it.There were no jumpers anywhere.

I haven't yet opened the cluster case to look for corrosion but this was what actually crossed my mind as a next step.But then again if it came to this point I think I would rather replace it

So based on my findings do you agree that the cluster is shot ?.
 

Attachments

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
7,966 Posts
The cluster case is sold separately so it's not a complicated matter to open it up.

I hope it's clear that the connectors that I was talking about are up by the right triple clamp.

I'm cheap enough that I'd look more closely at the cluster before writing it off. There are issues with the mileage stored in it too. You might consider contacting Blue Gauges to see if he could check and/or fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
I had the exact same problem as you I also have a k1 gsxr 1000 my problem was the plugs on the harness corroded inside 3 plugs behind the front indicator throttle side big yellow plug and I think the other 2 are black cleaned them all up works perfect now mine is a uk bike tho so dont know if there are any differences. Hope this helps
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top