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Discussion Starter #1
I want to go down at least one tooth up front..What's the most I can go with the stock chain? What are the number of teeth on the sprocket that I should order? Will -1 be a big difference?

Stock gearing is miserable...Any help would be great..I want to get it set up for the track, but at this point I want to not have to break and replace the stock chain..

Any help would be great..Thanks.
 

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If you have an '01 with a stock chain you seriously need to think about getting a new one (chain)...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Why's that? My 01 has 4k miles on it? I just got it a month ago...and the guy never rode it that I bought it from..

So is a 16 tooth front -1?

-1, +2 is possible with a stock chain??

How will this effect my speedo? If it's thrown off, how can I fix it?
 

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It doesn't matter... the bike/chains still 4 years old. To be safe I would check the stretch limit on the chain. (21pins < 12.5 inches)
 

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I had a 600 with -2 in front, the best I could tell it was off like 10mph for every 50 mph it registered, if it said 100 you were going 80, said 150 going 120. The only thing I hated was that it really adds miles to the bike. If you want to keep the miles down, buy another speed ometer off ebay.
 

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I had my 02 for only a year + 1 year the previous owner had and the chain was s...t...r...e....a...c....h....e...d... It was setup with a -1 in the front @ 16 total. I just went with the 520 conversion and decided to go -1 & +3 (16/45). WOW DOGGY! I really didn't mind loosing the top end... especially at my altitude because how often are you doing 160 and how often are you doing 120.... exactly!

Just one man's opinion... it is basically up to personal preference...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm thinking of going -1(16 tooth) up front and +1 rear....Can I do that with the stock size chain? I found a replacement cheap...Is 525 stock?
 

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Dude, if your chain is 1 year old or 5 years old and has only 4000 miles on it DO NOT replace it. It won't stretch just sitting there. Use is what causes stretch. The metal doesn't "stretch". The little hole on each link that the rivet is in wears a .0001 of a mm, but add that up over 110 links and you get a decent amount of added length.

A good rule of thumb is, for every 2 teeth you add to the rear you need to add a link set.

With the rear wheel travel amount on a GSXR you can get away with adding +2 at most with your stock chain (thats if you leave the front as is) +2 rear is a nice set up for the street. Won't rev to the moon but you hit the power band much better.

For the track, a good all around set up is -1/+2 as someone else mentioned. And you should be able to run this with stock chain length no problems at all.

Anytime you drop teeth up front, its a bit smoother on the drive system if you go up in the rear. Keeps the chain from riding on top of the swingarm at the pivot area. -2 up front you would for sure have this problem. If you want the affects of a -2f, do -1f/+3r. Three up in the rear is very close mathmatically to -1 up front.

Keep your chain adjusted proper and lubed good and you can ride like a crazy stunting/racing fool and should get 15,000 out of the stocker.
 

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Oh yea 525 is stock, but if you replace the entire system 520 is the way to go. Many higher end aftermarket chains sized down at a 520 have a higher tensile strength than cheaper (like oem) 525 chains. So you won't be worrying about it breaking.

Ive run 520's on GSXR1k's and no problems on 145hp bikes.

I run 520's on both my 750's.
+2r on street
-1/+2; -1/+1; -1/+3 combinations on track
 
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