1996 GSXR750 New Purchase

444 Views 22 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Spduffee, 4 d ago

Spduffee

Discussion Starter · 13 d ago

4

TwistedMister asked me to post some photos of the new-to-me 750. I opened it up yesterday to see it, a '96, has fuel injection. Hmm. It runs and drives, though not great. I see the ECU is a 32900-33E01. The air box is from a carbie, too. Don'g know what the tank tells me, and I don't know what to look gor on thd harness or valve cover. I do know it's a 750 motor (the R...), but I don't see any way to decipher past the 2nd or 3rd digit. In looking at Ebay, just for the ECU, I'm looking at $100 to $250. Plus box, plus, plus, plus. I know my way around carbs, but not FI. Maybe it'd be best to find some carbs?

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Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #2 · 13 d ago

Here is the cluster.

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Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #3 · 13 d ago

Well this is embarrassing, and a relief at the same time. I mistook the setup for fuel injection, but it's not. Looking at it closer and at the manual, what I thought was a fuel rail and injectors are actually VTV's? This is all very new to me, but I'm glad I was wrong...Sorry gang...

Monolith

· #4 · 13 d ago (Edited)

Congrats 🍻. Gona get er up to snuff?

Btw theres an srad specific section on the forum under motorcycle specific.

Also, these will be handy:

www.gixxer.com

All SRAD colored coded wiring diagrams

If these are okay to be left on the forum, please sticky and lock this post/thread. If they're not okay, please delete the thread. (colored diagrams were scanned out of the Haynes Manual)

www.gixxer.com

Free Suzuki GSXR 750 96 99 workshop service manual!

Workshop Service Manual for a Suzuki GSXR 750 96 99, free download from carlsalter.com

www.carlsalter.com

Considerations:

https://www.roadstercycle.com/ (mosfet RR)

www.sebimoto.com

Search results

www.sebimoto.com

GSXR SRAD 1996-1999

eti-fuelcel.com

eti-fuelcel.com

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Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #5 · 13 d ago

Thank you!

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Gearbox Paul

· #6 · 13 d ago

Good stuff. I also have 96 SRAD 750 that I brought back to life. Lots of good info and advice on this site. Show us some pics of the bike!

Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #7 · 13 d ago

3

Thanks, can't wait to get into this. It's got some issues, but nothing too bad, I think. Optically it's nice, with the plastic coveralls. Even those are beat up underneath. Oil leak, bad starter solenoid, front forks may need replaced, carbs cleaned (at least), valve clearances need checking, etc

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Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #8 · 13 d ago

Like Scarlet Johanson without makeup...

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TwistedMister

· #9 · 13 d ago

pull that carb rack and disassemble all the way to jets and soak in yamahalube carb dip, 5-6 hours easy, then blow out with compressed air, all passage ways, soak again, 3 times do this, make sure jets are soaking as well or replace with new,

if you use the old you will have to polish the orifices.. easy enough if you have twine and some polish, coat the twine with polish, thread thru jet, secure both ends of twine the run the jet back and forth on the string spinning it so the orifice gets good and polished, maybe 2 stages of polish, really helps to keep em clean in the future and insure all residue is gone.

then when assembling pay strict attention to float height in that they are all the same and measured correctly, folks here can help with that, then insure all rings are good, gaskets and diaphragms are 100%, slides operate smoothly and not too loose and all needle clips are the same, follow base settings in service manual for clip settings and float height..

then bench sync the butterfly openings, videos on that on yootube, then sync with gauges while running,

check valve lash, timing marks, chain slack so forth, new plugs, new oil and filters she should run very well..

then go over tank, pump and petcock.. cleaning and replacing anything old or worn, crispy.. if tank is solid rust gunk evaporust will get her down to bare metal. some pump parts can be found still, fresh petcocks or rebuild kits, be sure your hoses are new, fuel line and you use good stock clamps for trouble free operation ..

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Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #10 · 13 d ago

Thank you for this! Sounds like a good way to spend 2 or 20 hours!

TwistedMister

· #11 · 12 d ago

only part of it, next you go thru the wiring, celan all connectors and pack with dielectric grease, look for any melting bad connectors, inspect charging system maybe do a direct to battery inline fuse mod and mosfet R/R, Achilles for this bike, happens so much, at eh very least celan and pack with dielectric .. then a well adjusted manual cam chain tensioner should be good to go

Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #12 · 12 d ago

Sorry, you lost me on this complete sentence, " maybe do a direct to battery inline fuse mod and mosfet R/R, Achilles". Can you describe each of these? I am not familiar with any of these...
Thank you for all the tips!

Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #13 · 11 d ago

Went to check the oil and , wow! A lot of fuel in there. I had the same issue with my Wagoneer where the float needle got stuck. I'm guessing that is the problem. I saw the #1 carb was full of fuel, as it was on the kickstand, which seems like an excessive angle.
Am I right the petcock is vacuum activated, no on-off, no prime, etc? My Ninja is vacuum activated but it does have a prime button.
Anything else I should consider?
Thanks
Shawn

Monolith

· #14 · 11 d ago (Edited)

Spduffee said:
Sorry, you lost me on this complete sentence, " maybe do a direct to battery inline fuse mod and mosfet R/R, Achilles". Can you describe each of these? I am not familiar with any of these...
Thank you for all the tips!

https://www.roadstercycle.com/
This link specifically ^

Mosfet rectifier upgrade. The oem ones tend to fry. Link has bundles with the other bits, such as a “in line fuse”. All to prevent cooking your harness/connectors when a rectifier and/or stator decides to cook the main harness. Sucks to deal with cooked/melted/brittle wiring. Go over it rite and never need to fuss with it again (or atleast not for several years).

Most issues in the srad section seem to usually be wiring problems from either butchery or rectifier frying… and carb or fueling issues.

Is good to get them solid anyway

Monolith

· #15 · 11 d ago (Edited)

Spduffee said:
Went to check the oil and , wow! A lot of fuel in there. I had the same issue with my Wagoneer where the float needle got stuck. I'm guessing that is the problem. I saw the #1 carb was full of fuel, as it was on the kickstand, which seems like an excessive angle.
Am I right the petcock is vacuum activated, no on-off, no prime, etc? My Ninja is vacuum activated but it does have a prime button.
Anything else I should consider?
Thanks
Shawn

Correct, just a vac petcock. Cobramadness sells good replacement ones if ya need 👍.

Sometimes the cylinder can land just rite and keep the vac pulled. If carbs are good to go, the carb should just fill and the float/float needle/float needle seat/ float needle seat o-ring,,, should stop fuel from hydrolocking the cylinder,,, meaning, even if the petcock is failed, the carbs (when working correctly) should be able to prevent fuel filing the cylinders.

If confident carbs are good and petcock is good… meaning kickstand lean actually to blame. You could put in a mid line valve onto the fuel line from tank to carbs. Then there’d never be an chance of issue anyway. But can be annoying to fuss with.

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Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #16 · 10 d ago

When I lifted the tank and airbox, this came tumbling out. I looked for three ports missing something, but couldn't see anything needing a hose. Can anyone please describe where these go?

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TwistedMister

· #17 · 10 d ago

the single plugs into the front of the air box then the 2 plug into the top of the carbs, there are Tee's between carbs 1 and 2 and 3 and 4, or should be, check its all tight and good, not cracked up so forth, sealed well, it will run crappy if not when ram air tubes are connected ..

Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #18 · 10 d ago

Oh, I think I saw those two nubs, and they weren't looking good at all. I'll take a look later on. Thank you for the info!

Spduffee

Discussion Starter · #19 · 10 d ago

Yeah, they were hosed. I was able to create a makeshift solution. I'll take a look at CMSNL for part numbers.
Is there a writeup anywhere explaining the SRAD carbs and how they work? They are so different than any I have worked on. Then again, all the other bikes are from the 80's, except the '93 750SS. The reason I assumed it was a FI conversion was because of the sensor on the right hand side and the way the bowls are connected with what looks like a fuel rail. Weird - to me....
Found that my petcock leaks. That may be why fuel was pooled in the #1 cylinder (collecting in the lowest point in an exaggerated kickstand lean). I can get a new one cheaper than rebuilding.

Reactions: 1

TwistedMister

· #20 · 8 d ago

they equalize the pressure in the float bowls, something to do with the ram air, if you remove the ram air tubes them you can remove that hose set up, if you run ram air you need those, haven't really looked at the engineering but if you find a blueprint schematic of the carb I am sure you can work out whats going on..

there was a guy who recently found a solution for the Tee's using a different style, how they work is yet to be see but he just had to shave off the end of the single side and they fit, they were white ai thought? maybe the plumbing area of home dep? that thread shouldn't be too far down the SRAD section maybe 2nd page or so, it was just a week or so ago, he couldn't find any good new ones so he makeshifted em.. looked like a good set up, if its water plumbing then they should take heat for hot water so..

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