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Discussion Starter #1
Gawd, I'm torn between telling you to care for it like a classic and writing reams on hopups. Bottom line, with a '90, keep all the stock shit you remove, it'll be worth shitloads more when you flog if you've got the stuff carefully put away...and I mean everything!

Unless your bike has really gentle usage, the shock will be pffffftt, especially for high perf use. If you can go the Race Tech route, you'll save a bundle, just ship the shit to them to have the work done. Also, at 10-15% to all their recommended spring rates, or else lie about your weight, since they tend to really fuck up on the rating. My 210lb bud got .78kg fork springs off them for his TLS and can't get proper sag without winding it all the way down....which brings me to another suggestion...he's gone to Lindemann Enterprises (LE) now, since they seem to have their shit more totally together. Shit I'm rambling...bear with me.

My advice, if you've got the $$$: buy a decent aftermarket shock, from Fox on up. Let LE do the front forks. If you do buy a new shock, ensure that the valving is modd'd to match your weight and the spring rate that you'll have on it.

Generally speaking, a 4-2-1 pipe will deliver somewhat better midrange than a 4-1. Buy a pipe that has stainless headers, NOT nickle or chrome or any other plating. The non-stainless will rot eventually. Stay away from Vance and Hines, unless you need an anchor for your Boston Whaler. Go up 3 teeth on the rear sprocket when you change the entire shitload as a group. While at it, check that the cush rubbers aren't cracking with age or broken.

Look for the fuel, vacuum and breather hoses under your tank to be drying out and in need of replacement plus zip-tying.

Find a dyno tuner somewhere and have him adjust your carbs to fit your new pipe system.

It never ends, but that's a fair chunk of $$$ right there. Enjoy


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Fat Bastard's bike: '93 GSXR1100wp CDN version w/ thoroughly ridiculous # of mods :)
 

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I just got my hands on a bone-stock 1990 750. Of course I want to put a pipe and jet kit on it... what is the best set-up for midrange power?
Also, what about suspension? Would you guys recommend the race tech emulators/springs?
the bike has 9k miles on it. The rear shock is fine, but should I go ahead and rebuild/replace it?

I have not even picked the bike up yet, but I'm already cooking up ideas... the plan is to use the bike for track days and some mountain road thrashing.

thanks,
Tim
a new guy

saved

[ 10-21-2002, 08:59 PM: Message edited by: Simon Orttan ]
 

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bcjohn,why don't you like v&h systems?
I have a v&h carbon fibre exhaust on my 1100 and it is fine.

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FB is correct-amundo. I have a '91 750 which is identical to yours with the exception of inverted forks and more weight. I went with a big-bore kit (no replacement for displacement) for more mid-range torque. I'm running JE pistons good for 955cc, stock cams, stock carbs, a port "clean-up" a blend valve job by Rohm Performance Machine in Yuba City, CA (530) 674-9123, a Stage III Dynojet kit and K&N Pod-style filters. The whole setup was dyno'd at RPM to be good for 124.3 horsies, but the good part is that the motor makes over 60 ft-lbs of torque from 6000 rpm all the way up. The thing flat rips. Later, I added an RPM adjustable ignition trigger (some call it an "advancer" and DON'T buy one from Factory, they're an anybody's guess fixed advance which may or may not be what your motor needs. The RPM model lets you vary the advance in accordance with what changes make more power on a dyno - 70 bucks and the cheapest 7-8 horses you'll ever buy). I bought a Yosh Duplex off the internet for 200 bucks. I bought a Fox Twin-Clicker off the internet from a racer who weighs the same as me for 250 bucks. I had the forks re-valved and re-built with new(95kg/mm) springs at Lindemann Engineering. LE is a bunch of pros. Race Tech makes nice cartridge emulators, but they're not as sharp as LE if you've already got a cartridge fork (which you do). I set the static sag at 35mm on both ends and the thing is just amazingly well balanced. Throw in the new-found torque from my "sleeper" 955 mill, and you have a bike that is reborn. I thought the new beans might make the bike a handful, but the exact opposite is true: it is easier to ride now that power is more accessible. Due to the fact that I retained the stock CV carbs and cams, the bike starts in cold weather, idles, and carburate just like stock. It's manners haven't changed a whit. And IT'S MINE. I BUILT IT and it'll smoke 900RRs and 929s; it'll run with R1s, but needs cams and flat-slides before it'll slap 'em around. Enjoy.

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Hi all,
i'm from australia and I own a 1990 gsxr750l.
i am interested in getting my bike prepped for drag racing although I still ride my bike on the street. I'm not interested in going real quick, all in all i'm hoping for a high 10 sec pass. (over the 1/4)
so far, the bike is stock except k&n pod inside the stock airbox. I have heard my bike should be good for a 11.5 sec 1/4 so I'll need to find some power someelse. I've dynoed it and it has 94hp at the rear.
What else should I do?

Beeno- could you e-mail me?
[email protected]

"Thank god Harley Davidson doesn't make aeroplanes!"



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Discussion Starter #6
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kiwi:
bcjohn,why don't you like v&h systems?
I have a v&h carbon fibre exhaust on my 1100 and it is fine.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Maybe my bitching is out of date, or the carbon fibre one is significantly lighter. During on of the major comparo articles, the V&H pipe weighed exactly the same as stock and if memory serves me made slightly less power. Ergo my bitching. The comparos didn't do Carbon or Ti, just aluminum, for an equal playing field. So based on that, I figured a guy would be putting out a fair chunk of change for essentially nothing.

