Or is it the rad that needs to warm up?
2001 GSXR problems
Hey guys im new here but i am testing the waters to see if i can learn something on my bike. Ever since i changed my spark plugs and oil my bike has started to run into problems. I have a 2001 GSXR 600.
My bike bogged when i would crack it open so i knew i had to look into it. It also wouldnt start the first time it almost seemed like it would need to prime a few times and be shaken before it would start.
First thing that happened that i found was my rectifier fried the quick connect to the stator. I fixed this issue.
Once that was fixed it still had the issue.
I then changed my fuel pump and filter as i thought that could be it as well where the fuel wasnt getting the proper fuel, it still did it so i changed my fuel line as i noticed the fuel line was kinked as i also smelled a gas odor. I also did my air filter.
That was fixed and it now runs better but i replaced the hose from 1/4 to 5/16 and i do notice it fixed the problem but it could be better as i feel the size up made a difference in power.
The main problem now is the bike wont start the same like it did before the oil change and all this stuff changed. I have to shake the bike and prime it a few times no certain number of sequences but it does eventually start. If it is point A to point B it starts no problem its when it sits over night or at work for 8 hours.
My clutch and break are adjustable and i noticed when my clutch is the closest of the 6 settings it has a problem finding a gear almost as there isnt tention on it unless it is the furthest away from the grips. Would this effect my starting of the bike as i do need to pull the clutch in to start it. If my clutch is loose and only works best with it the furthest away it would make sense, or is it the starter…..
please help!
My bike bogged when i would crack it open so i knew i had to look into it. It also wouldnt start the first time it almost seemed like it would need to prime a few times and be shaken before it would start.
First thing that happened that i found was my rectifier fried the quick connect to the stator. I fixed this issue.
Once that was fixed it still had the issue.
I then changed my fuel pump and filter as i thought that could be it as well where the fuel wasnt getting the proper fuel, it still did it so i changed my fuel line as i noticed the fuel line was kinked as i also smelled a gas odor. I also did my air filter.
That was fixed and it now runs better but i replaced the hose from 1/4 to 5/16 and i do notice it fixed the problem but it could be better as i feel the size up made a difference in power.
The main problem now is the bike wont start the same like it did before the oil change and all this stuff changed. I have to shake the bike and prime it a few times no certain number of sequences but it does eventually start. If it is point A to point B it starts no problem its when it sits over night or at work for 8 hours.
My clutch and break are adjustable and i noticed when my clutch is the closest of the 6 settings it has a problem finding a gear almost as there isnt tention on it unless it is the furthest away from the grips. Would this effect my starting of the bike as i do need to pull the clutch in to start it. If my clutch is loose and only works best with it the furthest away it would make sense, or is it the starter…..
please help!
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Did you gap your plugs? Usually if everything is fine and then you change something and it breaks, its usually one of the things you changed / touched in the process. Also is the new fuel pump OEM or aftermarket, and is it used or new?
And you would want to set your clutch to the correct tension, there should be a very small amount of play, typically about the width of a dime between the lever and lever housing (confirm in your owners manual), you would want to use the other adjuster closer to the clutch itself if you have maxed out the settings on your top adjuster. That possible could fix both issues as I'm not entirely sure where the switch for clutch engagement is located that allows the bike to start, regardless your clutch should be tensioned correctly.
And you would want to set your clutch to the correct tension, there should be a very small amount of play, typically about the width of a dime between the lever and lever housing (confirm in your owners manual), you would want to use the other adjuster closer to the clutch itself if you have maxed out the settings on your top adjuster. That possible could fix both issues as I'm not entirely sure where the switch for clutch engagement is located that allows the bike to start, regardless your clutch should be tensioned correctly.
Yeah i changed the fuel line to a 5/16 from a 1/4 and it was almost like there was air in the hose at higher rpm so i changed it to a 1/4 rubber hose and it got worse so im thinking i need a OEM fuel line so the ratio of fuel and air are proper.
The starting issue was the clutch being loose.
The starting issue was the clutch being loose.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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