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Hi all, I have just been given a 97 (24k miles) P reg Srad carb model for nothing ?The owner was going to scrap the bike as he could not get it to run. I have receipts for work done in the last year which includes carb clean. Spark at plugs...... anyway during the virus that we all are seeing the bike is stripped of origanal plastics and is waiting for when I can start work on her. My question is what are the bad things to look for on this model, my last was a 86 slingshot.
Any help or info is greatly received as I would like to get this back on the road.
 

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Um really depends what condition your starting point is. Pictures and symptom descriptions will help us with giving suggestions.

I'm not sure how much you'll need to dig into it compared to a srad in USA... Here in the states regulations are alot looser when it comes to bikes than across the pond and we tend to see bikes in extremely poor condition.

Would start with downloading the oem suzuki service manual for the 96-99 750 gsx-r srad. The aftermarket manuals are not worth the coin and lack the details you’ll actually need. (I'm noticing I cannot find it on carlsalter.com anymore. If you struggle at finding the pdf let us know, I think there is a direct link for it's download floating around in the srad section forum somewhere)

The main killer of a typical non running srad is the wiring harness as usually multiple owners have dig into it over it’s life time for various reasons. Specifically the oem rectifier on the srad was inferior and when it failed it typically fried the harness at connector points and any points of weakness. Add in age of shielding on the wiring, it’s likely your harness is very brittle.

The best fix on the above is buying a mosfet rectifier.

If the bike was crashed you should ensure the frame is not tucked.
Here is where the magic happens:
26 7/8ths from steering heads knurled rings to sub frame bolts center line!
This measurement was taken directly from my GMD Computracked frame so I know it's on the $$$.
You measurement can deviate about 1/16-1/8th but should be No more than that!
571097
Uniquely to the 750 carbs srad is the coil packs. They are solid, but can break easily when mishandled. It would be good to test/inspect them to ensure spark.

A poor running carb’d srad is usually carb problem related. And that rabbit hole goes deep. ccmhunt (Chris Hunt) is the patron saint of all things carb related among being a savior of countless bikes. If you can put the time into getting ahold of him and get the carbs to him, it’s probably the single best thing you can do for the bike and completely worth it.

But really usually just spending the time to go threw all the wiring is the biggest hurdle on a new owner srads here in the states.
 

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I have the same model. They are notorious for developing an issue with starting and idling when hot. I found my problems were all electrical. Dirt and years of vibrations can cause problems. I went right through the starter and ignition circuits checking every connector and soldering the crimped connections on each pin within each connector. This also cured two other problems I don’t think I would’ve found otherwise, an annoying misfire at very high revs and the speedo needle flapping around like a fish out of water at high speed. It’s a good time to inspect and remedy any potential problems while this virus keeps us lying low and you already have the plastics off. Read my posting titled “The usual SRAD starting when hot & idling issue”.


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