Now if your carbon can is connected to a stainless header system, it HAS to be better and lighter than stock. If you have any info on this stuff, please email me, 'cause I don't like 'preaching' old faults if they've fixed them


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Fat Bastard's bike: '93 GSXR1100wp CDN version w/ thoroughly ridiculous # of mods :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Beeno:
FB is correct-amundo. I have a '91 750 which is identical to yours with the exception of inverted forks and more weight. I went with a big-bore kit (no replacement for displacement) for more mid-range torque. I'm running JE pistons good for 955cc, stock cams, stock carbs, a port "clean-up" a blend valve job by Rohm Performance Machine in Yuba City, CA (530) 674-9123, a Stage III Dynojet kit and K&N Pod-style filters. The whole setup was dyno'd at RPM to be good for 124.3 horsies, but the good part is that the motor makes over 60 ft-lbs of torque from 6000 rpm all the way up. The thing flat rips. Later, I added an RPM adjustable ignition trigger (some call it an "advancer" and DON'T buy one from Factory, they're an anybody's guess fixed advance which may or may not be what your motor needs. The RPM model lets you vary the advance in accordance with what changes make more power on a dyno - 70 bucks and the cheapest 7-8 horses you'll ever buy). I bought a Yosh Duplex off the internet for 200 bucks. I bought a Fox Twin-Clicker off the internet from a racer who weighs the same as me for 250 bucks. I had the forks re-valved and re-built with new(95kg/mm) springs at Lindemann Engineering. LE is a bunch of pros. Race Tech makes nice cartridge emulators, but they're not as sharp as LE if you've already got a cartridge fork (which you do). I set the static sag at 35mm on both ends and the thing is just amazingly well balanced. Throw in the new-found torque from my "sleeper" 955 mill, and you have a bike that is reborn. I thought the new beans might make the bike a handful, but the exact opposite is true: it is easier to ride now that power is more accessible. Due to the fact that I retained the stock CV carbs and cams, the bike starts in cold weather, idles, and carburate just like stock. It's manners haven't changed a whit. And IT'S MINE. I BUILT IT and it'll smoke 900RRs and 929s; it'll run with R1s, but needs cams and flat-slides before it'll slap 'em around. Enjoy.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ahhhh, poetry man!! Yeah, funny how Race Tech makes good shit, but just misses the aim when it comes to nailing down the package. I've found that LE and White Bros way in front when it comes to real world advice. PPS was fucking great when it came to upgrading/redoing my '93 Ohlins shock. Also had a Fox on my GS500 - VERY NICE SHOCK!

FYI: a more heavy duty triple clamp on the front KILLS the heavy break shudder. The mags rattle on about how its the weak frame; fuck that, the headseat is built like a brick shithouse. After I redid the triples, NO more shudder, even under emergency do or die shit.

Keep the faith on the double cradle GSXRS!!!

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Fat Bastard's bike: '93 GSXR1100wp CDN version w/ thoroughly ridiculous # of mods :)
 

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FB,
You're not overweight; you're just undertall.

Talk to me about these triple clamps. Which ones are you referring to specifically? The top or the bottom? I have considered picking up an upper triple from an 1100 in order to raise my bars an inch or so, but have seen no need to change out the triples for any other reason.

Have no fear, Large One, I intend to keep the Oil-Cooled, Double Cradle Faith as it is simply too much fun to surprise dudes who's total knowledge of motorcycles consists of illusions about CBR-900s being fast.

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Discussion Starter #9
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Beeno:
FB,
You're not overweight; you're just undertall.

Talk to me about these triple clamps. Which ones are you referring to specifically? The top or the bottom? I have considered picking up an upper triple from an 1100 in order to raise my bars an inch or so, but have seen no need to change out the triples for any other reason.

Have no fear, Large One, I intend to keep the Oil-Cooled, Double Cradle Faith as it is simply too much fun to surprise dudes who's total knowledge of motorcycles consists of illusions about CBR-900s being fast.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I changed my lower triples from 1/2 assed two bolt to muy macho three bolt billet. Also redid the uppers, but that does more for looks than strength. Have a peek in the water cooled section (mine's a 93), I've got my pictures spread over three posts. I always check oilcooled and water cooled cause I'm a double cradle fanatic. Can't kill them unless you WANT to.

I don't think the upper triple change would make any diff (re raising your bars), but you might compare stock vs stock at the wreckers. If you could do a swap, the parts shouldn't cost dickall.

All the best! By the way, I really need to be 6'4", not 6'1"...no any good body-stretching devices. Fuckit, then I wouldn't be able to squeeze behind the screen


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Fat Bastard's bike: '93 GSXR1100wp CDN version w/ thoroughly ridiculous # of mods :)
 

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Whiule you guys are talking about triples...
I kinda want to put riser bars on the bike (1990 750), so I need uppers that have clamps. Which ones will fit? Bandit 1200?
And if I do fit these clamps, will there still be room underneath for clip-ons?

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Discussion Starter #11
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 13kft:
Whiule you guys are talking about triples...
I kinda want to put riser bars on the bike (1990 750), so I need uppers that have clamps. Which ones will fit? Bandit 1200?
And if I do fit these clamps, will there still be room underneath for clip-ons?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not sure if I'm reading you correctly, but try Heli-bars. They fit in the same clipon position but raise the bar height. Not to mention they are well made. Got them on my 93. Have a boo through the posts on water cooled, should be buried in post 1,2 or 3.


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Fat Bastard's bike: '93 GSXR1100wp CDN version w/ thoroughly ridiculous # of mods :)
 
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