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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I just posted my intro over on the introduction page. I'm fixing up a 1994 GSXR 750 and did an engine swap. Rewiring the bike I had this problem, wouldn't turn. I looked at the wiring diagram and starter schematic and found the culprit, the side stand switch had been removed but not properly bypassed. I trimmed the wire and put a wire nut on just to test it out for a little. Succes. The bike will turn with the clutch pulled in and the headlights disconnected. This is where it gets weird. If I plug in the headlights, the bike won't turn over and the side stand diode gets hotter then heck. I unplugged them, cranks. Plugged them, doesn't crank. I attempted to bipass the diode by cutting the orange/black wire (from kill switch) and wiring it directly to its "switch" wire which on this bike is orange/yellow. I removed the diode, and the instruments wouldn't light up. Popped the diode back on and they lit up immediately. The engine cranks so I know my kill switch to side stand relay bipass worked. So now that I've explained to you as much as possible what's going on, here are my questions!

1) why the heck do the headlights have any influence on the side stand diode

2) what steps do I have to take to completely bipass the side stand relay?

3) with that diode removed, all thatcurrent from the lights (which is why I think it's getting hot) is going to go somewhere. What do I have to do to make it safe and ground that out?

Thanks in advance! Any help would be much much appreciated. Wiring diagrams for the bike can be found with a really quick google search.

Best regards,
Erik
 

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Discussion Starter #2
All,

Just a quick update if you're curious. I got it figured out. I kept thinking about the problem and why the diode would heat up, caused by excessive current going through it. Because the bike still turns on I know it's still good. So excess current was coming from the light circuit, so where did that circuit ground? The nuetral switch, one of the input wires into the diode. So all this current is going through this diode because of the neutral switch input. I had an extra engine ground wire from the seized engine I took off the bike, so I chopped that, connected the neutral switch to the frame and vuala! It turns. I spent the rest of the night getting the wiring back to where it should be and tomorrow I'm going to get some push to lock connectors to ensure the wires I'm going to be splicing remain in solid contact when I'm riding the bike. Glad I got that figured out! I'm going to turn this thread into effectively a build thread and will upload some pictures soon enough. Now to throw the carbs and tank back on and see if she'll catch and run! If so then the only thing stopping me from riding are new front brake calipers and tires!!

Erik
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I got the bike running but there's a problem. I was tightening up an airbox clamp when all of a sudden the Phillips head attachment I wasn't using fell down...but never hit the ground. I finger effed the bike for an hour and used a light and magnet to try and find this think. I felt it once but think I pushed it too far back to get without removing the carbs and airbox. I checked all the danger areas and know it couldn't have fallen into the moving part of the alternator as the holes are much to small thank goodness. I might just take this as a loss And move on with my life. Any opinions on this? Let me know if this is more dangerous than I think it is.

Best regards,
Erik
 
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