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1996 GSXR750 New Purchase

457 Views 22 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Spduffee
TwistedMister asked me to post some photos of the new-to-me 750. I opened it up yesterday to see it, a '96, has fuel injection. Hmm. It runs and drives, though not great. I see the ECU is a 32900-33E01. The air box is from a carbie, too. Don'g know what the tank tells me, and I don't know what to look gor on thd harness or valve cover. I do know it's a 750 motor (the R...), but I don't see any way to decipher past the 2nd or 3rd digit. In looking at Ebay, just for the ECU, I'm looking at $100 to $250. Plus box, plus, plus, plus. I know my way around carbs, but not FI. Maybe it'd be best to find some carbs?

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pull that carb rack and disassemble all the way to jets and soak in yamahalube carb dip, 5-6 hours easy, then blow out with compressed air, all passage ways, soak again, 3 times do this, make sure jets are soaking as well or replace with new,

if you use the old you will have to polish the orifices.. easy enough if you have twine and some polish, coat the twine with polish, thread thru jet, secure both ends of twine the run the jet back and forth on the string spinning it so the orifice gets good and polished, maybe 2 stages of polish, really helps to keep em clean in the future and insure all residue is gone.

then when assembling pay strict attention to float height in that they are all the same and measured correctly, folks here can help with that, then insure all rings are good, gaskets and diaphragms are 100%, slides operate smoothly and not too loose and all needle clips are the same, follow base settings in service manual for clip settings and float height..

then bench sync the butterfly openings, videos on that on yootube, then sync with gauges while running,

check valve lash, timing marks, chain slack so forth, new plugs, new oil and filters she should run very well..

then go over tank, pump and petcock.. cleaning and replacing anything old or worn, crispy.. if tank is solid rust gunk evaporust will get her down to bare metal. some pump parts can be found still, fresh petcocks or rebuild kits, be sure your hoses are new, fuel line and you use good stock clamps for trouble free operation ..
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only part of it, next you go thru the wiring, celan all connectors and pack with dielectric grease, look for any melting bad connectors, inspect charging system maybe do a direct to battery inline fuse mod and mosfet R/R, Achilles for this bike, happens so much, at eh very least celan and pack with dielectric .. then a well adjusted manual cam chain tensioner should be good to go
the single plugs into the front of the air box then the 2 plug into the top of the carbs, there are Tee's between carbs 1 and 2 and 3 and 4, or should be, check its all tight and good, not cracked up so forth, sealed well, it will run crappy if not when ram air tubes are connected ..
they equalize the pressure in the float bowls, something to do with the ram air, if you remove the ram air tubes them you can remove that hose set up, if you run ram air you need those, haven't really looked at the engineering but if you find a blueprint schematic of the carb I am sure you can work out whats going on..

there was a guy who recently found a solution for the Tee's using a different style, how they work is yet to be see but he just had to shave off the end of the single side and they fit, they were white ai thought? maybe the plumbing area of home dep? that thread shouldn't be too far down the SRAD section maybe 2nd page or so, it was just a week or so ago, he couldn't find any good new ones so he makeshifted em.. looked like a good set up, if its water plumbing then they should take heat for hot water so..
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