It is one of the harness plugs corroded take off the side fairing (exhaust side) and just below the ram air intake there are 3 plugs unplug them clean them all with either electrical cleaner or wd40 until all the corrosion is gone then plug them all back in and should be fine I had the same issue on mine and worked for me 👍
2001k1 suzuki GSXR1000 Dash totay turned off and bike died but would jump start
Gidday Guys
I own a 2001k1 suzuki GSXR1000.
Yesturday I was riding to the Southside of Brisbane and all of a sudden with no warning at all the Dash TOTALLY died. Litterly nothing. No speedo, no back light not even an FI light no blinkers or horn or headlight. Was exactly like turning the bike off.
Now it ran for about a minute then Game over.
Half way up the gateway bridge.
Managed to push it to the top and rolled down the other side and roll started It. I got maybe 2 or 3k's down the road and the dash went off again. So i pulled over and got my jump pack out and jumped it.
It started and ran for about 30 seconds.
So I bit the bullet called RACQ who got me an emergency tow to safety which just for refferance is a free service wether your with RACQ or not. It is a government payed service that will only tow you to safety but will not how you home or anywhere else. Then RACQ arranged a tow truck to tow me home.
Brand new battery
Previously tested stator and tested ok
Previously tested rectumfryer and it was in spec but at the low end of ok.
All fuses are fine.
Fuel pump is good (Wouldn't be that as if it would stop because of lack of fuel the dash would not turn off.
Also never had any issues like this ever before. Had a starting issue that was the starter motor.
When the rectumfryer tested low I ordered a new one that arrived 10 min ago. I will retest rectumfryer and stator.
Any ideas or help is appreciated.
Any suggestions on what else I should test let me know.
Cheers in advance.
I own a 2001k1 suzuki GSXR1000.
Yesturday I was riding to the Southside of Brisbane and all of a sudden with no warning at all the Dash TOTALLY died. Litterly nothing. No speedo, no back light not even an FI light no blinkers or horn or headlight. Was exactly like turning the bike off.
Now it ran for about a minute then Game over.
Half way up the gateway bridge.
Managed to push it to the top and rolled down the other side and roll started It. I got maybe 2 or 3k's down the road and the dash went off again. So i pulled over and got my jump pack out and jumped it.
It started and ran for about 30 seconds.
So I bit the bullet called RACQ who got me an emergency tow to safety which just for refferance is a free service wether your with RACQ or not. It is a government payed service that will only tow you to safety but will not how you home or anywhere else. Then RACQ arranged a tow truck to tow me home.
Brand new battery
Previously tested stator and tested ok
Previously tested rectumfryer and it was in spec but at the low end of ok.
All fuses are fine.
Fuel pump is good (Wouldn't be that as if it would stop because of lack of fuel the dash would not turn off.
Also never had any issues like this ever before. Had a starting issue that was the starter motor.
When the rectumfryer tested low I ordered a new one that arrived 10 min ago. I will retest rectumfryer and stator.
Any ideas or help is appreciated.
Any suggestions on what else I should test let me know.
Cheers in advance.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Gidday Gixxerdevil2019
I will do that and see how I go. I will let you know.
I will do that and see how I go. I will let you know.
I had the same issue today. Replaced the battery, stator and rectifier last week and has been running good. Today my dash went blank and the bike hesitated a bit then died . Wouldn't start back up so I jumped it. it ran for a second then dash and all the lights quit and it died again. Plz help
I will keep this post updated till I sort it out.
So far I have found this. 2 bubbles in the rectifier and a melted plug for the rectifier. I will replace the plug with a waterproof one and go from there. I still want to test and check the stator so if there is an issue there i will post it up also.
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Hay mate.I had the same issue today. Replaced the battery, stator and rectifier last week and has been running good. Today my dash went blank and the bike hesitated a bit then died . Wouldn't start back up so I jumped it. it ran for a second then dash and all the lights quit and it died again. Plz help
Check the updates.
Check updates.It is one of the harness plugs corroded take off the side fairing (exhaust side) and just below the ram air intake there are 3 plugs unplug them clean them all with either electrical cleaner or wd40 until all the corrosion is gone then plug them all back in and should be fine I had the same issue on mine and worked for me 👍
Also checked the wiring you were talking about and was all fine.
The unsealed connectors near the right triple are a K1/K2 design flaw that leads to dead clusters and lighting. People rig up jumpers around failed contacts, see the pics here, but it's a cludge that rarely provides a permanent solution. Suzuki didn't properly fix things until K9. Identify the failing contacts and replace them, using some dielectric grease to keep corrosion away.
Contacts in the connector to the stator and/or R/R can similarly fail. But there the amperage through a failing contact commonly leads to it getting hot, hot enough to melt the connector body. At that point the entire connector needs to be replaced. Easter Beaver has some sealed connectors.
The location of the R/R is another flaw as cooling air flow isn't very good there. I haven't seen it recently but there are posts here about relocating it.
Contacts in the connector to the stator and/or R/R can similarly fail. But there the amperage through a failing contact commonly leads to it getting hot, hot enough to melt the connector body. At that point the entire connector needs to be replaced. Easter Beaver has some sealed connectors.
The location of the R/R is another flaw as cooling air flow isn't very good there. I haven't seen it recently but there are posts here about relocating it.
Gidday BillVThe unsealed connectors near the right triple are a K1/K2 design flaw that leads to dead clusters and lighting. People rig up jumpers around failed contacts, see the pics here, but it's a cludge that rarely provides a permanent solution. Suzuki didn't properly fix things until K9. Identify the failing contacts and replace them, using some dielectric grease to keep corrosion away.
Contacts in the connector to the stator and/or R/R can similarly fail. But there the amperage through a failing contact commonly leads to it getting hot, hot enough to melt the connector body. At that point the entire connector needs to be replaced. Easter Beaver has some sealed connectors.
The location of the R/R is another flaw as cooling air flow isn't very good there. I haven't seen it recently but there are posts here about relocating it.
I have gone through and probed either side of all the connectors in the front of the harness and found no faults.
Checked both resistance and continuity (yes I know that one of these tests will make the other invalid) the resistance was lower then my meters values went and all had continuity.
Also tested from connectors to wiring at the dash, blinkers ect and found zero faults.
The only issues I found that was definitive was the melted plug at the R/R.
Tested the R/r pins 1 and 2 were just within spec but pin 3 was just out of spec.
The stator was also just within spec but due to discolored coils I'm guessing its on its last legs.
I will put it all back together tomorrow and do a dynamic test on stator and check voltage on all 3 phases and check the charge voltage at the battery to see what overall condition of the charge system is after I repair the R/R Plug.
I will update this post every time I get new information..
Thanks for the comment. All input is extremely grateful.
I forget to comment on your stator. I see the discoloration but I've seen much worse. What is there may be due to the R/R or its connector. I could easily be wrong but I'd expect it to be OK as long as it passes the resistance tests, including to ground.
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