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i have a 2000 srad 600 i cant seem to get running right. There is a hesitation at around 4k rpms that takes a few seconds to get through under acceleration. I have cleaned the carbs, set air mixture screws 3 turns out, and synced the carbs. all jets and needles are stock sizes. it does have a k&n air filter and yoshimura exhaust.

main jets are 130 and132.5
pilot jets are all 12.5

I am still fairly new to carburetors and i am enjoying the learning process but it is starting to be a headache and any help would much appreciated.
 

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Air mixture 2.5, have you checked for vacuum leaks. When you had the airbox off did you check the pipe on the rhs of the box 13881-34E50 . And the pipes at the front & "t" junction ( good fit\tight ).
Both jet sizes are correct.
 

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The pipe on the rhs looks like it has been completely covered in rtv or black silicone maybe to cover a hole or crack. Vacuum lines all seem good. The 2 vent t's are definitely worn and looks like someone has added a secion of small tubing to fit inside the t's instead of around. Maybe this isnot allowing much air to get through. Should i look into a jet kit since there is an aftermarket air filter and exhaust?
 

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Jet kit not at the moment ( dont spend on hope to fix could cost mega $). Sounds like someone has been trying to find the leak ( which is causing the air leak\hanging idle ) Link below,particular attention to ccmhunt was a resident srad carb guru at one time.

 

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there is a lot to look at and verify, you have

clip position
float height position
jet sizing


then you have to INSURE all passageways are clear and moving at volume, meaning some aren't semi clogged so forth..

today's gas plays HAVOC on older carbs, when gas evaps it leaves a residue of lacquer, then it layers till it eventually cloggs..

then you have your vacuum assisted slides, are the diaphragms perfect, Orings perfect, everything sealing..

then you have the choke circuit, is each one perfect, sealing and doing its job

these carbs are meticulous, I tried the run and gun rebuild and it wont work unless you do these in your sleep, there is a lot to inspect, soak n blow out, adjust and inspect, then rebuild.. you cannot have stropped cap screws so forth, you can't have floats adjusted improperly, its all critical to optimal performance and why FI is such a blessing...

take em apart again, slowly, then soak in yamalube no less than 3 times, about 2 hours each time, and BLOW OUT with compressed air each passage way insuring nothing is clogged and its flowing WELL.. this is the biggest mistake, folks think they can do a fast soak and not blow out properly and they should be fine, just one semi clogged circuit forget about it, it wont sync right and that's that, stumbles, loss of power, dead spots..

take a full day removing, disassembling and soaking,

then a fresh day assembling following the book meticulously..

are you at elevation? sea level, it all matters

use the factory pro CV carb high RPM seat of the pants tuning schedule to insure you are getting the most before you mod your carbs..

you could have a setting or a jet or a combo of that's giving you a dead spot, these carbs are designed to run optional at normal operating temperature..

soak, the book, check and double check triple check all settings and that the carbs are sealed and tight, insure you are getting proper gas feed as well..

then how is your compression? are your valves properly adjusted?

check year of carb against the carbs yo are using, match numbers, each year uses different settings and jets..

lets see a pic of the carb rail together maybe we can help sort year and settings and jetting but you must first INSURE they are clean and clear, tight and sealed..
 
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