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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have owned this bike for 20 years. I bought it from a friend and co-worker. At the time I had not rode on the street for about 15 years and I wanted to get back in. My ex-wife, sounds stereotypical, hated sports bike. She was from a Harley family, that is all I'm going to say about that. I remember looking at it and thinking all of the safety wired fasteners were really cool since I worked on Uncle Sam's helicopters at the time. On top of that, I really loved the first and second generation Gixxers. When my friend told me he was thinking of selling so he could buy a Busa, I jumped at the chance. In hindsight, I should have steered clear. Upon getting it home, I noticed that some of the fairing hardware was incorrect and some of it was missing. I proceeded to spend over $100 in 2001 dollars to get the right hardware from Suzuki. It was during this time with all the body work off that I started to notice things. Most of the body work had been repaired, and not very well. The rubber mounts at the rear of the tank and the rear side cowling grommets were MIA. The 180mm rear tire was mounted on the original 4.5-inch rim and was severely pinched. Yeap, it was a little bike of horrors. Over the years I have corrected most of the problems except the body work and a couple of other problems. So, after collecting parts for four years I have embarked on an ambitious project to go through the whole bike and correct most of the remain wrongs as well as go through the suspention.
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Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Automotive lighting
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Looks like you have a pretty solid bike to start with. What do you plan to do with the bike body wise? Are you in need of anything? Rebuilding a bike is pretty satisfying work. I look forward to the updates. BTW, I envy your clean and organized garage!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like you have a pretty solid bike to start with. What do you plan to do with the bike body wise? Are you in need of anything? Rebuilding a bike is pretty satisfying work. I look forward to the updates. BTW, I envy your clean and organized garage!
The body work will probably be my biggest challenge. My bike was originally two shades of blue and white which I think is code 9SR. I found two decent rear side panels and a nice solo tail cowl that are the original color on eBay. I'm still looking for a head light fairing in the original blue and white. There was one on eBay recently, but I took too long to decide and somebody else picked it up. Even though I already have a very nice headlight fairing that is white and red, I want a blue and white one to help get the blue on the tank laid out correctly. Pictures help but having the real thing would be even better.
 

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From your pictures, it looks like you have an excellent bike to start with. If bodywork is your only issue, that truly is minor when considering you are restoring a 30+ year old machine. Professional body restorers / painters will cost a minimum of a few thousand (USD), final figure depending on the painter, amount of work needed, and how much you do yourself. I mean this to be encouraging ... if you are super concerned with cost, you are in the wrong hobby. You have a solid bike to start with and spending the money to fix it right is well spent, if nothing but for self-satisfaction (thats what I tell myself anyway...).

But looking at your garage, I am sure I am not telling you something you don't know already.
 

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Welcome to the forum. That bike is sweet!! I agree with pretty and well executed lockwire as I learned to lockwire nuclear submarine parts aboard the boats, and have lockwired my refurbished basket case, a1996 GSXR 1100 (didn't even get the basket 😊) all lock wired up pretty for the track. It took over a year to get parts and redo all kinds of things and still have a few things I'd like to redo like finding a new rear suspension. It's worth it. This forum is wonderful.
Nice bike you have!
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
From your pictures, it looks like you have an excellent bike to start with. If bodywork is your only issue, that truly is minor when considering you are restoring a 30+ year old machine. Professional body restorers / painters will cost a minimum of a few thousand (USD), final figure depending on the painter, amount of work needed, and how much you do yourself. I mean this to be encouraging ... if you are super concerned with cost, you are in the wrong hobby. You have a solid bike to start with and spending the money to fix it right is well spent, if nothing but for self-satisfaction (thats what I tell myself anyway...).

But looking at your garage, I am sure I am not telling you something you don't know already.
Hear you about the cost of the hobby. I've been collecting part for five years and have not added up the receipts either because I am scared or don't really care. I suspect I'm somewhere in the middle. This month alone I've spent about $400 in mostly just hardware and I'm not even halfway through my list. I guess the biggest issue with the body work is if I do farm it out is finding someone in my neck of the woods to do it and do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did a 5.5. inch rim conversion about ten years ago. One of the parts I thought I didn't have to change was the rear caliper torque link for whatever reason back then. I discovered that was a mistake when I took a really good look at it. With the original K torque link, there was only 0.025 (0.64 mm) at the closest point between the tire and the link. Luckly, I found a 1990 torque link on eBay. There is a difference in that the 1990 link has a slight offset that gives 0.115 (2.92 mm) clearance.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The chain to tire clearance was good. Of course, you need the corresponding sprocket carrier to match the 5.5" rim with six isolators, but no problems on that side.
 

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The chain to tire clearance was good. Of course, you need the corresponding sprocket carrier to match the 5.5" rim with six isolators, but no problems on that side.
Yes exactly. Not familiar with 2nd gen 750's, but depending on the sprocket carrier used, you may need to "bush out" (move out with a longer spacer) the front sprocket on the output shaft to keep the drive chain in alignment with the rear sprocket... and be careful there is enough clearance between the "bushed out" front sprocket and the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder back cover...don't ask me how I know...
 
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